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Not the whole frame but I've worked on cut and shortened frames. Best thing to do is to weld on temporary reinforcement bars on the parts you are going to keep. That keeps them aligned so they can go together easier and have a better chance to be straight. Once you've got the frame welded up, the bars get cut off. Get measurements before hand. Lots of them. Measure distances to fixed points like suspension mounting points. Measure the angles (top and side) on both sides of the cuts so you can get it back together straight. Measure diagonally to ensure you're square. The more measurements you have, the better the finished product will turn out. Make sleeves for the weld point for extra strength. Either that or butt weld the pieces and then weld on reinforcement plates around the outside covering the joints. You want the joints to be stronger than the factory metal. Just like a paint job, the prep work takes 90% of the time and makes all the difference.

Tail lights and license plate lights. All connectors intact. Let me know what zip code and I can get some shipping quotes. Or I can do a flat rate box for maybe $15 or so, I'd have to look ot work.

I have one from a junkyard pull that I'm not going to use. I can probably toss it in a box and ship it to you for a reasonable price.

That's my theme song.

How much weight are you planning on putting in it? It's sheet metal so it has its limits but it's a small space so I wouldn't expect you would have much that will fit back there. You could always build a box that rests on the floor and just attaches to the wall to keep from tipping when you fold the seat forward. Then you could put a bunch of weight in without worrying about it. Even if it just had some legs rather than fitting to the floor, it might be a better design.

Get the thickest radiator you can fit. More surface area means more cooling. Get a regular (not high flow) water pump. More time in the radiator means better cooling. Get a good mechanical fan in the stock location. Mechanical fans move more air and more air means more cooling. Put the factory shroud around the mechanical fan. It improves air flow by a significant amount. More air means more cooling. Replace the factory electric fan with the highest CFM fan you can find that fits there and use a good shroud. More air.... you know the drill. Add vents on the hood or fenders. Better air flow... Add an oil cooler. Maybe look at one you can mount under the bed or on the frame rail away from the engine bay (and exhaust). Using different air to cool it will make it more efficient.

Yeah, looking at those, I'm going to pass. The set of 3 is for an XJ with a tailgate. That's not good for the ignition switch. And all of the Crown locks use non-standard square head keys for the door locks instead of the oval head. I'll probably do OEM or just have my factory units rebuilt locally.

I had good luck with an oil cooler helping me keep temps under control.

How do I actually get them online? All the websites I've tried so far don't go back far enough.

Part of the work on my 87 will involve getting new door lock and ignition cylinders. I found some on Rockauto but it looks like the key for the doors is for the 91 and newer. I'd prefer to use the GM style key that it had from the factory. Where is a good place to buy replacement lock cylinders with keys? How expensive/difficult would it be to have a locksmith repair/rekey the ones I have?

Meh. I wouldn't. Looks out of place on anything but a CJ/Wrangler to me. But it's your Jeep. If you want to put a star on it, go for it.

Yeah, I didn't think about your build thread. I've slept since the last time I read it. However, an engine built up like that is going to generate a lot more heat than stock. More power = more heat no matter what you do. There's two ways to improve cooling on an engine when everything is working properly. 1. More surface area, i.e. bigger radiator; 2. More air flow. There's only so much you can do about #1 without major modifications to the front end. #2 is probably where you have to put your efforts. Getting the highest volume fans you can find whether they are electrical or mechanical is a minimum. And fans work much more effectively when they have the right shroud around them. Removing obstructions from in front of the radiator is also key. Lights, winches on bumpers, etc. block air flow. Get them out of the way. Finally, give the air some place to go once it's through the radiator. Hood vents, side fender vents, remove any shields under the engine. Give the air a way to escape and it will naturally flow more air.

Another thing to consider is your air/fuel mix. Throw on a wideband O2 sensor and see how lean you're running. Running too lean will make your engine run hot. If your fuel system is partially clogged you may not be getting enough fuel and you're running too lean. Run lean enough and no cooling system can keep up.

One thing that can be overlooked is the block itself. Have you done anything to clean out the corrosion that's built up over the years? Load up your cooling system with Evapo Rust and let it sit for 24 hours. Then flush it really well and refill with 50/50 mix. You'll be surprised at what comes out and how much better it cools afterwords.

It is hard to beat the air flow from a good mechanical fan with a good clutch and intact shroud.

Makes sense. Lots of room under the hood for test gear.

The SJ never came with a 4.0. They ran the 258 until they dropped it in the late 80s. The XJ/MJ platform was the first with the 4.0 and the only one with Renix. The YJ got the HO in 91.

Ya gotta be careful which way you orient your phrases...

I'm still in the parts accumulation phase on my build. I suppose I could start a thread there.

BTW, the wheel studs I ordered are DORMAN 610449 from Rockauto. I also have had zero problems with the parking brake cables. I bought the Teraflex cables they sell to go along with their kit. The cable is always under enough tension that nothing ever comes apart.

On the XJ I didn't have that problem. Like evey disc brake kit I had to get longer wheel studs. The 44 has really short studs.

That looks like the kit I bought.

Maybe not a bad idea to get some of these, as suggested in the FB thread: https://www.amazon.com/Blazecut-BlazeCut-System-Meter-T200E/dp/B088HFRT5D/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=blazecut&qid=1600374874&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/BlazeCut-Automatic-Suppression-Automotive-Extinguisher/dp/B019ZZMXAA/ref=psdc_13400621_t1_B088HFRT5D

I did the Teraflex kit on my XJ Dana44 last year. I don't remember if I ordered the spacers with the kit or if the kit just came with the spacers. But it all bolted up and is performing well.

I would suggest doing a side-by-side comparison of the ratios with a calculator that tells you everything you need to know: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Plug in your information and compare the ratios side by side. The best bet for the most accurate results is to find the "revolutions per mile" for your tire. The P-metric numbers are rarely correct. And the advertised outside diameter is also almost always wrong. But the revolutions per mile tends to be pretty accurate. I usually go to tirerack.com and look up the exact tire I'm running. In the specs they have a column for revolutions per mile. Plug that in and play with the axle ratios to see how they run.