derf

I'm still working from home. At our staff meeting yesterday they told us that anyone who can work from home is required to keep doing so until further notice. There are a few things that people do where they have to be in the office but I can basically do everything remotely so I stay home. Sometimes I miss being able to sit down face to face with someone and work through a problem but we have decent (not great) tools to help us collaborate. I too enjoy the freedom. Having access to the kitchen for a healthier lunch is nice. The commute is a lot shorter and I don't have to "dress up" (i.e. put pants on).

There are two main factors in the spread of this disease. 1. The density of the population. 2. The density of the population.

Sounds like efforts to open things back up are just causing the virus to spread much more quickly, unfortunately. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-health-coronavirus/germany-surge-sounds-coronavirus-alarm-as-world-takes-steps-to-reopen-idUSKBN22N1QT We really need to ramp up testing and contact tracing if we really want to open things back up.

The 904 /998/999 was also used in a lot of AMC cars. They're hard to find now but there are several models to choose from. You can also find the 727 behind AMC engines from the factory as well. They all need the CPS for factory fuel injection but that's not terribly hard to do.

The 44 is stronger. Yours is the 35.

Subaru Crosstrek. I don't have pictures handy but it's just a generic hatchback that gets halfway decent mileage and it can get around in the snow pretty good. And I'm not tempted to modify it.

I could see doing one of those expandable tents on a station wagon. But not a sedan.

The full size Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer/Cherokee/J-Truck had lots of different grills to choose from. None of them had 7 slots. The M715 family had a grill that was the closest to the first generation military Jeep. It was literally just flat bars welded together in a grid, bolted up in front of the radiator.

Yeah, I have a bunch of those too.

Have you ever tried sharpening them? I have a Drill Doctor and once you get it figured out it does a decent job of sharpening.

Replying is actually a bad idea. It lets them know that your phone number is an active one with a live person on the other end. I do remember back before the do not call list came out, I figured out how to cut off annoying sales calls. They were all mostly robo-dialed, even back then. There was a series of 3 tones if you dialed a bad number. I was able to record those tones and put them at the start of my answering machine message. The robo-dialers would hear those tones and kick your number out of the list. It didn't take too long for the robo-calls to dry right up.

It depends on what garbage your provider put in the phone in a lot of cases. Many of them tend to make basic services "pay to play" so that they get extra money for enabling a feature that costs them nothing. My question is how they got your number in the first place. I've never one gotten my number on one of those lists. When they ask for one and won't let me proceed without it, I give them the old information number (303-555-1212).

There's always that one exception that ends up being a bugger to deal with.

One way I keep my wrenches alive is by not really beating on them. I'll use them to ratchet a mostly loose nut or bolt. But when it comes to getting them loose or snugging them up, I'll switch to a regular wrench.

I've been reasonably happy with the ones I got at Lowe's or Home Despot (can't remember which). I wouldn't use them for a job as a mechanic but they get the job done the few times I use them.

So I found a place down in Castle Rock. Just got an offer accepted. We'll see how this pans out. Being near the outlet mall means it's an "easy" shot up I-25 to Lone Tree where our offices are moving or over to the main campus up Santa Fe and over. I hope this one works out.

That's awesome news.

The biggest issue is that it's an incomplete vehicle. If it were completed, running, and driving, you might be able to make an outside edge case to support a price that he's asking. But it's not. It's incomplete. It needs major components to be installed before you can drive it. And only after you do that will you find out what's wrong with some of the other stuff he's done. The most expensive Jeeps I've ever had were other people's half finished projects I picked up for "cheap". It's likely he's trying to get the dollar value of what he spent on parts back out, which will never happen in a million years. Either that or he's setting the price so high that no one will buy it because he doesn't really want to sell. Sure, a really pristine resto-mod with all the goodies may be worth what's he's asking for all the reasons you talk about. But his is nowhere near that.

I'm more of a computer guy than an EE but I do low level systems software. Embedded control systems and the like. I've been at it for a few decades, working in the trenches with other engineers bringing systems to life and have picked up a few things. That being said, I defer to the real experts for a lot of the detailed information.

There are some options out there for lights with the old school classic look but they are LED based. That's what I'm looking into for my MJ builds.

Yeah, I find that most stock replacement parts are never better. Maybe just as good. But, there's always "upgrade" parts. Someone good at marketing can sell parts for quite a bit more than factory replacements if they have a good gimmick. Sometimes they are actually better than stock. Sometimes.

It all depends on the hose. A simple rubber hose will collapse if the suction by the pump is too much. You can put a spring inside the hose to reinforce it. Or you can design your hose with the reinforcement built in, which is what a number of companies do. Technically yes, all lower radiator hoses need reinforcement of some kind. Whether they need a spring inside depends on the hose.

Think of it like taking a street car and turning it into a drag car. Double the horsepower in your engine and what happens? You start breaking things. Cast cranks don't hold up. Cast connecting arms fail. Pistons start behaving badly. Transmission internals won't like it. Even the transmission case can come apart if it's a light duty transmission to start with. U-Joints don't live as long. The driveshaft can twist. The axle shafts can snap. The ring and pinion start chucking teeth. You can spin axle tubes. Same thing with electricity. Double the power and things not designed to take that much power give out. A lot of what fails in an electrical system tends to be because of the excessive heat generated. But the same concept applies. Bigger power needs stronger parts.