derf

Something like this would be a good option: https://www.mcmaster.com/slow-blow-fuses

One other thought. I seem to remember that automotive "slow burn" fuses exist. I don't know how easy they are to find but they should work to replace a fusible link.

One other option is to replace the fusible links with automotive circuit breakers. Some of them are "slow burn" style and will handle the startup surge without popping. Honestly though, I like fusible links. They don't take up a lot of space, they're easy to connect, and they do their job without any fanfare. You can find the gauge of the fusible link in the factory service manual wiring diagrams easily, and order the fusible link wire online for next to nothing.

I got my eye on that diesel manual if it's up for sale.

An electric motor is rated for a certain voltage and amperage. If you double the voltage, you're likely to double the amperage everything else being equal. When you double the amperage, you overload the wiring inside the motor that wasn't designed to take that much current. When you do that, things get hot and melt. Bye bye electric motor. As far as LEDs, there is the voltage for the LED being a factor. Again, too many volts will burn out something that can't handle it. Resistors are a convenient way to bring that voltage down. And sure, there is a little heat. But an LED has high resistance naturally so it's always a low current circuit. And like Dzimm says, the waste heat coming off the resistor is trivial. It's way less than an incandescent bulb generates. One other thing you may find is an LED turn signal bulb. Trouble is, with the low draw of an LED circuit, you don't get enough current through the the standard flasher so it won't trigger and the light will stay solidly lit. The right way to fix that is with an LED specific flasher module. But you can also wire a resistor in parallel to the LED bulb that will cause it to draw enough power to trip the flasher. Given the ease of finding LED flasher modules, the parallel resistor is more of a "redneck engineering" solution. But it does work.

I wouldn't spend any money on a 242 for a trail rig. Are you dealing with vibrations right now?

For a trail rig, I'd go Atlas. Once you add up all of the upgrades to the 300 (32 spline output shafts, 4:1 gears, etc.) you're better off going with the Atlas. As far as the 4 speed, I had one in my JK with the 11.70 behind the 6 speed manual. It was great for the Pentastar V6 with no low end torque. I took it all over the CO mountains and Moab. The 4.0 has better low end torque and the 11.70 may be overkill. Even with no low end I spent 99% of the time in 4.3 low. A Rubicon transfer case would be a good option as well and it bolts right up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME35sL_pDPA

Always sad to see one go. But it looks like an interesting project is about to start. Give me a shout if you need a hand with anything.

What kind of volume are you talking about?

If there ain't no oil under 'em, there ain't no oil in 'em.

Is it some kind of weaving loom?

It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.

i don't have exact measurements from bumper to back of the axle but I'm estimating maybe 30" of room. Given that, I do have some room to play with some options. There's a tank that's 33.5" wide between the frame rails, 29.75" front to back, and 13.125" tall that could possibly fit. But do I really need a 42 gallon tank from a '98 Suburban? An XJ tank would fit pretty well. An 18 gallon tank from a 98 Blazer is about the same width, a little longer front to back (22" vs 20.75") but it's shorter (10.5" vs 13") so it should tuck in better. It should also have a compatible sender for the fuel gauge and the pump will be good for even a V8 swap.

I've looked at the CJ and YJ tanks. They are shorter top to bottom but only hold 15 gallons. That's probably enough though so they are options for sure. Turns out a replacement TJ tank is hard to come by. Though I may be able to get my hands on a used one... I'm going to keep looking at various other options out there, compiling a list of dimensions of tanks to see what really fits well. When I get the build started, I'll drop a bunch of pictures of what I end up doing. My plan will probably include building some structure to mount the tank as well as having solid mounts for a skid plate that, along with a hitch, will protect the tank.

I've been doing some searching and can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. I've seen some ideas but they weren't quite right. I know I can grab a fuel cell and toss it in the bed and it will work but I don't want to do that. I have plans for the bed and there's no room for a fuel cell taking up space. I'm going to be converting to triangulated 4 link in the back and the links need to go where the fuel tank is now. So the stock location will be otherwise occupied. That leaves the spare location. And I'm not worried about that because I'm going to 40"+ tires so I'm relocating the spare into the bed anyway (part of why there's no room for a fuel cell in the bed). I know dimensions are important so I will point out that I have a short bed. I'm going to keep the stock frame as a base (no tube frame) but I'm not opposed to removing the X frame and replacing it with 2 or 3 gusseted straight members. That would give me a couple of inches to move the tank up so it doesn't hang down so far. My first thought is to do an XJ tank. Get a sender from a compatible year for the gauge to work right but then also make sure I have a good pump for whatever engine ends up in the front (still haven't nailed that part down). 20 gallons is probably plenty for what I'm going to do. I'm also thinking that I could get a skid plate from one of the many aftermarket companies. I suppose a YJ tank would also work and have a choice of skid plates as well. Who has done a "spare" tank swap or has done any research on it? Any advice or links to things I didn't find in my search?

I don't know if I've ever heard anything good about AGR over the last 20 years. Some of their stuff will work fine for a while. They're not all bad. But I've never heard a single person rave about them ever. My go-to on steering is PSC. They have a pretty good reputation. They're not cheap but their stuff works and they have good customer service. Their stuff is overkill for a stock Jeep and I wouldn't spend the money on their upgrade parts to restore a Jeep back to mostly stock specs. Though I will be using their stuff in my build as soon as I can get it started. For stock replacement, I've had good luck with ACDelco parts.

Some interesting data:. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/covid-data/covidview/index.htm

I bet that thing would top out on the road at about 35-40.

Here's the rail on my 01 XJ. Probably not as good for use as bed cargo rails.

True. The problem isn't the religion. It's the people.

Yep. And it's not just Christian preachers. History is full of people taking religious texts of all kinds out of context, including ignoring whole sections, as a means to justify their own selfish interests.