eaglescout526

Soooo thats where those two went.

Never mind I found the part number. 56002281 GM number: 25509432(yes Chrysler actually lists the GM number in the catalog)

I think I have one laying around with all my spare cruise parts. I for the life of me can not find that switch in the catalog anywhere.

That explains why I couldn’t find them all in one section haha.

Wait…do you really need a whole Renix era engine harness to swap around? I know the engine side is pretty plug n play in terms of swapping things around. Like my 2.5L harness has the second plug for the TPS sensor for the auto trans. I mean maybe you do need a whole harness. Just throwing some AMC cheap idea methods out there.

I mean the FSM is a must have for anything. I looked at one point for all the gauge info and couldn’t find it but maybe I looked in the wrong spot.

Should make it very easy. Owner hasn’t reported any issues since removing the T-stat. I don’t like it but oh well for the moment. I do have plans to make sure that gauge is correct. His engine is still spitting up brown crap that will need to be flushed out so I think that contributes to the problem along with the C100 probably being gummed up with that tar. I verified that it is the correct sender and ohms match somewhat due to it being aftermarket. Only thing I can think of is the cluster plug is either in wrong or I tore off some wire insulation and it’s grounding out at the speedometer cause it is an 86.

That’s good stuff right there cruiser. Was it in the FSM?

Maybe just a head swap to keep ya going and save money for a full engine swap? Just a thought.

So thats who it went to!!

It might be, I do plan to double check. As far as the t-stat goes, we did have one in. One was in while diagnosing and cleaning ground. Took it out on the suspicion that it might be bad. Swapped another in and still got the same results. The mech fan actually moves air like it should through the radiator which is good. But what I mean the gauge moves with the throttle I mean it moves like its a tachometer. hits 220 and stays like its should if it was actually operating at nominal temp. I sent you a PM on FBmessanger

Oh sweet jesus that car would get alot of us into trouble lol.

Thats what I am thinking. Somewhere between that wire and the cluster is unnecessary resistance. Ill get it figured. What bothers me is how without the t-stat, the gauge reacts to the throttle. Almost makes me wonder if I have the plug on the cluster upside down but I doubt its that possible.

I should add that I hooked up the REM to this MJ and watched the CTS in the manifold get above the average range for temps. But that could’ve been before the T-stat could’ve opened up and it’s supposed to get above average to warm up the manifold.

Simple enough Ωhm. I should be able to do that. Just need to get my alligator clips from home and try it tomorrow. I don't know why I didn’t think about that. I did resistance test on the sensor before start up and during and watched and compared the Ohms to what it should be which I was getting between 300-110 ohms and that translates to between 180* and 220* so it was reading like it should but not accurately because it is a Napa sensor. But this was tested at the engine ground strap not battery ground.

And I did check all ground ohms between the battery and engine firewall ground and all good. But once you get into the interior that’s when there’s resistance and I really don’t want to tear into this truck to make things right.

actually running water right now to make sure it cools properly. So no coolant yet. Had to flush it a couple times due to brown crap in the engine. That could be messing with it. But I’ve swapped temp sensors around. One that I have and a new one. New one I swear could be a switch as it wasn’t doing anything. Even after 5 minutes of running the gauge remained at 100*. Here’s the weird part. The gauge ohms out like it should. Unplug it and it goes to 100*. Ground it and it pegs to 260*. And I’ve tried this with two different gauges already. Swapped clusters too thinking the printed circuit was going bad. The only thing I can think of is someone messed with the wiring. It does have an aftermarket alarm system, original battery wires have been cut and replaced for some reason and an aftermarket stereo not that that should affect anything.

I can actually still order them from vintage parts. Part # is 4897647AA and that is the latest part number.

I’m going to try to find it. A quick glance in obvious spots shows nothing.

So let’s get right to it. Been working on an 86 2.5L. Got everything squared away and what not. But this “overheating” issue may not actually exist. That being said the temp gauge is acting weird. So it’ll slowly climb up to temp like normal but once it hits 220 it just climbs after that and doesn’t stop. Now I’ve taken an IR temp gun to it to see temps and well I didn’t see anything that looked to be overheating. But I had the son of the owners truck do some things and he removed the t-stat only to find the oddest thing I’ve seen this gauge do. It got to 220 and stopped moving. But each time he revved the engine, the temp would climb with it but come back down. I’ve cleaned every damn ground I can find and even added a new dash ground but no dice. It helped a little but not a lot. Now I ohm tested the temp sensor plug and got about 70ohms and did not like seeing that one but. But I’ve hit a brick wall. Any thoughts?

I’ll see what I can find today.

*X8 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats -SA Charcoal 167 Zone 67-Charlotte 1AA U.S. Dealer Retail 5KN Metro Cars of Detroit ALN APA Monotone Paint ARL BAY 105 Amp Alternator BCY 475 AMP BATTERY BGA Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CAC Low Back Bucket Seats CDB Reclining Front Seats CKA Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CSR Passenger Assist Handles CUF Full Length Floor Console DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DGS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHS Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever DMD 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio DRJ Dana 35 Rear Axle EAA All Engines EAF ALL FUEL INJECTED ENGINES-GAS ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS GAC Tinted Glass Windows GBB Tinted Windshield Glass GCB Front Door Tinted Glass GEH Fixed Door Vent Glass GFD Rear Sliding Window GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror GRZ Left Remote Mirror GSZ Right Remote Control Mirror GTZ Manual Remote Mirrors HAA Air Conditioning JAY DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JGB JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA Cigar Lighter K2X STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR K3C STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR KKE LBC Glove Box Lamp LCJ DOME/READING LAMP B-PILLAR LMA Halogen Headlamps MB1 Black Front Bumper MBJ Black Bumper MDA Front License Plate Bracket MFG Body Color Headlamp Bezels MHA Black Windshield Moldings MMC MMG Belt Moldings MMK Lower Grille Surround-Painted Silver NAA Federal Emissions NBK EVAP Control System NF2 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank PQ9 QQ9 RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAF AM/FM Cassette Radio RCD 4 Speakers SBA Power Steering SCE Steering Wheel SFA Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGA Rear Shock Absorbers SUA Tilt Steering Column TAA All Tires TBC Compact Spare Tire TBM Tire Carrier Winch TMW Tires WJM 15X7.0 Chrome Wheels WLZ All Aluminum Wheels XBS Pickup Box YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications YEP Manuf Statement of Origin YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01 Rear Spring Group I Z1A GVW/Payload Rating Z59 Left Front Spring Group Ix Z78 Right Front Spring Group VIII Build date 10/2/89 Body code TL61 Sold by AUTOPARK CHRYSLER JEEP, CARY NC

This is what the fork looks like. But otherwise that’s about it.

Sweet! If you can grab that fork that would be awesome! Shoot me a PM when you got it please.

I have no idea if youll ever go back but under the front signal lens by the trans mission bell looks like the clutch fork. Any chance that can be grabbed?