ftpiercecracker1

This is the one and only good i have heard for keeping the heater valve. That being said i have looong since deleted mine and havent looked back. A/C and heat both still work excellent. Besides after 97 the heater valve was axed all together. Snag a set of 97+ cherokee heater hoses and the deleting process is a snap.

Or you could dump the retarded factory switch, fab/weld a little bracket onto the pedal assembly and use a generic/dime-a-dozen/every auto parts store, chevy brake switch. EDIT: trying to copy pics from google, but its saying i am not allowed to use this "image extension on this community" :dunno: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=502957&d=1254774180 http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/PrAAAOSwAF5UaUHk/$_35.JPG

1st gear and 4 low, my truck becomes 99% immobile even on the steepest of hills.

Like mjeff said, thanks for getting back with us. So glad you found the issue. Man what a PITA that must have been to track down.

The front looks weird as hell, but from the side it isnt so bad.

Please please please, let us know how the install goes. I am VERY interested in doing this myself. This is my plan. . . Volvo LSD (4.10s) + a ford 8.8 (LSD, disc brakes, 4.10s) = super cheap super capable offroad combination.

Indeed these are mechanical. Torsen design, no friction discs. I am not familiar with their durability/toughness but after doing several hours of research and watching some videos i must say i am deeply intrigued with how they work. They are hella complicated. Unlike a typical LSD that utilizes springs to apply pressure at all times and begins to slip as greater torque is applied, the torsion design acts as a fully open diff under normal driving conditions and "locks" once significant slippage occurs on one side or the other. I think this design is really really awesome, for the simple fact that some engineer figured out a way to divert power from a slipping tire to a tire with traction using only mechanical principles.

Thanks man that helps a lot. :thumbsup: Ya, i was totally lost there for a bit, but i now understand completely. I definitely have a couple of options to consider. 1. modify my current tank 2. buy new tank without baffle 3. Pray i find a decent MJ assembly in a junkyard I also thought about buying a plastic dakota tank. No matter which option i go with i am also going to use this opportunity to try and setup a working fuel gauge. Thanks for everything buckwheat.

How in the heck did you add a baffle? If it requires cutting the tank open i might as well stick with the tank i have and cut into it to remove/move my baffle. I did not understand what you were talking about at the end of your post. What have you been running for 500 miles with no problems?

Sooooo does that mean they make an mj/xj tank without the baffle? If so, that would be the permanent solution.

Interesting. The JB weld hasnt dissolved or anything like that, its just soft. Like it never fully cured. I can still twist the nipple ( :brows:) the same amount as i could before applying the JB. I figured that since i am still leaking fuel in the general area it had to be the JB weld, but maybe not. Either way I am still leaking fuel. Its the factory assembly and very rusty so the nipple breaking was just the tipping point i needed to justify replacing it. Thanks for the offer buckwheat, i will consider it. As far as the XJ assembly goes, will it not work because of the baffle in the tank? I put in a new spectra tank a year or so ago, but it has the baffle in the bottom. Why does it matter that its the mirror image of the MJ assembly? What's the deal? I dug this photo up comparing the two side by side.

Is fuel actually spitting out while you are trying to fill up or are you talking about not being able to tell when the tank is full and having overflow problems? If it is the first one, i would bet the fill hose is kinked or the breather hose is kinked/clogged. If it is the second, you will just have to listen more closely like reubj said. Thats about all you can do.

One of the nipples coming out of the fuel tank has cracked all the way around its base and has started to leak quite a bit. I tried to remedy the problem with a healthy slathering of JB weld, which has held up admirably, but its obvious JB and gas don't get along. I need to know if i can get an ordinary Cherokee fuel pump assembly to replace mine. Any problems with the wiring or fitment? The tank is an aftermarket Spectra brand 18 gallon unit i bought off RockAuto a few years back. Thanks, FPC.

:popcorn:

The problem you are experiencing is identical to mine in almost every way. My problem turned out to be a failing TPS sensor, but before you go replacing anything do this. The next time you start your truck and it is idling normally, (850 rpm or so) pop the hood and disconnect the IAC valve. Then drive the truck like that for a day or so. If the stalling/high idle after restart goes away replace the TPS. I would also take the time to thoroughly clean the IAC and throttle body.

Auto or manual?

Your off to a good start giving us the year, but we need to know what motor you have. (4.0, 2.5, 2.8) What does it do when you turn the key? Any clicking or just dead silence? What leads you to believe the fuel pump quit entirely?

Havent done that yet. I will have to get a clamp to hold one lead on the negative terminal to free up a hand to shake the harness. I remember digging into the harness a long time ago to find the crimp you mention in the instructions, but i don't remember if i ever did anything about it.

Yes. Connecting one lead to the B terminal of the TPS connector (engine side) and the other lead directly to battery negative resulted in .8ohms.

B terminal

The printed circuit board on the back of the cluster could have a burnt copper trace or the plug on the back might not be making a good connection or the cluster might have a bad ground. Just because a fuse looks good doesnt mean it actually is and even if you know for 100% fact the fuse is good, the little pincers that hold the fuse maybe broken or loose. I have had this exact thing happen to me on several occasions. Replaced fuse multiple times, checked over every inch of wire loom, only to discover the little fuse holders were loose. Tighten/replace them and everything worked perfect again. It would be very very unlikely if not impossible for all the cluster lights to be burned out, i have never encountered even a single burnt bulb. I would look closely at the fuse holders, check to see if you have 12v on one side of the fuse, and pull the cluster and check the PCB for any broken traces.

Well, there is not much more to say other than when your right your right. I bought the best quality TPS i could find, (NAPA brand), installed/adjusted per your (Cruiser) guidelines and she is as right as rain. No high idle, no stalling, nada. She runs and idles smooth as butter. Although i still can't stand not knowing why the TPS caused the problems. In the instructions it says to turn your key to the 'ON' position when setting up the TPS. I got nothing from any of the wires with the key in the 'ON' position, i had to have the key in the 'RUN' position before any juice got to the TPS. I was able to adjust everything all the same, obviously, this was just a small detail that caught my attention. Also the resistance to battery negative was .8 ohms.

Not sure on this, I think the under hood light has a two port plug connector (black and red wires), that's what I found when I pulled the retractable Ford under hood light from another remix xj. Was there ever another under hood light option (smaller, non-retractable)? Mine currently does not have a light, I guess this could be it... Roger roger, at least thats one possible option we can eliminate.

I think that might have been for an under hood light.

I am intrigued by any motor swap ideas/project, but i seriously thought your computer had glitched and spat out some random line of characters the first time i read your opening post. I am afraid i will be of no help, but i will be watching. :popcorn: