derf

I wonder if the forum software that resizes the pictures drops the rotation value.

This has been an ongoing thing with pictures. Some phones leave the picture oriented the way the phone is but save a "rotation" value in the picture data so they don't have to rearrange the whole file when you rotate the camera. Some programs ignore the rotation value so the picture shows up rotated the wrong way. You would think that they could all get their act together but they don't.

There is a Terraflex kit to upgrade the Dana 44. It's $700 or so and it takes different parking brake cables. You can do it a lot cheaper with junkyard parts. As far as the booster, I believe it is bolt in but don't quote me. One of the sticky threads should link to a thread that has all you need to know.

A lot of disk brake setups have a drum brake for the parking brake. Do you have that and do you clean it out?

Having done the Teraflex disk brake swap on my 2001 XJ (with a rear Dana 44 from an 80's XJ), I would say that you don't see a huge improvement in braking over a properly adjusted rear drum. Of course, the "self adjusters" never really work well so the rear drums always seem to be soft. The disks are self adjusting so they stay in better adjustment over the long term. And replacing the pads is a whole lot easier. So there are some up sides to having disks in the rear. But I had to step up to 16" wheels because the stock wheels rubbed a bit, and I had to install longer wheel studs (Dorman 610449) in my Dana 44 to deal with the thicker rotors. Also, no matter what, when you do a disk brake upgrade in the rear, you want at least a new master cylinder designed for disks. It's a perfect opportunity to upgrade to the 97?+ dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from an XJ, as well as a good time to fully flush the whole system with fresh fluid.

I was in it mostly because I liked to go camping, even in the winter snow. I went to the Jamboree in '85, which was fun. Got to be there as a hurricane blew through. Also, I think that was the year the guy cut off 3 toes demonstrating axe safety. The next year we went to Philmont. Lightning hit near us one night and blew up a huge tree. Big chunks of wood scattered over maybe 50 feet radius. We picked them up and had an enormous courtesy pile for the next troop. I got out of scouting what I wanted. I never really got interested in going up in rank. But once I hit high school I lost interest. The scoutmaster's kid was on a quest to earn every single merit badge available. He was almost there by the time I left.

Every time I see those grills on a Jeep I'm reminded of Toy Story 2. https://youtu.be/BBFqGHgCFiY

We did get to the top of baldy. But that was 35 years ago. These days I'll take the Jeep up to the top of the mountains. That was my troop. A few guys got their Eagle but most dropped out before. There wasn't a big push for anyone to really accomplish anything.

I think our route was 62 miles. One of our intended leaders failed the physical so one of the other kids' dad was a last minute replacement.

I don't remember what rank I eventually stopped at but it was just enough to qualify to do the Jamboree in '85 (the one where the hurricane blew through) and Philmont in '86. Quit shortly after getting into OA.

If you had a 35, I would say yes absolutely. The 44 and 8.8 are very close to each other in strength. Enough that the swap isn't worth the time and money to do it. You can always do a disc brake upgrade on the 44 for less than it will take to get the 8.8 in and working.

After a couple of cases where all of my Jeeps had issues and I had to think about whether I could get to work or not, I bought a 2019 Subaru Crosstrek. A new car that I'm not going to modify and one with a warranty makes a good daily driver.

Solder won't hold up compared to a crimp.

I've been at an airfield where the plane has been parked. It's pretty cool.

Definitely a turbodiesel short bed to go wheeling with. Probably with an automatic, sport bar, bucket seats, and a bunch of other goodies. I'd swap in late 70s F150 axles with a spring over and run 35-37" tires. Also a metric ton long bed diesel with the 5 speed (if available) and bucket seats to be a daily driver/working truck.

People who know scandinavian cuisine will get this immediately. If you don't know about lutefisk, google it.

There are valves inside the shocks that control how firm or stiff they are in both compression and rebound. Different types of shocks have different size valves to give you a firmer or softer ride. Some are even adjustable so you can dial up or down how stiff the shock is by just turning a knob on the outside of the shock.

You posted as I was typing. It's not hard to find some kind of ferrule that you can crimp on with a crimping tool. Getting them off is easy if you don't mind making the cable a little shorter. Otherwise, you could cut off the existing ferrule and crimp a new one on.

Are you talking about the steel cable inside the sleeve from the cruise unit to the throttle body? The one that pulls the throttle open?

The YJ perches are an inch to inch and a half narrower.

I'd be interested in the button cover.

Not much. It would be rare to find someone who is willing to give much more than $20 a wheel unless they were in mint condition

The half ton market has been taken over by the suburbanites and as a result they are less able to function as a working truck. You still can get a pretty bare bones "work truck" in the 3/4 and 1 ton lines that are for the most part good trucks to use around the farm. There is very little in the way of fancy gadgets inside the cab of these base model trucks. Seats, a steering wheel, probably a radio, heater and AC controls, and that's about it. We are never going to get away from computerized engines and transmissions. And at this point, there really is no need to. It's stupid easy to get a scan tool to tell you what code the computer is throwing and a quick search to find out what it means. These systems have been in place for over 20 years. The only reason not to know how to deal with them comes down to refusal to learn. Having grown up with carburetors and having watched the evolution of fuel injection over the last 40 years, I'd take a modern truck over an old one any time. Even if you compare new vs new, I'll take the modern truck. Reliability, driveability, fuel economy, power, everything is better with modern trucks. You don't have to constantly tinker with a carburetor going out of adjustment. So many older engines were whipped when you hit only 100,000 miles. I remember having to warm up the engine before you could drive anywhere in the winter. Now you just get in and go. And sure, we're not getting 100 MPG, but high teens is a vast improvement over the maybe 10 MPG you get in an old truck. Then there's the fact that modern small blocks are making as much torque as the big blocks of the 70s. All while spewing out a bunch less noxious crap out of the tailpipe. This hummer is a stupid truck designed for people who want flash. And they'll sell out of them because there's a market segment that wants them. I don't blame GM for making it because they're going to make a ton of money off them and that's what they're in business for. But beyond that, they're developing technology that will make it into other vehicles over time, much like new features show up in Cadillacs first and then trickle down to the other brands. I also get the desire for a lot of people who want a work truck to do work. Makes sense. That's what trucks are for. But at some point, there are just some people who have the attitude that change is bad and that we shouldn't change anything because "CHANGE BAD!!!". Trouble is, the world is changing whether they like it or not and they're just leaving themselves behind.