ghetdjc320

M8 is the thread size.

I’ve been considering lining my TJ Sahara by mixing up some tintable liner in moss green and saddle for the top. There’s no body work coverup at all I just don’t have access to an adequate paint booth or spray equipment where it’s at. I have sprayed with a Wagner Moto Coat sprayer under a canopy outdoors with decent success but it required a lot of cutting and buffing afterwards to look good.

another option is a KJ 8.25. But why not swap the whole axle from the YJ you got? It should be close to bolt in for an MJ

Goodness sakes there is a lot of confusion here. First of all, XJ and MJ sending units are not the same despite how many companies market them as such. The MJ tank has a small splash pan the pump and strainer sit in that is towards the rear of the tank. I've seen XJ sending units used but they will be oriented to the front of the tank and won't have any baffling. MTS makes an original MJ style sending unit that fits MJ tanks. The fuel gauge level sensor changed resistance ranges in the HO years (91-92) but the Renix and early model HO 4.0 pumps are the same. The 96+ setup runs a higher system psi and no return line (which is not a pump return line but rather a tank return line). You can run an aftermarket pump and modify it to fit the MJ sending unit. Turbine pumps are the newer tech and much smaller and more efficient than the old rotary vane style pumps. You can easily add an external regulator to provide either a dead head (return less) or return style fuel supply at whatever pressure you need provided the pump can support it. Most of the old rotary vane style pumps can’t consistently provide the necessary volume at the higher 96+ pressure requirements. So using a later style turbine pump is a good idea but requires some mods to the sending unit to work well. I'm personally running the DW200 pump on a modded MTS sending unit but there are plenty of other options.

A wanted add may yield a set of MJ bucket seats.

Are those tweeters mounted in the dash on that 3rd pic? Nice

out of curiosity, why not the key parts MJ specific pans?

I ran a 97. When I did my research, I had 95,97 and 98 axles all on hand. The 96-97 are wider than the 93-95 models. 97 literally had the perches in the exact location for my YJ application which is the same as MJ iirc. I'd run the 98+ on an MJ. I'm running the KJ 8.25 now and the width is a very nice match. More bracketry work though for the later axles.

Having an offset is a non-issue unless it exceeds around 4-5*. Equal length axle shafts will give you an offset pinion and vice versa. Many axles are this way from factory and their drivetrains are not offset. U joints need a little bit of offset or else the caps fail to pivot at all and they seize.

Seems like it would be a good idea to install a screen over that intake now that I’m looking at it.

Got both set aside

Did it slow down once warmed up?

You could also offset the machining cost by not having it done

Bang for buck, I haven’t seen any 4.0 mods that return decent gains for the cost aside from diy forced induction.

Let us know if you get any pics. Been considering something for rock sliders

I don’t really subscribe to the one manufacturer is better than the rest idea. I’ll examine each item and decide which I want to run. If I find a part that is slightly out of spec or has manufacturing defects, I won’t run it. It has been my experience that Japan and US made bearings and seals tend to have tighter tolerances than others regardless of the brand on the box, but this is not a universal truth, just a passing observation. I’ve used great quality products from other manufacturing countries as well. But when I’m going to install a bearing or seal in some inaccessible location, I’m going to carefully inspect it for fit and finish before installing.

Removing the taper from the throttle body is also counterproductive to your low end torque. The taper increases velocity.

My bad, I thought you were looking for ball joints. For u joints, one of those parts should be the grease-able and the other is not. Non greaseable should be a touch stronger. I normally opt for Moog on u joints.

706944X is what you need.

The last SKF I bought about 2 years ago were USA made. The Timkens I had bought were not. I tend to get either US or Japan made bearings for their fit and quality

Just a thought, but check the wiring to your TCM and make sure it isn’t loosing power.

There have been a couple of reported issues with the blower resistor's compatibility with the pre-HO fan switch on the control deck. Worst case scenario would involve a blower resistor swap which is very easy.

You can send them to a wheel shop in Dallas that can refinish them. Can’t remember cost but not too bad.

I used mdf as a replacement for the carpeted panel. Not sure if anything would fit behind it

Does that amplifier accept speaker level inputs? If it needs line level, you will have to get a line level converter