cody4359

i broke 2 -1/2" breaker bars with 3' cheaters trying to get mine driver side off. i sprayed them with kroil but didnt wait long enough, finally (an old indian trick i learned) took my little propane torch and heated the bearing up nice and warm, then rubbed a candle around the nut/threads. took my reg 1/2 ratched with same cheater and it spun right off. the heat/candle wax works just like heat/ flux soddering, and sucks right into the nasty rusty threads. can you still get a socket on the nut or is it too stripped? could you weld a new nut onto the old socket? edit: re-read and yea the nuts stripped, id find a little larger dia. nut, clean the rust off the old one, weld the new nut against it. when its hot spray some kroil or whatever penatrating oil you use onto it, or wax, the heat will shock it and it should come right off

i kinda like the slammed look, ovbiously for a 2wd. my favorites are baby and chevy inspired. 97+ doors and front end would look sweet :D

making some progress, the motors in now, awaiting time to tackle the wiring. you need to het some pictures of yours up :D

thank you :thumbsup:

hookd on phonix rilly wurked fer me ;) if i were you, id hold off on the power upgrades, when you put thoes 31's on gear it. do you know what gears you have now? new ring/pinions for front/rear can be had for around $500, then have to be installed.

if you have larger tires:lower gears. buy randys ring and pinion book, learn to install them yourself, buy a torque wrench and a dial indicator/mag base and save major coin. is your truck stock suspension/tires or what are you working with? 505performance has a cam that claims around 40 hp for a few hundred, but I'm sure with hp gain, mpg would go down. i have a bored throttle body, banks torque tube header, 2.5" cat back (all for around 750-800), sure it sounds beefey and a noticible power difference, but i should have geared it first to get my mpg higher and be easier on my tranny

looks like your one ton steering tried over powering your tie rod

are mj/xj heater boxes the same (pre 97 xj)? or can mj boxes be found at the stealership still?

v8 zj swaybar is a cheap mod

so have you ridden it it before and after the sound deadener? i noticed in the pic you didnt do the whole floor, was that a midway thru pic or what? if you have ridden in it, how noticable is the difference? in my car there is a big difference between driving on black top and chip seal, just got "fat mat" but I'm going to install it whenever i get around to painting the car

and? did you fire it up yet? run yet? :cheers: i still have to splice the rear harness to the front, install my new timing chain, then put the radiator/ac and all accesories in the proper mouting points before i try turning it over. start night shift 2morrow nite for a few nights then i have school for a week starting the 21st, then a job after that. won't be turning it over for quite a while :cry:

read this build, he started to mod both dashes to work, don't know what ever happened. get some pics up, everyone likes pictures :cheers: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3430&start=45

i finally installed th MOFO'in motor

when you putting the lift on?

i got a banks torque tube last year. it was spendy ($460 or sumthing) but has a lift time warranty and good construction. stainless steel, 1/2" flange, welded inside and out on the exhaust ports. i called banks manufacture direct about this time last year and talked the price down, free shipping, and a hat :D

coming along nicely. and atleast you have a concrete floor, i threw down plywood over my lumpy gravel floor lol

you had a long bed xj :doh: :thumbsup:

not a problem, i gave you an opnion :thumbsup: sell it to daddy and get sumthing better.

install it and you pretty much answer your question :dunce: and IMO rustys sucks as do AAL

I'm guessing the wiring from 97 sender/pump won't work on a 96 dash?

how accurate will your fuel guage read? xj pumps mount thru the side and it looks like yours is mounted to the top :hmm:

eye ball it and make a backing plate like this so you can adjust it if need be viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27753

yes the lock ring kit, and use the brass on the lock ring, not the pump. as you hit it , it will rotate then slide the direction you tappin twoards. jump around if possible to keep it somewhat centered in the hole opposed to hitting one direction and pinching it against the tank

id replace the strainer while its out, probable get new seal for when you put the pump back in, and i believe that square pan is a slosh pan, basically keeps your fuel guage from jumping all over. a brass punch and a hammer will get it out no problem. i say brass because it won't spark like a screw driver. and this goes without saying but a empty tank is alot lighter than a full tank ;)

I'm not for using credit cards or borrowing money, my first and only payment is my home loan. but if there comes a time when money is tight and you need to borrow it, youll probably be wishing you had a decent credit score to ease up the interest.