ftpiercecracker1

Forgive me master, but i must interject :bowdown: . I recently, as in last week, put a 93 ZJ into my 89 MJ. Everything worked, EXCEPT the pilot bearing, neither the ZJ or MJ pilot bearing worked. ZJ had the wrong ID to work with the AX-15 snout and MJ bearing had the wrong OD to fit in the ZJ crank. I had to take the MJ bearing with the proper ID and grind the OD until it fit in the ZJ crank.

battery terminal looks alright. it is tight. ill check the other end tonight. I'm not sure how old the ground from the battery is thou. Looking does nothing, you have to physically remove the ground cable and thoroghly clean both contact points, I would HIGHLY recommend getting some new battery clamps as well. There are several other grounding locations to be aware of as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Look for "ground refresh". The more i have come to know my MJ the more i have come to relize 90% of all the problems i have had have been ground related.

Had to use a shovel to dig this up again, :laughin: http://comancheclub.com/topic/34536-diy-e-brake-fix/

Well said.

Not really, i have a writeup in the DIY section on how to rebuild the E-brake. Check it out, it may give you an idea that will work in a pinch. Its kinda labor intensive but once you do it, its pretty much fixed for good.

can't believe i didnt think of that. :doh:

Small block 350 with a 700cfm holley carb :D , if you don't want to fool with electronics or have a/c. If you just want the simplest drop and go i think you already know another 4.0 is the way to go. Any 4.0 will work, some just require a little modification in other ares. For simplicity sake don't mess with your current electronics, when its running right Renix is pretty darn good management system and if you go changing the engine harness you will have to change the dash harness, which also means changing the dash itself. Cooling system is completely up to you, either closed or open can be done fairly easily, regardless of year. FYI I just finished putting a junkyard 93 ZJ 4.0 into my 89 MJ, runs great! Still using the Renix and the closed cooling systems. The only problem i had was the pilot bearing, the one for the ZJ had the wrong ID for the transmission snout and the one for my MJ had the wrong OD to fit in the ZJ block. Other than that it was strictly a bolt on afair. :thumbsup:

Smart a$$. :P

No gauges, fuel pump not priming, turning over intermittently and all of it in a very brief period of time. Sounds to me like a faulty battery ground. How old is the cable? When was the last time you refreshed the terminal clamps and cleaned the studs? You would not believe the kind of havoc a slightly loose or corroded battery terminal can cause.

If you had dremmeld (spelling?) out a little more on the TPS you could have prevented from haveing to grind on what looks to be a nice new TB. :( Image Not Found I hope it works out for you as well as it has for me. :) BTW you don't have any specs on that stroker of yours do you?

Most of what you got is right, (ANY 4.0 head is a direct bolt on for ANY 4.0 block) except for the TB. Unless you use the old renix intake or you make your own custom adapter you will have to use the HO throttle body, bored out is simply up to you. The Renix TPS has to be adapted to the HO throttle body, its actually quite easy and cheap if you use my adapter, check the DIY section. And as for the power steering according to Hornbrod "96+ pump bracketry, idler pulley" should be a direct bolt on, even with the 99 intake and Renix block. This is your shopping list. . . 7120 cast head. (look for one with a drilled and tapped temp sender in the far right hand corner) 99+ intake manifold (looks like a squid or a horseshoe) Renix Header (cause its the only one with an O2 bung, i think) 63mm Bored out HO Throttle body (look up Leigh Performance Machine) TPS adapter (Hesco has one for $150 :eek: Or you can make one of mine for about a $1.00, your choice ;) ) 96+ power steering pump, bracketry, and idler pulley (not sure if it matters XJ, WJ, ZJ) Ftpiercecracker

FYI The ZJ motor is running great with the only problem having been the pilot bearing fitment. Something to keep in mind, since this engine used the newer (7120) head I had to use the newer HO intake and TB, therefore also a TPS adapter, but i was prepared for this a long time ahead. Either way if you are considering pulling a junkyard engine i hope this will give you some encouragement. :thumbsup:

Look for the TPS adjustment. It gives a way to test it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Understatement of the century right there. :eek: My eyes literally watered from the shiny. Fully restored, depending on what extras it has i would say 10K max as for the other on 6500 max, and thats being generous. they are both still amazing vehicles. :drool:

I am assuming that when that particular component does become open the alternator will no longer charge at all?

With the truck running the battery reads a steady 14 or so volts, but that darn humming is going to drive me insane. :fs1:

yup.

If i am not mistaken the ignition switch is what you put your key into, in the column.

To revive this topic, does this mean my alternator is bus, can it be repaired? I have tested it with my multimeter and its still putting out plenty of juice. Soo :dunno:

No, thats a vacuum switch for the CAD and whatnot. Talkin about this right.

I've actually already downloaded and printed that entire troubleshooting manual, its sitting next to me in a three ring binder right now. But it doesnt have near the detail i need and i have already found discrepancies between my trucks wiring and the 88 manual.

Looks great man. :thumbsup: What paint did you use for the bay and fender wells? DId you do much prep?

:laughin: What a joke. :shake:

Perfect. 8)

Thanks jim, sincerely Ftpiercecracker P.S. In you electrical manual does it have full diagrams? What i mean by that is, does it give wire by wire illustrations for every plug as to where they go? I have had one hell of a time trying to figure out how my front headlight harness is being grounded. I need to know where each individual wire in the C102 plug goes and my current "electrical" manual is about as helpful as a retard humping a doorknob. All it shows is how the power wire comes in, splits to each bulb, exits and goes to ground (already disconnected). I think this is because its only a troubleshooting manual, and its for an 88.