75sv1

I filled in some data on that spread sheet. I used AX-15, 231 TC, 32's. @55-1871 rpms. @65- 2211 RPMs. @ 70 - 2381 RPMs. A bit higher than say stock, but not much. The OP could select gears, say 4th and cruise at those RMPs. See what noise factor of NVH is.

There are drop down to select transmission, TC, etc. I think also metric tires. I would have though a manual trans would want the same RPM as the auto 4.0L. Same motor. I do think the manual trans up to the 2010 gave 'better' power, than the autos though. A stock MJ/XJ is fairly capable. I would also wonder if the tires grow a bit in diameter at highway speeds. I reference drag cars. The other aspects the OP needs to consider is Noise at Highway speeds and MPG. I think 4.10's and 32-33's would be about stock ratio. Other aspects as C(6 ply) vs E (10 ply) and width or overall weight would come into play. I think maybe 1 mpg possibly more with bigger tires. I am getting between 17.5 and 18.5 on my 2000 XJ lifted 2", 245-75-16's Auto and 3.73's. I'm on E rated tires. Also, if the OP looks at Transfer case gearing to 4:1. Might help wheeling. So, I think with your 33's and 4.10's we are on the same page with a manual trans.

Gear Ratio Calculator (grimmjeeper.com) That's the one I reference. For a stock gearing, 55 is 1800 rpm, 60 is 2000 rpm and 70 is 2200 rpm.

The Ford 8.8 does come with disc brakes in the later years. Both of mine did. As far as LS, I have LS on both of my XJs with the Ford 8.8. It did OK this last year, which I wheeled twice. If you are going to do a lot of wheeling and heavy wheeling, then no. My neighbor wheeled his ZJ a bit rough. He told be he burned out the LS clutches in the Ford 8.8 after 3 times wheeling. He put in a Tru-Trac. My plans are to keep the LS in my '00XJ and add a front selectable locker. Probably an electric OX. For another build, I'll probably end up with True Trac in the rear and a slectable in the front. On the MJ, ???. I think the Dana 44 out of the ISUZU has limited slip. Since I don't plan to wheel it, it will probably be kept LS. Front??? I might see about cost. I'll need to regear it. I have a Waggy PSD being done.

I notice both poster have manuals. I have an XJ with 4.10 gears, Ford 8.8 rear with LS. Its an auto. A bit spunky on 31's. I'm on metric now. They are about 32.5" or so. Possibly about stock ratio. So, a bit 'under powered'. I with my Comanche, I am going with 4.10's and 32-33's. Its a manual. I think I'll be OK. It would depend on location and intent of use. I notice OP is in Utah. I would think some mountain passes and such. Also, if a wheeler. Then I might think of going with 4.30's or 4.56. I did wheel with my XJ. I was in 4W Hi. I didn't have any issues. I did get stuck once or twice. Lift and tire size. You could install the 8.8, and run as 2wd to see if the 4.10s are OK for you. Also, I doubt there is much strength difference between the Ford 8.8 and the Chrysler 8.25, if the 8.25 is a latter one, 97+ (??). Axles spines.

I won't have to ship to Poland.

I went to the NAXJA Winterfest this past year. It was muddy. I did get stuck once and near stuck a few other times. Some of the rigs were using snow tire chains. I think the synthetic chains were suppose to be better than the metal ones. I will say my MJ seemed to do fine in snow with regular M&S tires. Near what the FWD cars I drove at the time.

Also, for winter, I'd suggest either snow tires or 3Peaks. I run 3 peaks on both of my XJs. I haven't really had a good test in the past few years though. Also, you might check into a front winch for farm work. Sort of another kettle of fish though.

I haven't got to that part yet. I plan to use cross over steering. I'll have to change the passenger side knuckle, so I can put on and arm there. I'll probably use 1-ton Chevy TREs, thread inserts. Look at Ruffstuff Chevy 1-ton steering kit. I use those on both of my XJs. Also, might look at Stinky Fab and Ironman 4X4.

I use the MOPAR ones on my 2000 XJ. I run a 3 row radiator. The aftermarket ones are a bit wider. So, the fan in nearer the radiator.

As suggested, try and find a Local Jeep Club. In my case, one of the locals does good work for less than a Full shop. Also, some members might have parts available. Here's a link to get ideas for parts: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Also, I'd see what a locker in the rear would cost. Sort of a way to gain some traction. Also, you could factor in 'upgrades'. As suggested lifting.I'd add in an external slave cylinder. Possibly a better axle if you have a D35. Add say regearing if going with bigger tires. You could do this in steeps. Say a 2" budget boost and 31's. Find a rear axle from an Auto Manche. Maybe add a locker or find one with. Also, you might loose a bit of MPG. I'd say 1 mpg highway.

I also have a Hella and a Carrillo head lights in my MB 240D. Both are good. I hear Bosch make a good H4 headlight too.

My problem was specifically the relays. I mounted them vertically. Possibly if I mounted them horizontally. I tired to zip tie them up. I tried replacement relays. The non metal or plastic ones do not ground. Daniel Stern Light does sell a parts kit. I think $80.

I'm leery of the 'Import' harnesses. Many have had good good luck with them. On mine, the plugs would come out of the relays. Not good.

I am running Cibie's on one of my XJs. I really like them. They are not available any more. Daniel Stern use to sell them. He carries some from Japan now. I also running a wiring upgrade. $$$. I have also run the Autopals with and without the wiring upgrade. 2X stock without and 4X with wiring upgrade. A bit less cutoff than the Cibbies, still good. I think I have Rampage on an XJ without wiring upgrade. The low beams are good. The high beams seem diffused. I don't have any experience with the LEDs. I think Osram makes some at about the price of what the OP listed. Osram does make regular H4 bulbs. Those are some of the higher grade bulbs. I run Flossers presently though.

I'd wonder if taken to an extreme, if they can see through the front windshield. There was a hill in Tulsa that I'd drive over in my Bricklin. I'd lose front view for a second or two.

Happened to me too. I was having fits with DW. Tried a bunch of stuff. It was ripping off my OTK trackbar. Finally cleaned off the grease and saw it. Mine is just some welds on there. I would agree that some frame stiffeners would be a good idea. On my next and present builds I put some frame stiffeners on. Actually it started that the rear frame was rusted out on the bottom. I put Hooligans on the rear, IRO on the mid, and Ruff Stuff on the front. My next build, I have Hooligans, mid and front, and IRO rear. I don't know if I'll change the IRO rears. They are 10 ga. Hooligans are 3/16. I also, used T&M inner stiffeners. It would also, depend on what your build is. If stock, then the 10 ga would be more than fine. Plenty of choices in frame stiffeners. I do have steering box braces on both of my builds. The MORE posted would be good. There are others, more robust. Ironman and Boostwerks. $$$ though. Also, replace the gear box spacer with steel one. XJ – Hooligan Off Road

I'd drive around with your present setup in 3rd. See if the noise is acceptable. Also, 4.56 might lose you 1/2 mpg to 1 mpg.

I have an XJ that's a 2" lift. I tried to keep it on a budget. Didn't happen. I went with 2" springs from IRO on the front. I went with Crown Upcountry leaves in the rear. Yeah, not going to work for you. I did try KYB Monomax shocks for the front. They are almost as stiff as Bilstein 5100s. I'd possibly look at Bilstein 4600s, or Doetsch Tech shocks. I did like the Silver KYBs on my stock XJ. Stiffer than stocks, but just firm.

Gear Ratio Calculator (grimmjeeper.com) That's the Gear Ratio chart I use. I do have an XJ on 32-33"s. I have 4.10's and run in WV. I'd say at 70 mpg 2250 rpms. At 55 rpms, I'm about 2000 rpms. I do feel a bit sluggish with 4.10 gears and 32.5" tires. Some of this is a power issue. When I was on 31's and 4.10's, I still had issues on some inclines. I did have the 99+ horse shoe intake and a 2.5 exhaust and header. I still had to downshift. I bores out the TB to 60mm. Then it was good. When I went to 32.5" tires, it still does OK. But it does seem sluggish. I did plan to go to 4.30 gears. Still, I want to see what a stroker motor will do with this combo. Also, some of the passes out West, are well steep. I'm thinking of Raton pass on the CO, NM border. I would be tempted with 4.56 gears. It might buzz a bit.

I have used Timken, MOOG from NAPA, and SKF, also F(l)AG. Remove the 'l'. NAPA sells them. The MOOG from NAPA list made in MEXICO. SKF and Timken are what I'd use. Although I hear Timken might not be the quality they used to be. Still, no issues with the ones I have used on those I listed. Then again, I drove a few years on a Chinese one from NAPA. It was paired with the MOOG. Also, you can use latter ones for the 2000-2001 XJs. You would need to change the brake rotors to the latter ones. The V2507449A does not seem listed for XJs or MJ. I think PT Cruisers.

You are correct. Mine is also a 2" lift with lots of aftermarket parts. Mine is probably as well built or better than other taller lifts. I would like to see a head on shot of the setup. Particularly the track bar bracket. From the photo, it looks to lean a bit out. Could be the camera angle. Also, it would help to know what make is the trackbar setup. Also, is the steering wheel centered? Or does the axle need to be shifted a bit???

I was describing my 'issue' with the XJ I have (as seen in Carlise) and my solution. The OP did not list what lift he has.

sway bar problem - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association Don't know if this is your post on NAXJA. I am looking at the 50mm. It looks to me, that is a shock mount. ???? I am having a similar problem. Mine is that I have Ruff Stuff front frame stiffeners and Bad Dad Fab front hidden winch bumper. so, 3/16 + 3/16 = 3/8 added to one side of the frame rail. My plan is to use a WJ sway bar. They are ro8ughly 5 inches wider. So, 2-2.5 width per side. I do have a set of JKS QDs. I also went with an OME WJ sway bar. It is actually 28mm like the HD swaybar for the XJ/MJ. I have some fixed or adjustable sway bar links I plan to modify and use. I do have Ironman 4X4 sway bar brackets, as I run an OTK setup on that XJ. Way over kill on a 2" lift. Still, some of the curves I take in WV, it is justified. Maybe ask the Ford Truck that resides down the mountain on my property. I think they removed the motorcycle from about 5 years back.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Try a search on that link. I'd also pull the engine and see if it can use a back yard rebuild. IE new bearings. Its what I did on one of my XJs when the crank went bad due to a defective harmonic balance. Also, I seriously doubt you would get the money you want if it is not running.