Eagle_SX4

The map sensor being disconnected will not cause a no start situation. Mine liked to pop off every once and a while. It just causes a high idle. I pop it back in and it is back to normal.

High idle is almost always caused by a vacuum leak. Your IAC valve may be getting stuck open and only occasionally working. New parts are not always good parts. It is easy to check you if your throttle is getting stuck just remove you intake tube that is bolted on to the throttle body (3 torx bolts) and look inside. You can start the engine with that removed. With the engine off cycle the throttle by hand and see if it likes to stick at any point. If you suspect a vacuum leak pull off all of the vacuum hoses on the intake and plug the holes. If you idle returns to normal then add them back one at a time until you find the issue.

When I put the new engine in my truck I had a high idle when I plugged the charcoal canister straight to the manifold instead of the air box. There may be a broken vacuum hose some where that is not next to the manifold. Test each vacuum circut by pulling all the vacuum connections off the manifold one at a time and plugging them to see if your idle returns to normal.

That is a H.O. trim bezel. When they switched to an electric speedo the trip rest button was moved to out side the speedo.

On the REM what does your map sensor and IAC show.

Do you have experience with this contactor? If reliable it would be a great low cost alternative to the Warn version. From my research Warn uses Albright contactors made in the UK. The Albright DC88-1000P is the very close to the Warn version. All the specs of that contactor can be found on their website. https://www.albrightinternational.com/products/dc88-1000p/

I have a Warn M8000 I bought used. I don't know how old it is. I rebuilt it and the winch works great. The problem I am having is the solenoids are going out and only work occasionally. I can hear them click but there is no power transfer. I can buy new solenoids or I can upgrade to a contractor pack. The contractor I am looking at is Warn 98381. It is used on the Warn Zeon XP winches. It is going to be about the same price to get the contactor or 4 new solenoids. Would it be worth the trouble of upgrading or should I stick with new solenoids? Also Can I reuse my old controller or do I need to get a new one? I haven't been able to find much info about doing the upgrade. Any info on this subject would be appreciated.

I believe the 4.0 starters are grounded through the starter body. + 12 volts get put to the large terminal. With switched + 12 volts added to the small trigger wire to engage the starter.

Parts stores can test your starter. Just take it off and bring it in, they have a bench tester. Then you will know for sure before your order a new one.

There was a land speed record set with a 4.0 liter Comanche in 1987. The record only stood for 2 years.

I totally agree daily driving an Eagle is a lot of fun and definitely gets lots of smiles along the way.

The most common cause of an issue like this would be a failing fuel pump. I would check your fuel pressure first before you buy a new computer. Fuel pumps are much cheaper than computers.

I swapped in a NP242 and @derf is correct about Part time (high and low range) being locked like a 231, only should be engage on slippery or loose surfaces. With full time being an open differential, being able to drive with it engaged all the time on any surface or "Full time".

The part number is listed in this post.

It came with the truck. I am fairly certain it is the factory axle it had 3.07 gears in it with the tag still on the diff cover when I bought it.

Take this with a grain a salt as I am no expert. From what I have read and understand, synthetic oils have more detergents in them which helps clean the engine and can remove old tarnished oil that was preventing you from seeing a failed seal. It won't cause new leaks but might cause small leaks to become bigger.

I had excessive heat on the transmission tunnel when I bought my truck. My issue was there was no shifter boot and there was a hole in the top of the transmission tunnel that was just open. I plugged both of those and the heat in the cab stopped almost completely. I wonder if your transfer case shifter is not sealed to the floor. Letting in just enough air that over time it heats everything up. I would pull it out and put some kind of sealant on it.

Tested my winch today pulling a tree stump out of my parent's yard. My dad cut off all the roots we could see and then we hooked up the winch and the stump put up a good fight but the winch won. (Pic is the stump in my dad's '89 Chevy K2500)

Check your manifold bolts they like to come loose and too much air when decelerating can cause the engine to shut off. Those loose bolts will also cause an intermittent high idle.

Used my new winch/bumper to pull this stump out of my parents yard. My dad cut all the visible roots off and, it still put up a fight pulling it out. It was a 24 year old Bradford Pear. (In the bed of my dad's '89 Chevy K2500)

Sounds like your transfer case is in neutral. Check your transfer case shift linkage and make sure it is hooked up and adjusted correctly. Also did the shop pull and reinstall the transmission for you? I would crawl under the truck and make sure everything looks to be in its proper place.

It is a good kit but you may need to trim some modify a few pieces to fit perfectly. I had to narrow mine about 3/16 inch to fit properly. It was modeled on a 97+ XJ so it has some mounting holes that are just not in the early frame. Such as the mounting holes for the right hand drive steering box. They made a good video on youtube that outlines the assembly process. I did weld the wings directly to the center section instead of having them removable. If you would like any detailed pics let me know and I can grab some.

I agree with this. Seems like you have checked most if not all of your steering components. Next should be to check the wheels, ball joints and hub bearings. Any of those could easily cause death wobble if the are worn out enough. Even loose lug nuts could cause death wobble.

I just read through this whole thread again and I didn't see it mentioned what your death wobble symptoms were. Such as the steering steering wheel shaking back the whole truck shacking or the maybe like the problem I had, the entire bed would shake. What is actually happening when you experience the death wobble.

I would check your air flow through the radiator. I have heard that the thicker 3 core radiators let less air through, actually reducing cooling capacity. You can do a simple test by putting a piece of paper in front of the radiator to see if it stays in place or falls off. With the E-fan setup an upgraded alternator to handle the addition current draw of the fans is definitely recommended.