eaglescout526

Oh of course! Wouldnt be a Jeep if it wasnt always something.

I’ve been wondering how this MJ has been doing. Too focused on the XJW?

Got the rear interior assembled, not entirely happy with how the rear hatch closes on the bottom piece but it is what it is. can't complain too much. I also removed the upper half of the rear bench and the seat belts. Upon removing the third lap belt I found this gem: Pretty sure its a piece of the 80's but still was a neat thing to find tucked under the belts. Now to keep cleaning and make my way forward.

My parents fridge while my dad was out just stopped running. Fans were spinning and everything except the compressor. Luckily it’s a GE unit and I found some things to do some diag and found the compressor controller had failed. So my parents order a new controller I installed it and the fridge came to life. The fridge isn’t even that old either.

I’ll get this switch out Tuesday. Also since I have one missing the back half, I’ll show you it’s internals.

Yup! Meant to look the night I found it in the catalog. I’ll get it tonight.

Soooo thats where those two went.

Never mind I found the part number. 56002281 GM number: 25509432(yes Chrysler actually lists the GM number in the catalog)

I think I have one laying around with all my spare cruise parts. I for the life of me can not find that switch in the catalog anywhere.

That explains why I couldn’t find them all in one section haha.

Wait…do you really need a whole Renix era engine harness to swap around? I know the engine side is pretty plug n play in terms of swapping things around. Like my 2.5L harness has the second plug for the TPS sensor for the auto trans. I mean maybe you do need a whole harness. Just throwing some AMC cheap idea methods out there.

I mean the FSM is a must have for anything. I looked at one point for all the gauge info and couldn’t find it but maybe I looked in the wrong spot.

Should make it very easy. Owner hasn’t reported any issues since removing the T-stat. I don’t like it but oh well for the moment. I do have plans to make sure that gauge is correct. His engine is still spitting up brown crap that will need to be flushed out so I think that contributes to the problem along with the C100 probably being gummed up with that tar. I verified that it is the correct sender and ohms match somewhat due to it being aftermarket. Only thing I can think of is the cluster plug is either in wrong or I tore off some wire insulation and it’s grounding out at the speedometer cause it is an 86.

That’s good stuff right there cruiser. Was it in the FSM?

Maybe just a head swap to keep ya going and save money for a full engine swap? Just a thought.

So thats who it went to!!

It might be, I do plan to double check. As far as the t-stat goes, we did have one in. One was in while diagnosing and cleaning ground. Took it out on the suspicion that it might be bad. Swapped another in and still got the same results. The mech fan actually moves air like it should through the radiator which is good. But what I mean the gauge moves with the throttle I mean it moves like its a tachometer. hits 220 and stays like its should if it was actually operating at nominal temp. I sent you a PM on FBmessanger

Oh sweet jesus that car would get alot of us into trouble lol.

Thats what I am thinking. Somewhere between that wire and the cluster is unnecessary resistance. Ill get it figured. What bothers me is how without the t-stat, the gauge reacts to the throttle. Almost makes me wonder if I have the plug on the cluster upside down but I doubt its that possible.

I should add that I hooked up the REM to this MJ and watched the CTS in the manifold get above the average range for temps. But that could’ve been before the T-stat could’ve opened up and it’s supposed to get above average to warm up the manifold.

Simple enough Ωhm. I should be able to do that. Just need to get my alligator clips from home and try it tomorrow. I don't know why I didn’t think about that. I did resistance test on the sensor before start up and during and watched and compared the Ohms to what it should be which I was getting between 300-110 ohms and that translates to between 180* and 220* so it was reading like it should but not accurately because it is a Napa sensor. But this was tested at the engine ground strap not battery ground.

And I did check all ground ohms between the battery and engine firewall ground and all good. But once you get into the interior that’s when there’s resistance and I really don’t want to tear into this truck to make things right.

actually running water right now to make sure it cools properly. So no coolant yet. Had to flush it a couple times due to brown crap in the engine. That could be messing with it. But I’ve swapped temp sensors around. One that I have and a new one. New one I swear could be a switch as it wasn’t doing anything. Even after 5 minutes of running the gauge remained at 100*. Here’s the weird part. The gauge ohms out like it should. Unplug it and it goes to 100*. Ground it and it pegs to 260*. And I’ve tried this with two different gauges already. Swapped clusters too thinking the printed circuit was going bad. The only thing I can think of is someone messed with the wiring. It does have an aftermarket alarm system, original battery wires have been cut and replaced for some reason and an aftermarket stereo not that that should affect anything.

I can actually still order them from vintage parts. Part # is 4897647AA and that is the latest part number.

I’m going to try to find it. A quick glance in obvious spots shows nothing.