relyt120

no matter what if you are starting with something not auto 4x4 you will need a transfer case and transmission from auto 4x4...so the real question is front axle swap or tb and wiring swap. I say go for an auto and swap in 4x4 to avoid having to mess with wiring . You can get the axle ready to go outside the vehicle and still drive it but the wiring and stuff takes you out if commission till its finished.

Make sure the vacuum line at the back of the Valve cover isnt collapsing or kinking. had a similar issue like this but not exactly the same, easy to check though so worth a shot.

Congrats on the MJ! Unfortunately, you will have a hard time finding a d35 for the front, d35 is for out back. You want a d30

Depending o the location and when I may be able to meet up. My truck is no trail rig so may just have to kick back a few and watch :thumbsup:

You can usually tell if the fuse box is ruined by if the pins are backed out or your fuses are melted from the fluid.

been having issues with my aux temp gauge and my switches for locks/windows. I didnt wire them very well the first time so i pulled out the wiring and am redoing most of it. Also relocating the bank of relays from under the dash to under the hood... Tired of having to mess with wires under the dash. Not sure if i ever uploaded anything about the relay bank but its six relays where each set of 2 controls something (left door window, right door window, locks) and I have simple dpdt and spdt switches in the dash with a gauge panel that control them by sending a ground signal. I originally had a couple of polarity reversing switches but I rewired it so my remote start module could control the locks via ground and so i could use smaller switches to fit the gauge panel. Ill snap some pics when I get everything back together.

If you want a 2000 xj dash you will need to use ALL of the 2000 XJ wiring. NONE of the MJ wiring will work with it.

can't tell you how much I wanted it, if it had a title it would have been mine cause I was the first to contact him.

White 1988 2.5L 4 speed 4x4 MJ PIONEER Nashville TN Was for sale on Craigslist for $500, talked to him about it but no title, no running since parked 3 years ago, and no place to put it so someone else got it before I could get my ducks in a row...Better than a JY. seller description: "jeep Comanche 4 cylinder 4 speed 4x4 long bed used to run bought as a off road project to many projects good motor with reworked head no title 500 XXXXXXXXXX call or text" These are the pics seller sent me but I didnt save the actual Ad pictures. /uploads/archive/e5bc68b207a6a448e4505ea7d6d332ff/d5e286dc53db0f97d04820856f813738.jpg /uploads/archive/e5bc68b207a6a448e4505ea7d6d332ff/2ab39d743b6aca1892bee22c8838e269.jpg /uploads/archive/e5bc68b207a6a448e4505ea7d6d332ff/9079d89b03a57586d5cd66b18fa6b3ac.jpg /uploads/archive/e5bc68b207a6a448e4505ea7d6d332ff/297d14e0748a73633d429c3d3074c5b2.jpg I was able to recover one of the ad images from my browsers cache: /uploads/archive/e5bc68b207a6a448e4505ea7d6d332ff/8c5f71be3d0278944ee64a582def6fd3.jpg I really believe this thing will clean up good, betting most of the grime on it would come right off with a good pressure washing!

WIth MT Springs and a custom trailer axle! is that a factory tube bumper?? :eek:

:popcorn:

So ever since I got this truck it had an injector leak, which the PO also mentioned when I got it. I chased down o rings after orings trying to get it to stop leaking at the rail. Once I got all those replaced I realized that it was leaking from the injectors themselves(original ones) which I now know is fairly common Decided to look around the JY for replacements and ended up getting the Volvo 735s. They fit snugly and I was super excited to see if they cured my leak. I had removed the battery to help my aunt move her Isuzu with a bad alternator to get it fixed so at this point there was no battery in the truck. I quickly went to put the battery in to check for leaks and I managed to put the damn thing in backwards. Big spark show and a mild heart attack later I was able to get the thing disconnected and put in correctly. Managed to get the truck to run for a minute or two..long enough to see that there was no fuel leaking from the rail or the injectors :banana: Then I shut it off and tried to start it again and nothing happened :fs1: I knew it had to be because of the battery faux-pa So I followed everyone's advice and replaced the starter switch. No help...upgraded the grounds....no help...replaced the batter terminals...no help....replaced the starter relay...nothing..swapped the ECU, nothing again it turns out I had re-installed the starter switch a little too far back on the column so the new switch wasn't able to full function! Got that corrected and now I can start it from the key again and the leak is still gone. :thumbsup: Few new issues that may or may not be due to the battery issue: No tach No volt gauge Cut off twice while driving, able to get going again without getting out of truck Next steps: New battery Cables, install new battery. I really want to replace the fuse box since it still has jumpers for a few of the things to work and may be part of the current issues I want to redo the relays and fuse links like kabowaba did Patch floor, still has the huge holes in it but i have covered it with primer and rust reformer after grinding the crap out of it Get the cab painted red, got quote for only $300 from my paint guy. I'm going to go Colorado red. Install the swank Maroon interior I recently picked up from the JY Get a set of red doors and a red hood Perhaps open cooling swap. It hasnt been over heating but then again I don't have reliable gauges and havent driven it in a long time. The pressure bottle hisses after every drive so I know its leaking. Wheels/Tires Oh yeah I also picked up a set of 4 xj ten hole rims for only $40. I wanted the ones with the rivet ring around them but these are close and were to cheap to pass up. They need some work but I think they will be decent after a good cleaning and polishing. Will install them once all of the above is done and I have the $$$ for new (or lightly used) tires.

I went ahead and swapped out the starter switch again and made sure to test it each step of the way. I think I had it sitting a little too far back on the column, but now it works! I through some gas in the old guy and took him for a spin. A few things I noticed: Tach not working Volt gauge not working still Cut off twice, once while I was backing up and once while I was on a good incline. I havent put the new battery in so i think it may be something to do with the battery or cables (which I havent replaced yet either) The reason I think that is because my radio presets went away after the cut offs. Other than that though it starts up even better than before this whole thing happened and runs good! Thanks for everyone's help! Any ideas on the remaining issues greatly appreciated!

So i went to the JY and got an ECU and swapped it in. No change. I also picked up another ignition switch from the same truck. It had recently been replaced so I got another good as new part for $2.50 To test the starter relay I went ahead and provided 12v directly to the ign terminal on the relay and with the key in the ON position it started right up. Before I Change the ignition switch again, Does anyone know if there is something between the ignition switch and the starter relay I should check?

i used a voltmeter to check for 12 on both sides of the link.

okay guys. So I checked the fusable links but they all seem to check out. Hoe many are there exactly? I mean I checked all the ones I could find but maybe I'm missing one. Going to take some time today to mess with it and maybe drop by the jy and grab an ecu and maybe even a fuse box.

:yes:fancy, looks like mine was glued on at some point too, it works fine but the glue had leaked out a bit making it a bit obvious. I look for column shift auto shifters all the time but never found anything I like.

one of the best threads to re-read in its entirety :bowdown:

stick your hand up through the hole in the floor and unlock it that way :thumbsup:

alt is definitely working , 14v when running. so far as the fusable links i have not checked them. ill put that on the list, thanks.

5 speed

did work on this problem today: replaced ignition switch(note to others:tilt column and non-tilt use a different part) upgraded grounds as recommended in cruisers renix tips replaced battery terminals bought new battery(waiting to solve this before putting it in) swapped out starter relay with a new looking one from jy checked fuses, none blown so the issue is not completely fixed yet here's where i stand key in on position gets the accessory circuit going(radio, air etc) key in start position cuts off accessory circuit but fails to crank(which is why i swapped the relay) tried starting by providing 12v to the sol wire on the relay, and it cranked without starting put some gas in it since it wouldnt start and it had to be low after having th fuel leak and not being filled since i can't even remember jumped the sol wire again and it fires up and runs good I'm thinking the relay may still be bad...but I'm not getting any voltage from the ign wire that goes to the relay when i turn they key and i certainly don't get any voltage out of the green sol wire or terminal on the relay could i have a bad ignition switch from the store?? i mean it seems to work as far as the accessory circuit goes and i made sure to line up the sliding hole part to how the old one was when i swapped them. i should have tried giving 12v to the ign terminal on the relay and seeing if the sol wire went hot, that would have ruled out the relay. I'm already cleaned up now though, maybe tomorrow. any thoughts?

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just by-pass the ballast resistor to see if it helps, u technically don't need it

where's the rest of it?? :hmm: seriously, i don't blame you for not trusting that thing at high speeds. I'm scared just looking at it. got some good parts though with the visor taillights interior and cap (and the chrome bumper would be a score but it looks so far gone)