Salvagedcircuit

Excellent, excellent work. I am going to copy that center console exactly on mine, but obviously match the honey gold interior. Awesome job!

Hahaha, Nice. I find it is useful if you need to rewrite a paragraph, condense a paragraph or find an alternate way to say something. For doing research, It will become more useful once they give it the ability to fully scrape web pages. It can kind of grab information, but sometimes it completely makes things up. I was looking for server grade ssds for my desktop with power loss protection so I asked and received a list of 8 items, and one was a completely non-existant intel ssd. Lol.

Excellent information. Thanks a ton! I'll grab a part of these, They at least seem to be still available and for a lot more reasonable amount.

This is the way. Nice job.

Many Thanks!

Curious, what is the filler neck near the booster in the photo below (circled in white)? Thanks!

Very nice indeed. When no one's looking, do a snow dirt angel on your new shop floor Congrats!

It's a Southbend 9in. Pretty close Since the mamiya shaft was solid brass, I was able to get it within 6 thou of center true by doing nothing other than lightly tapping the bent end with a piece of hickory and keeping a close eye on the indicator. Pretty dang good. Prevented me from machining a new shaft or sacrificing another rb67 to harvest a working focusing shaft.

That right there, that takes the cake. Nice job. I should make me one of those in the 80s reinx style.

This is the way. I got a panasonic superdisk camera for christmas 2 years ago. The camera is a tank and the batteries still work. It uses 2 cell sony np style batteries. Such an absurd camera. Otherwise, I repaired a mamiya rb67 as my brother's christmas present this year.

Mine was just like this! One of the connectors was toast so I replaced it with a BWD Automotive PT300 pigtail advance# 85186 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174574459324 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-harness-3-wire-throttle-position-sensor-85186/22148598-P I had to make a slot in one of the plastic sheaths on the connector, but definitely a easy concession when the local parts store had it in stock and the terminals on mine were burnt and completely not reusable.

It is incredible that MBA's and upper management can just condone free forced labor. I saw nothing, I hear nothing, I say nothing! https://www.shuforcedlabour.org/drivingforce It's all about that last penny. The top execs need their solid gold Yacht railings!

Looking good! I did this same process this summer!

I have this exact same problem. My original antenna was bastardized by the PO. I replaced it with one from another 88 cherokee and the sheet steel punch out hole was a larger diameter than the rubber plug on the antenna cable. The rubber plug on my antenna cable did not slide along the cable either. I was not using excessive force, but I could not get it to move. My solution is grab a new rubber grommet from mcmaster and either shove the entire antenna cable and old rubber plug through the new grommet or slice off the old rubber plug from the cable, buy a new plug, make a slit, attach the plug to the cable and add a little bit of silicone to the slit. Either method should work. I just have to take some measurements first. Something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/7291N45/ Or this https://www.mcmaster.com/grommets/grommets-6/ Or this: https://www.mcmaster.com/7291N19/ I'm leaning toward the last link and just making a slit.

You know its a quality dealership when they wax and polish the radiator hoses, fan shroud and air intake

Excellent documentation! I don't think I've ever used cruise control on any vehicle, but dang if I ever wanted to add it to my comanche, your guide looks pretty complete. I nuked my original '88 TCC switch and I forgot to rewire it into the 96 combo brake switch after I did the WJ booster+master swap. Really hoping it has not damaged something >.>

Looks awesome! If you are using a new booster, make sure to check if the booster push rod is adjusted properly to the master cylinder. I blindly trusted that cardone would set the new booster rod length to Jeep spec before shipment to match a WJ Jeep master. They did not. It wasted 2+months of my time. The booster rod was set all the way to shortest most recessed length. Awesome progress as always! Thanks for all your input along the way too. I should hopefully be uploading my build log soon.

Bookmarking this for when I need to investigate my tailgate. I thought it was my tailgate rubber blocks being warn. Oh boy was it not. The tailgate just keeps shifting left, even when parked on flat ground. The tailgate is very straight too. Probably the side latch mount.

You sir, are the right kind of crazy. Nice job!

Cool! Curious, where did you find a windshield washer tank sensor? Thanks!

I dug around a bit. The cherokees and comanches from 1984-1989 used a Teflon sleeve between the rubber boot and the slide pin for the front calipers. I attached a photo from the service manual. I spent some time looking for this sleeve and it simply does not exist anymore. Not on rock auto, not jcwhitney, nothing from autozone, napa, advanced auto or fisher parts. I called the jeep dealer and they at least acknowledge the part existed. They of course had no calipers or caliper rebuild parts. "Discontinued." Here's some mopar part numbers: 1984-1989 Caliper bushing #52001700 sleeve #52001701 The good news is this sleeve is nothing more than a sheet of 0.02in thick teflon rolled up. I measured with 2 calipers to make sure. There is a slight wavy pattern stamped into the teflon sheet, but I don't think it's that important of geometry. The omix part doesnt look like it has such a pattern. Here is the 0.02in thick teflon sheet I have ordered: https://www.mcmaster.com/1192N17/ I plan to cut some myself and see how it goes. I am also going to order the sleeves from omix and compare them. Why am I doing all of this? The calipers that I was sold by autozone did not have the slide pin bushings in them. I installed the calipers correctly and torqued them down, but I noticed after 4mi of use, the brake pads and caliper shifted on me and misaligned. When the caliper was removed and slide pins removed, the slide pin hole diameter on the autozone caliper was 0.53in. The same slide pin hole was 0.5in on the stock caliper. I removed both rubber boots and measured the casting hole diameter. The casting hole diameter on both calipers was 0.682in. I cannot fully confirm that the omission of this sleeve caused the caliper to shift on me, but it definitely is not a good sign if rebuilt calipers are missing components. I did inspect the caliper anchor plates on both sides of the vehicle and neither were cracked, warped or damaged. The threads in both anchors looked clean and un-damaged.

Congrats! Glad that it found a new home.

Does anyone know where I can find these teflon or nylon inserts for the slide pins? My new caliper from autozone did not come with them inside the rubber boots and the entire caliper shifted on me. Thanks.

I have an '88 with 2 problematic front calipers. I am investigating whether or not 1990-01 anti-rattle clip calipers are compatible with the anchor plate on the '88 front axle. Would I have to change a bunch of steering related components, or would the calipers bolt up? Thanks.