eaglescout526

Lol. Like this?

If we are on the topic of the actual manual crank regulators, I would like to say they don't. They look to different. But might be useful for parts. But give it a shot. Be mindful, no one is making these anymore. Actually. Studying that image makes me wonder if that twist is a flexible tube of some sorts that if straightened could match the same length of the front regulator.

I say if it seems funky to you, I would check for some play in the steering components like the track bar.

Check the ground and if it is intermittent wipers, unplug the black box module/governor and plug the two ends together and see if you have wipers. If not then the motor could be bad or need regrease or the linkage bushings fell apart. So there’s a few things to check.

Use the snipping tool to capture stuff. That’s how I snag stuff from the catalogue when I look up parts.

That’s a good idea. I thought about JB welding those clips into place just so they never move again. As for the Bendix, if that is still made at all that would be awesome to still get them. Those should be the original ones AMC used.

Well. The drivers side bed took me the whole weekend to sand. Got the decal removed with that rubber eraser for the drill. Dropped the trans and fixed my slave cylinder issue. Hate these things and how they pop out. I should be good for a while. Now what sucks is one of my fog lamps glass broke, so replacing that glass is like replacing a Marchal. Anyways the progress shall continue without this trans hiccup.

Can a Bendix one still be had though?

I wonder who 80995 is?

If any manu info it probably may be a vendor number somewhere on the part number tag. Even then that’s something I would have to call Chrysler for. I might have to get a luk slave cyl but money of course had to be tight at the moment so I had to go with the crown. There’s an upside to my current issue, this allows me to replace the rear main seal as I’m sure it is 30 years old and I was having an oil leak issue on the free way a while back

Which brands are garbage, hit or miss and worth the money? Course the slave cylinder is a flawed set up to begin with. Luk seems to be good and worth your money if you have some laying around. Probably should buy them more often but they are more expensive outside of the clutch kit if your clutch is in fine shape or just replaced. Crown will get you out a bind but is a hit or miss(crown one just failed me after installing it back on June 17th. Noted in my build) Napa is like the crown. I think the crown failed the same way this one did, line popped out of the cylinder causing fluid loss. Any others to note for their quality?

Nope. It’s already there. Just swap out the pulley for the pump when you go to install it all.

If you can find the parts, I would do so. There’s also no need to hunt down a special power steering bracket. The 2.5L should already have it as a idler pulley closest to the TB. That’s where the power steering pump goes.

Yes. You just need the 4 wheel drive version of your trans, transfer case and the front axle that matches the gear ratio of the rear. Or you can upgrade to the AX5 5 speed with 4 wheel drive.

Wouldn't we use only green in our MJ's? Not just because age but just because that was the only coolant that existed for automobiles. Can we even run any of the other colors?

You’re welcome. Much better looking on your truck than mine. Fits the style and off road look you have than the restoration I’m going for.

Blessing in disguise?

Well you can remove the shifter one of two ways. One under the dust boot is a retainer you push down on and twist in I think counter clockwise direction. The other is to just unbolt the four bolts that hold the shifter in place without fighting that retainer while laying or barely sitting up under the truck.

Actually yes. But the threads were screwed up when I got her. Who ever did front end work screwed up the alignment on the steering wheel and broke the original cam canceller horn spring and just shoved the wheel back on straight without straightening the whole steering. So someone messed the threads up before me. I was solving an age old problem that existed before my ownership. Course I don't understand how you mess threads up. Screw off bolt, pull off steering wheel, replace steering wheel, tighten down bolt. I doubt it was my grandfather but my dad always say "Who knows what your grandfather did to that truck".

I saw this video when it came out. It was pretty neat.

Ok problem solved. I bought a large diameter dap and dye set and took one of the replacement steering wheel nuts and matched it and then cut the threads to match the nut. Now I no longer have a wibbly wobbly steering wheel. Sorry that is not your fix adjustable steering guys.

1. 84-90 front end. 91-96 is a bit different but still bolts up. 2. 2.5L power steering, trans and t case unless you swap in a 4.0. 3. Anything past the doors is Comanche specific and Renix stuff is becoming harder and harder to find. Some interior pieces are Comanche specific too.

Huh. Knowledge gained. Could’ve sworn Chrysler would’ve changed the spline output at some point for the 2.5L.

I've had some people ask about LR and I've had two XJ owners appreciate her. Jeep wave is dead here. 97-01 XJ owners don't care. YJ owners shrug. TJ owners just daily and modern Jeep people are just ignorant. Had one butthead come up to the door and ask if I'm selling her. Had another one ask the same at a gas station. Both were Hispanic wanting a work truck. Funny note. Had a guy come in for a radiator fan for his BU renegade and he said he regrets buying the turd. I told him its because it isn't a real Jeep and he agreed.

Good luck and have fun.