eaglescout526

I absolutely like how this truck has 4 wheel drive but has just a basic pulley set up, alt, WP and main pulley. Nothin else.

Sounds like running lights. Have you recently replaced the bulbs? If so I would check the orientation, they are pretty easy to put in the wrong way so the brighter filament comes on with the running lights and the dimmer ones blink or come on with the brakes.

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DCK 4SPD MANUAL TRANS - AISIN SEIKI EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED Build date 8/29/85 Body code JL62 Another one lost to Chrysler.

Great story and looks really good. Don't understand why the PO repainted it though, the old Colorado Red job looked fine. Anyways put her up in the registry and ill get you a build sheet.

Well I have the main center support bracket for the bumper made but progress has stalled since the air compressor blew its head gasket so I can't do much more at the moment in terms of building the rest of the support. In the mean time I got the ZJ gear box rebuilt so I will be upgrading that this weekend. Woot!

It was an optional thing. Some trucks left the factory with them, others could've had them added at the dealer if they liked.

Sounds good! I will let you know and see what happens.

Vinegar bath will rid of the rust but I am not sure of how much will be left.

Might have to take the steering wheel off and look at the turn signal switch and cancel cam and see if you have all the bits that go down for the horn to work.

Wow, thats a way better idea than what I had. Thanks!

They arent rotted out to where they won't be usable, I just am not sure on how well they will reflect, I have an idea in mind if the reflectors arent far gone.

Hey everyone. I am on the look out for ROL fog lamp reflectors. The ones I have are very much rusted out and will probably partly do their job. Here's a diagram of what I'm after: Chrysler doesnt show them as serviceable so I can't locate any as NOS. OR.. I am after a Marchal 750 lens. Parts are for Chunk. Let me know if you guys have anything.

Ouch, that sucks. That's mostly why I honk at people who don't use their signals. Well at least you got it all fixed up!

Theres one NOS left side available.

Right I get that but if you havent replaced the down pipe of the exhaust, you might have this clamp or ring on the pipe still: This thing used to rattle a lot for me an I would hear it at start up and driving. Replaced all bushings and havent heard this guy move around since.

You know what I bet that rattle is? If you go under the engine and look at your exhaust pipe at the end of the oil pan is a clamp probably free hanging, see if that's your possible rattle.

Couple questions. Do you have a mechanical gauge hooked up to where the sending unit or sensor is? Or is this coming from the cluster? If you have a cluster, Renix does a self test of the gauges that start from zero and peg out and come to the reading from the sensor as I'm sure you know with your experience. Now when you say rattle from the engine, do you know where the rattle comes from in the engine/engine bay? My guess is something in the bay is loose and hitting against something. Unfortunately how Renix runs the motor at start up is to run it at 3000 to get the oil flowing, depending on outside temp the high revs will help heat the air and the alt charging the battery. Theres not a whole lot of ways to stop that unless you start the truck every day and your RPMs could be lower at start up. I know mine will get close to 3000 on the first start up of the day. But if she sits for a couple days ill see 3k at start up.

Ok makes much more sense now. A good healthy engine will have 50-60 psi at start up and come down to 30-40 psi once at op-temp. I would suspect the oil pressure sending unit or sensor to be faulty at start up or something weird is up with the electrical connection to it. Do you have full cluster package or idiot lights? Rear XJ flares do not fit unless you do some good split down the middle cutting and bonding the complete halves to make a whole MJ rear flare. Time consuming and costly but worth it if you can't find original flares.

I am confused as to what the outlying problem is here. First it was fender flares. Then 0-3000 RPM on a 2.5L at start up(Normal for Renix) and now we are at no oil pressure at start up. I would like to help but lets put some ducks in a row.

Not sure if he has sold them yet but here's two options.

Now you can use the 2.5L overflow bottle.

EGR solenoid, yes you do if you have emissions in Flroida.

T-Jeep 2wd L-Low price line 61-shortbed And no problem.

*A6 Seats - Vinyl High Back Bucket -YY 3LR APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE CBA BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ DGS TRANSMISSION-4SPD. AUTO,AISIN WARNER ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GTZ MIRRORS - MANUAL REMOTE HAA AIR CONDITIONING - FRONT HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red SBA POWER STEERING TBB CONVENTIONAL SPARE TIRE TBL TIRE CARRIER - INSIDE WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL YK1 Build date 8/24/86 Body code TL61

Need a CC module? I got a few as I'm trying to get kits together.