DirtyComanche

The fun thing about bending up a cage is you get way better as you do it, so by the time you're done you normally hate all the stuff you did at the start...

Is there power at pin 30? If there isn't, there's probably a fuse feeding it that's missing or blown. Taillights look really good like that.

I have high regard for Luk clutch components and would not worry about it. And as said, those UHMW plastics are very durable and make an excellent self lubricating bearing.

I bought fixed RE ones. They do what I want. If I wanted better performance for off road use it would probably buy the TMR ones with Johnny Joints on each end, but they're expensive and those joints don't last like an OEM style bushing. You need to define want you intend for the truck to do before I could give you a better answer.

Allegedly some of the renix blocks were thicker around the cylinders too and could be bored out farther. But IMHO it's not terribly relevant to anything.

I think the 4cyl trucks are a great starting point for swapping another powertrain into. I'd buy a 2wd 4L truck and swap it to 4wd before I would really consider a 4cyl. Before I bought the pair of trucks I have now I did look at a 4cyl, but the owner had 'rebuilt' the engine to the tune of about $1000, so he wanted way too much for the truck given its condition. IMHO he threw good money after bad rebuilding that engine (no idea what sort of quality the rebuild was anyways, his body work wasn't very good either). Some people love their little 4 banger, I just find the thing so lackluster in power that it isn't worth it.

Is that where PSC recommended tapping the box? It works, but it's not the normal way, you're better off doing it closer to the input/orbital part of the box IMHO.

The closed system should never vent and the XJ/MJ system doesn't really have provisions to do so. Some modern vehicles with closed systems have provisions to vent, but it is a design feature that only comes into play in the event that the system has been overfilled. Overfilling is something that will cause problems on the XJ/MJ system. The open system doesn't open THAT much, it pukes maybe a liter or two into the overflow/recovery tank, depending on temperature and system capacity. If you don't saturate the cooling system, IE it's cold out and you don't really load the engine up, it won't even be that much. System capacities between the two are essentially the same. There's a couple more liters of coolant being recirculated in the closed system (not less), but that's about it. Radiator dimensions are for all purposes the same. Since the closed system radiator is harder to source, there is many closed system rigs running around with an open style (with rad cap) radiator, they just have the overflow plugged, and it works fine. I don't know if the design similarities hold true for all vehicles that can be had in both an open or closed cooling system configuration, but looking at modern GM trucks (closed system) I would say they did not skimp on the radiator/radiator tank capacity in any way. I guess if you had a massive radiator/tanks/pressure bottle and ran a real hot thermostat, you might be able to get the coolant in the engine to above boiling before the system pressure built high enough to prevent it, but I'm not aware of anything having that issue.

Those would be XJ cables if they were still on the axle, they're not the same as MJ ones. Or at least they aren't if it's a newer XJ, older ones are very similar to the MJ cables (about 54" long), the newer ones use one long cable and one short cable (I believe about 70" and 30" respectively). Kinda irrelevant for the OP, unless he wants to buy two of the newer style XJ long cables. I stand by my statement that they should be long enough. Mine worked, I'm SOA. I bought brand new MJ cables when I put the axle in. Of course I happen to have Isuzu brake calipers, so it's not a direct comparison, but still, there was a lot of slack left. If you're worried about it I guess you could get the newer XJ cables or just an older XJ cable, I'd assume either will hook up fine.

That transmission will bolt up. Make sure you retain the flex plate from your current trans. The wiring might not be the same though, and the TV cable and internals are not. You can make the TV cable fit, but it's tight, I think I could pull up a picture of how I did it on my XJ if you want. It would be more ideal to find a later XJ that is being parted out and steal the trans/tcase/front driveshaft/shifter/linkage.

The correct one off Rockauto is only $32 cnd, before the discount... So that's like $25 US?

Rockauto has most of the seals and such listed. Be prepared to spend a few bucks if you buy it all new.

Yeah, I can't find good metal as easily as other people can. I'm pretty fast at swapping door stuff around, I think I did all 4 on my XJ in 2 hours. Yella is throwing out stuff that I would be running. :rotfl2:

There's an extremely nice wooden topper on a truck that I see at Homodepot all the time. All curved surfaces and sanded perfectly smooth with some sort of hard gloss resin or stain on it. It's a cabinet maker or a finish carpenter that owns it, I can't remember which. I should snag a picture some time.

FSJ Network is the new IFSJA. IFSJA had some issues with hosting and the owners not really caring, so a lot of guys moved over to FSJ Network. http://www.fsjnetwork.com/ I've got a 66 Gladiator, 76 J10 and 76 J20, they're all pretty rough to say the least. Of the 66 I basically have only the cab, the grill, and the title... If it's an automatic it's probably a Quadratrac transfercase and is probably still configured for full time 4wd. Be wary of the potential to damage it, and the special fluid requirement for it.

It takes maybe a couple hours at most to swap door guts over. Nothing special is needed, just basic hand tools, other than you will need a drill/bits and some replacement rivets or 1/4" bolts and nuts to put the regulator and braces back in. If you really want it to be nice I would order some of the weatherstripping and the door lock gasket at the same time. Is it a new OEM door, or is it a repop? I don't know what the repop XJ/MJ doors are like, but I had some for a Chevy truck and they were complete garbage; nothing ever fit right in them and they were obviously thinner metal than the OEM doors.

Summit Racing sells a drop in one for $150. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-850047/overview/make/jeep I'm going to order one for my J-truck at some point.

Wow, you actually think something that not only has Renix parts on it, but isn't even chromed out, is actually nice! Way to see you're finally coming around on this stuff.

I had a sneaking suspicion it might have something to do with that. Sure looks like it's in nice shape though. :thumbsup:

I bought a 'Master' ball joint cup set from Astro Pneumatic, even with that I would up modifying a set of cups to do the BJs on the D30. Also, I bought an OTC BJ press after I got sick of blowing up the Chinese ones, it is much better and made in the USA. I believe if you buy this OTC kit you should be covered though: https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-8031-Ball-Joint-Truck/dp/B000O1E52E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487487111&sr=8-9&keywords=ball+joint+press (you can get it off amazon.com or a US retailer for much less) I bought all Moog steering, because I feel it is acceptable quality. I went with a V8 ZJ tie rod (you need the tie rod, the adjuster sleeve, and the tie rod end, all separate) as it is beefier than the stock junk. I always went with a later (97+ or something) XJ drag link, adjuster sleeve, and drag link end (at the pitman arm) as again these parts are something of an upgrade over the OEM early stuff. The Moog catalog for this stuff is IMHO quite confusing, I believe I put the P/Ns in my build thread, but otherwise I would recommend going to a parts store and piecing it together there to make sure it is all correct. However I ordered everything off Rockauto and managed to get it right, and I'm smart like dumptruck, so it is possible to figure out. Also I bought a 'flipsert' for the driver side knuckle, allowing me to put the tie rod on top of the steering arm. I got it from TMR Customs, IIRC, as they make the better type. It should be welded in, I certainly welded mine in, but you will hear of guys that just drilled the knuckle out and dropped them in. Anyways, it does a lot to correct the goofy geometry of the steering once you're lifted more than a couple inches. If you want to spend more money there is other options for full aftermarket steering replacement kits. If you go this route, don't get anything with Heim joints, they typically wear out super fast on the street.

Cast iron manifolds? Probably be fine...

I'm betting they will still be long enough.

It's kinda neither. It's a Renix that the computer is only controlling the ignition and there's a demand based propane setup on it. I said it before, I'll say it again, I would put a HEI on it and be done. Throw some lighter springs in it so it advances hard and don't look back.

That AW4 is different from the one in your 89, or what normally comes in an 89 at least, in that it has a different TV cable and the valvebody/internals are actually different in regards to that. It takes a different amount of throw to actuate it. The good news is if you go to the HO throttle body/intake/brackets/throttle cable it works perfectly.

I have Bilstein 24-188197 in the front. I like them. My rears are some super cheap Monroe gas shocks that have been relocated. I don't like them, but they were super cheap... Will upgrade to Bilsteins probably at some point. Or even just a better Monroe or KYB.