75sv1

I have used Timken, MOOG from NAPA, and SKF, also F(l)AG. Remove the 'l'. NAPA sells them. The MOOG from NAPA list made in MEXICO. SKF and Timken are what I'd use. Although I hear Timken might not be the quality they used to be. Still, no issues with the ones I have used on those I listed. Then again, I drove a few years on a Chinese one from NAPA. It was paired with the MOOG. Also, you can use latter ones for the 2000-2001 XJs. You would need to change the brake rotors to the latter ones. The V2507449A does not seem listed for XJs or MJ. I think PT Cruisers.

You are correct. Mine is also a 2" lift with lots of aftermarket parts. Mine is probably as well built or better than other taller lifts. I would like to see a head on shot of the setup. Particularly the track bar bracket. From the photo, it looks to lean a bit out. Could be the camera angle. Also, it would help to know what make is the trackbar setup. Also, is the steering wheel centered? Or does the axle need to be shifted a bit???

I was describing my 'issue' with the XJ I have (as seen in Carlise) and my solution. The OP did not list what lift he has.

sway bar problem - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association Don't know if this is your post on NAXJA. I am looking at the 50mm. It looks to me, that is a shock mount. ???? I am having a similar problem. Mine is that I have Ruff Stuff front frame stiffeners and Bad Dad Fab front hidden winch bumper. so, 3/16 + 3/16 = 3/8 added to one side of the frame rail. My plan is to use a WJ sway bar. They are ro8ughly 5 inches wider. So, 2-2.5 width per side. I do have a set of JKS QDs. I also went with an OME WJ sway bar. It is actually 28mm like the HD swaybar for the XJ/MJ. I have some fixed or adjustable sway bar links I plan to modify and use. I do have Ironman 4X4 sway bar brackets, as I run an OTK setup on that XJ. Way over kill on a 2" lift. Still, some of the curves I take in WV, it is justified. Maybe ask the Ford Truck that resides down the mountain on my property. I think they removed the motorcycle from about 5 years back.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Try a search on that link. I'd also pull the engine and see if it can use a back yard rebuild. IE new bearings. Its what I did on one of my XJs when the crank went bad due to a defective harmonic balance. Also, I seriously doubt you would get the money you want if it is not running.

I did just the WJ Pump. That made a difference. I was going to do it on my present XJ on 31's. My steering is fairly tight. So, I'm leaving well enough alone. Still, I'll probably use it on the MJ, when I get it going.

I haven't done the Durango box. I do have one that I rebuilt for this purpose. From my moch ups and web search, you need to space out the steering box spacer. Best to upgrade, as the OD of the Durango box is a bit larger. Also, the 1999+ Grand Cherokee WJ is a lot different. From what I see in the PnPs totally different Gear Box. I think the YJ and Full Size Cherokee boxes would work. They are beefier, have a 4th hole. I plan one on my next XJ build. Also, S-10 boxes.

I looked on Car Parts Inc., It separated them about '87-95. Never know why. I looked at Rock Auto. Showed 84-2001 as the same. So, I'd say it would fit.

I do have a set of RE front springs. I have not installed them. Still, they are highly rated. Old Man EMU, possibly Metal Cloak, Currie, but $$. Also, don't expect a bunch of HP improvement on the 4.0L. That is unless Stroker or forced induction. Although, some have upped the Fuel PSI, with adjustable regulator or a stock one with a higher setting. You'd have to search for the 99+ intake and Jordan88 on Mall Crawler.

RENIX will bore to 58mm. I think someone bores to 60mm. I think Leigh's.

The Grand Marque or Crown Vic as suggested. I think 25-27 mpg hiway. I'd also check out GM products with the 3000 engine. I think 27 to 30 mpg highway.

OK, Bore TB, yes, makes an improvement. I have a 60mm on my 2000 XJ, I bored. I also thinned the throttle shaft on it, last trip. I seemed a bit better. I seem to notice the improvement on going up inclines. I also have the 99+ intake on my '98 XJ. 4.10's with 31's is good. I do have the Ironman steering brace. It is beefy. I did run if for a while on my '98 XJ. Yes, get a steel steering box spacer. Iron Rock or Ironman are good ones. I think the Ironman one is a bit better. It has a 4th hole. Have you replaced spark plugs and O2 sensor(s)? Wires, cap and rotor replace with brass ones. Also, the temp sensor in the thermostat housing? Check fuel pressure?

I'll have to let you know next time I'm in town. Also, there is a Comanche on the way to Elkins.

I used NGK on my '98 and 2000 XJs. I did have Champion Truck Plugs in the '98. I think the insulators break very easy. I think they have obsoleted them or NAPA stopped carrying them. For wire: Magnecor USA – Spark Plug Wires Still, Some of the Performance wires, Taylor, Morso etc. would be good. Also, get cap and rotor with brass.

6 post down from the top of this the Pub Section. I'm in Indiana. I do have property in Webster Springs.

First, what year? That has a dependence on wheel bearings or hub bearing. If hub bearings, I like SKF and (ok brain freeze). Then NAPA has F(L)AG. It is not their top of the line. I think I have one of them and an SKF on my 2000 XJ. I bought a set of ball joints off of E-Bay. I have not installed them. Metal construction and US made. I have used Alloy USA, M (ok blanking again) TTKs and XFRs. There's another brand I think I'd try after a discussion or thread on another site. I have not had any issues with those I've listed. The XFR, I do not like the grease joints provided and their placement. Synergy and Terra Flex(???) had better zerke fitting placement from pictures. Synergy and Terra Flex(???) have the option of non serrated or splines ball joints. So, just like stock.

Also, I'd expect you to be at 2300 rpm at 70 mph with 3.73's and the manual. I'm at 2200, with an auto.

Since your in Montana, I think the 3.73 might work out better for you. My experiences are with auto trans and WV. On The same tire I have 3.73's with an auto. A bit weak on some mountain inclines. Intake and exhaust improvements help. This is on a 2000 XJ. I still have a few inclines that I need to drop down from D to 3rd. On a '98, I had a similar problem, with 4.10's and 31's. I did basically, the same exhaust intake improvements. It ran good. So, since I think you will have some mountain passes to get over, I think the 3.73's with your manual would work out better. You might loose a bit of MPG. my though is 1/2 MPG. My intake and exhaust improvements are, bore to 60mm TB, 2.5 cat back, 99+ intake and a header.

No, I used their Drive Side drop. It might or should work. They guy who does my fabbing, has it set up, just not welded. I think TnT ot Artec said to use their Ford Truss as a universal.

Yes, that is my plan. I also plan to run the exhaust straight back. I think the OP should look at a trust setup to adapt the Waggy 44. Barnes, Tnt and Artec, I think make truss kits for the driver side drop Waggy 44.

I have Bilstien 5100 on an XJ, a bit stiff for road use to me. I also have KYB Monomax on another XJ, a bit less stiff than Bil 5100s. Still, stiff though. I did have some KYB silver shocks (stock) on a stock XJ. A bit stiffer than stock, but controller that XJ well. I think I had TJ take offs on the rear of that one. I might look at Bilstein 4300 or Doetsch-Tech. I haven't used them though.

I've been in the process of this for several years. Part of my issue is that mine Waggy 44 is a passenger side drop. No one makes a setup for that. I went with Barnes on for the Drive side drop. I have someone working on it. I plan to keep the 6 on 5. I did not read the others articles.

I'd also check the master cylinder. There is a seal at the Booster end.

Kind of fitting on a Jeep board. I see a fair number of XJs on the road. Look at other makes. I use to see some MB W123's around. Now mine gets a few looks. My oldest is a 75. Newest a 2015 Volt. I will agree with the cost of new vehicles.

I might also look into some steering upgrades. If I did a lift, it would only be 2". With spacers for a Ford 8.8, I'd make captured ones, so the need for extended stud screws. Or Yukon makes an upgraded axle shafts. They extend out 1" on each side.