Salvagedcircuit

Nice work! I just grabbed a pack of front grill wiring harness clips from aliexpress. I'm hoping they fit, they look close enough. Makes it far less fiddly when reassembling the front end. Otherwise the wiring loom gets pinched between the lower radiator and fiberglass front.

That makes a lot more sense now. So I either take the sending unit from an official 23.5gallon fuel pump, or I somehow bend the float arm or modify mine to work with a different fuel level.

Where exactly is the sending unit? I annotated the fuel pump below. What am I missing here? Thanks

Based on what @smokey found, I believe I have the same situation he has, a 23.5gal-limited-to-16gal tank. What I'm curious about is if I can continue to use my current fuel pump in the tank if I shorten the filler and overflow tube. Wouldn't I need to change the float arm height? Isn't the pump and sending unit one assembly?

There are 3 straps

Thread revival! I have a base model long bed comanche with a 16gal tank. If I grab a new 23.5gal tank, can I just reuse my old fuel pump? I checked MTS pumps and they only list one style fuel pump for the comanche: JPSU-6P4.0 I'm also considering removing my fuel pump and reducing the length of the filler and overflow tube like @smokey did. Instead of cutting an access hole for a sawzall, I think I may just be able to fit my arm in there and swing a small diameter and large diameter pipe cutter. Thanks!

If the fuel was bad, maybe replace the fuel filter. It's easy to get to and cost $3 from rockauto.

Nice! sometimes rockauto really delivers

Nice work! Also, finding a Mishimoto radiator in the JY - the Jeep gods must have been with you that day. Dang!

aww yeah

My b-pillar clip is exactly like this. I'm going to plastic weld + window-screen mesh it next time so there's something to screw to.

Looking good! Nice work!

I have had success with the Grote 44891 2 Pin Flasher with separate GND wire. It clicks louder than my stock thermo-electric flashers which is nice. I grabbed one from advance auto when I was diagnosing my strange flasher issue. Another alternative is the one from @OffGridResearch which is available here.

I believe @schardein was one of the first to detail the use of the S10 Blazer lights as replacement MJ B-pillar lights on CC. I purchased a pair from him and a pair of the Euratech lights. The Euratech lights have an inline diode so the lights can work independently. The blazer lights are missing the diodes and both would turn on simultaneously whenever one was switched on. Not ideal. Here's some photos of adding the inline diode for anyone who goes this route. A 1N4004 silicon diode will be more than enough to do the job. The wiring diagram from the Euratech lights is there for reference.

My lower dash was cracked in multiple spots from the previous owner's sloppy CB radio install, but after the plastic welding it's nice and straight. The hairline cracks give it character lol. I've read a bunch on here about people having luck with SEM paints. Cool. I think I just got lucky that my door cards cleaned up with melamine / mr.clean eraser. Nearly all the marks vanished and the melamine left no residue or staining. I covered up the botched speaker hole with slightly larger 5.25in Goldwood metal speaker grill covers and the result is pretty clean. They clear the window cranks and take some abuse when my foot accidentally hits them, which works for me. I'm definitely going KJ liberty rear axle purely because they are slightly wider to match up the front / back wheel tracks, have the complete disc setup and have the same rim bolt pattern. I previously purchased the ~$800 teraflex disc conversion kit for D35 / D44 and after looking it over, it was not worth the effort, especially on earlier non C-clip axles. I returned the kit. This thread was very helpful to me:

Woah what an update. Nice job on the dual diaphragm booster + master. That is the best bang/buck combo In terms of the cracked grill, I have had some great success plastic welding broken plastic parts with a soldering iron and stainless window screen mesh. I attached some photos. a simple 70w soldering iron is enough. The mesh just melts into the back in a few seconds. It isn't going to make the crack seam on the front completely vanish, but it greatly closes up the crack and prevents further damage. The repair is also unnoticeable from the front side. Curious, what did you use to refresh the door cards? The rear axle welds look nice, reminds me that I should finally grab that rear axle from the manual liberty at my nearby junkyard. Rear discs hubba hubba hubba.

I was passing through Connecticut today on 8/5/24 and there was a small car show on the side of the road. Someone had a lowered gray Comanche that looked badass. I forgot which town it was in. I think it was this dude's: https://www.instagram.com/johnsharkey/p/CvVw8BCr9AL/ I was in route to pickup a truck for my brother and couldn't stop :/

I used a cup wire wheel on a grinder, but yeah it makes an absolute mess.

@Eagle_SX4 and @eaglescout526 you guys are the best. @eaglescout526 that's the exact one I'm looking for. Thanks a ton! The hellermanntyton clips look nice, but they only seem to sell in quantities in the thousands. These look close, but not quite as long. I'm going to give these a try for now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196509654452

I have to check max height. I believe this is max height. I really like it. The base is nice and wide too. It can be made lower profile if you grind off the steel peg at the top and just weld on a simple steel plate or steel cup. I made an adapter for mine instead which just fits on top of the adapter and has a set screw.

Hey guys, I'm looking for the wire loom clips that look like the attached photos. Do these exist anymore? I could of course CAD them up and 3d print, but they'd be no where near as durable as injection molded parts. Thanks!

Wow. This is a pretty neat idea. I had to source a used egr tube on ebay because the captive nuts on mine dissolved.

I use an AM general / Hummer H1 scissor jack https://www.ebay.com/itm/135089780293 https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/4696/3-and-a-half-ton-Scissor-Jack-with-Tools-and-Carrying-Bag rated for 3.5 tons. They are built incredibly well, and you can still get them on ebay and at army / navy stores. They are usually about $70usd

Excellent work!

Lookin good! Curious, does the 97+ front clip mount to the original pre-97 front fenders, or do you need 97+ fenders for it to match? Thanks!