DirtyComanche

It's probably as good as it ever was. Somebody with a Quadrajunk will want it. Actually, if I was stateside I'd be sending you money for it already. Since I do have one...

This is for the bushing at the axle end, which is not changed out when going to aftermarket or WJ arms. The plan is to build the UCAs using junk I have lying around, so the frame end would be drilled out to a 1/2" bolt at least anyways as I don't have any poly bushings or similar that use smaller bolts. Bolt failures occur right after you get away from the flimsy U-channel setup, the fact they are so flimsy is why the bolts survive. No, I don't anticipate having a problem, but the JK bushings are actually cheaper than the XJ ones with my account discount, so if there's a (potentially) better part that's cheaper then why not?

Has anyone tried using JK UCA bushings in order to go to a larger bolt? Allegedly the OD of the bushings are the same as XJ/MJ ones, but they use as 12mm bolt rather than a 10mm. It would seem it should be easy enough to open the hole up a tiny little bit in order to then run a 1/2" bolt if one wished.

Metric hardware? It was pricey then...

I haven't bought anything yet but I think a booster upgrade will be in order... Gonna have to check Rockauto.

Well? (Rather than the typical "What are you getting your SO" thread :rotf: )

You can buy rebuild kits or new ones and transfer the seals. If you're careful :D Rebuild kits won't help much if he snaps off a bleeder screw in the caliper. That's what an easy-out is for. Or weld a nut onto the broken bleeder... I've broken more than a few off and never trashed a caliper because of it.

If there's one thing I'd pull the bulb out of, it's that...

The 2dr XJ ones are smaller.

As long as you're careful you should be able to get the axleshafts in with a minimal amount of crap stuck to them. I always put a little light grease on the splines and seal surface as they will slide through the seal easier and be less likely to tear it.

Sucks about the tailgate and bumper. I can't stand having a manual transmission without a good working parking brake anymore, too easy to have that sort of stuff happen.

This is a pretty common swap in 'the rest of the world.' Curious if anyone has done so on the MJ/XJ platform and what problems they ran into? I seriously need to upgrade my brake booster, but just going out and doing something that's proven and easy would be boring... Plus I can probably snag a hydroboost and master for very little money from the 'yard. Nope, I haven't done even the most basic of research such as to check the MC bore size or what other MCs bolt to it, but I will later tonight.

I think I went back and forth on this. It appeared to not really matter at the end of the day. In my XJ I hooked the front chamber to the front of the prop/distribution valve, which would be for the rear brakes. I don't recall having to file anything to get my van MC to fit, but who knows, I did buy a previously enjoyed booster to bolt it to, so it's hard to say what is what. I have often stated that there is not one single part on that rig that actually bolted on without modification, and I suspect it was the same in this case.

I used the van one, looks identical to that, but it wasn't really an available part in my neck of the woods. If that one works the same it would be good to know for the future, since I can probably buy one locally instead of having to order it out of the US.

That's the 2500 van master cylinder then? That prop valve is very slick, I might have to buy one.

The HEI is much more simple. You don't need anything but one wire to run it.

You should do the Cruiser tips for the ground cleanups/upgrades/etc and probably even bypass the stupid bulkhead connector too. They cost almost nothing to do and will probably make a difference.

It's pretty much how I get all my oddball adhesives/sealers/assembly lubricants/etc as liability has lead to almost everything having a shelf life. It works for me!

I ran a HEI, so not quite the same. I think you might be able to mod the CPS enough to get a decent amount of timing out of it, but that's about it AFAIK. If a guy wanted it to be dual fuel they could probably mod the CPS by leaving the factory sensor where it is, then putting a second one on in as far of an advanced position as possible, then run it through a high quality DPDT switch with shielded wiring. But either way you should be able to dump enough gas to it with a primer to get it to start. Typically propane doesn't start terribly easy, or has a long cranking time, because the regulators are demand based and it takes a while for it 'sense' demand given that cranking RPM just isn't that high.

We have a shelf life on it, so normally there's a little left over that is best to be used up elsewhere rather than pay disposal. It's extremely forgiving to shoot and will stick to anything.

I have been tidying up a few things. I got the ebrake cables installed and working. No pictures, but I had to mod the brackets on the calipers a bit to hold the Comanche cables correctly. Also, my 'splitter' bracket on the chassis was all screwed up and I had to weld part of it back together. Anyways, the ebrake is now working. I fixed the backup lights so they now come on when in reverse, and shut off when not in reverse. I found my JK? steering stabilizer. Just need to swap it on. I also ordered a Zip locker for the rear... Yeah, me stupid. And a little Viair compressor. My gas tank showed up. I was just going to slam it in, but it was unpainted (but coated in a preservative grease type goo), and I decided I couldn't just do it... It's very thin, already had a dent from shipping, so I figured I'd better give it a chance against rusting. Tank: Koropon primer and lacquer topcoat: I cleaned up the fuel level sender while I had it out, and I can now trust the fuel gauge. It's been quite cold but I've been driving it around and the truck seems to be doing okay. I'm not sure if the block heater actually works, and it has the wrong tstat in it so the heater isn't a good as it could be. Also the poorly welded door hinge/door trying to fall off is getting a little annoying, so put that on the list.

Get a primer solenoid. Mine had no issues starting on propane with one.

I can't possibly imagine demand for those consoles outpacing the supply. The yard here crushed most of their XJs about a month ago (he didn't call me first, grr), and I'm betting 95% of those XJs still had the console in them when they got crushed. The 3 he has left all have them, or did when I was there a couple weeks ago.

It probably won't change much noticeably. Your alignment might be a bit toed in, but extremely minimally. And you're going to lose a little bit of caster. You might want to buy some shims to adjust caster and check the alignment with a tape measure. But that would be being picky, at least by my standards.

The XJ Cherokee center console fits perfectly. I don't know if it's the same P/N as the MJ one or not, but functionally and visually it's the same. They're very easy to source. Edit, assuming full console. The half console is hard to find from an XJ, it's also the same though.