derf

So yeah, I'm doing this next MJ build differently. I'm planning ahead. I know what I want.out of this build and what it will take to do it. So I started listing all of the parts I'm going to need to get it done. And that includes the prices for everything. All added up in a spreadsheet. Don't ever do it this way. You'll get discouraged before you even get started. It's going to take me a couple years to have this much cash together...

On the one hand, it's important to keep an open mind and recognize quality fabrication work that may not be visually appealing to you personally. On the other hand...

Nothing special but I picked up some roller wheels and tires. They're small enough I should be able to get it out of the garage when it's lifted. It won't fit out the door if it's on 40s...

It's probably on Harbor Freight jack stands.

I was trying to link the whole soundtrack playlist. It's always a favorite.

We're on a mission from God.

Basic fare today. Dogs, brats, and burgers. It's the first time I've run the grill in years. They turned out good.

That would have come with a plate like mine. Otherwise there should be some numbers stamped on it somewhere that you can decode.

Could also be an M6000 or XD9000 (not the XD9000i). I'm not sure of the best way to tell the difference without the plate next to the engagement lever. I've gone through a couple of 100ft cables on my ~18 year old XD9000. I'm on a synthetic one now. Pretty much any regular winch cable will work. The remotes are pretty much universal. The newer winches started using a newer controller with some smarts built in. But the older ones are just straight 4 pin and you can easily get a new one.

Two options close by: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/castle-rock-amc-eagle-wagon-4x4/7150773124.html https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/colorado-springs-amc-eagle/7139346023.html

Speaking as an engineer myself, I can say with some authority that engineers make some weird decisions for all kinds of reasons. It made sense to someone to do it that way. What that reason was I have no idea.

A relay is just a switch. You can have it interrupt a ground wire just the same as a +12V wire.

So, no rear steer. I picked up a Dana 80 today. It's from a cab & chassis F350. 70" WMS so it'll match my front 60 perfectly.

Mine's close to that. 23 front to back and I haven't yet measured side to side but it's about that.

I gotta say this. Moving sucks. That is all.

Stopping on the other hand...

I remember those days. Back when MTV used to play music.

I already have a new box of 1000' of cat6 ethernet wire to run a couple of things in my house anyway so I'm planning POE cameras since I'll be in the attic pulling cable anyway.

The garage is coming along nicely

Yep. I'm at Castle Rock right near the outlet malls. Easy access to I25 for the offices in Lone Tree. If I have to go to Waterton, I just head up Santa Fe. And I have everything I need just blocks from the house. Very convenient. Best part is that it's technically an unincorporated area and has no HOA so I have more freedom to do what I want. Thing about wireless is that it's a fixed set of frequencies. All you need is an easy to build transmitter to broadcast noise on the channels and your wireless is down. No amount of encryption will prevent the underlying radio frequency from being overwhelmed where no data can get through, encrypted or otherwise. Encryption only matters when it comes to breaking in to the channel. But if you just want to bring down wireless cameras without hacking them, it's pretty easy.

I'm looking at doing the same thing. I'm moving into the new house on Friday and that's one of the things I want to set up. I'd prefer to use a wired camera setup though. Jamming a wireless camera is far too easy.

I lump the CJ10 in with the SJ Gladiator/M715/J trucks. It was built on a J10 frame. If you call a scrambler a truck then every CJ and wrangler would be one. The only thing that made it a "truck" was the half cab, which you can do on any of the others.

Thanks. That helps. Sort of.... I'm working out a cage/suspension plan and I want to use that point as a "node" that ties underneath to the frame and has a mount for coil-overs. The bed would sit on a plate there. On top of the wheel well and bolted through to the suspension mount I want a cross bar "strut tower brace" and also custom tube coming back from the top of the exo-cage behind the cab. But I also want to be able to use the bed so knowing where the cross over bar would sit helps know what I have to work around. It's lower than I want but I have a couple different ideas on how to work with it where it would sit.

Yeah, just looking at the distance from the floor to where a factory roll bar would sit. Short bed, with the flat face on the top of the wheel well. I'm bored at work and thinking up a plan for my MJ build now that I'm moving into my own house and can get started.