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ghetdjc320

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Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. ghetdjc320
    Are you looking for lift or increased payload? There should be plenty of options that could fit. You will likely need to redrill the center pin hole as the MJ one is offset a bit. I’ve seen 2 different co figurations called “metric ton” springs. One was a 4+1 pack and another the 3+2. I suspect the 3+2 is how the factory did it but I may be wrong
  2. ghetdjc320
    I wouldn’t say the 91-95 ecu’s are unreliable. They are a fully potted ecu and they live under the hood. There are a few out there who have chipped and tuned them even for boost. There are also adapters for the obd2 ecu’s to obd1 harness. The alternator voltage regulator became an ecu function in 91+. As for diagnosis, many times it’s not as simple as just grabbing a multimeter to fix a Renix. Some of our recent repair posts have proven this. It can also be tough to find some quality Renix replacement sensors. Ultimately each system progressively evolved a bit in certain areas. But a modern stand alone ecu will be far ahead of all the factory system. Lots of Renix MJ’s out there still running strong though. Id agree though that swapping to obd1 is not worth it.
  3. ghetdjc320
    Out of curiosity, why are you looking for one? Had a boss one time that wanted us to have vehicle trackers for work. Was kinda funny when he went out to find the obd port to try to install one on my old 88 YJ .
  4. ghetdjc320
    96+ was OBD2. OBD1 was only in use for 91-95 on the XJ platform. Obd2 does indeed have more potential as the maps can be edited easily enough. However, unless you plan on modifying your engine significantly, there isn’t anything to be gained by just swapping the obd2 system over on a stock setup. An REM scanner will provide a host of diagnostic data as well for Renix.
  5. ghetdjc320
    For the load valve, if you’re running 4 wheel discs you can delete it and run either the ZJ/similar prop valve or retain the MJ distribution block with no prop valve. If you’re running drum disc combo, run something like an XJ prop valve or similar to lessen the pressure sent to the rear wheel cylinders.
  6. ghetdjc320
    I’m guessing that’s just a generic statement. You’ll need to verify how far your perches are from the axle tube vs the Barnes setup.
  7. ghetdjc320
    What are you referring to?
  8. ghetdjc320
    I went with these perches from Barnes SUA for higher clearance. Realistically, the wheels are pretty close to the springs so as long as you pick good lines while wheeling, you shouldn’t have much of an issue with anything getting hung up even in stock configuration. Notch flares open up the wheel wells a lot if you are still wanting some type of flare. Otherwise, a nice trim can give good clearance. DPG off-road has a great video on trimming for clearance while still keeping things looking clean. Widebody kits are another option if you like the pre-runner look. Last couple pages of my build thread have some pictures of what notch flares and metric 33’s look like mocked up. And the liberty 8.25 is a good swap candidate. You’ll have to clean up several brackets but the 3” tubes, disk brakes and screw type preload adjusters are all nice benefits. https://barnes4wd.com/products/sua-swap-combo
  9. ghetdjc320
    There is a ring that fills in that gap (see pic). For reference, the non c clip D35 and D44 use the same brake backing plate.
  10. ghetdjc320
    Sounds also like possible starter solenoid. But try another good battery first.
  11. ghetdjc320
    I remember seeing this before from GS. Interestingly though, I have yet to see a single Comanche measure any sort of factory spec after swapping to GS springs. That’s not a complaint though, I just consider them a nice little lift spring that goes well with a 3” front lift (I ran the 4 leaf packs in soa for a bit and probably could have cleared 40’s in the back with Napier flares ). If you need stock height, you probably need to go used. I’m almost wondering if the high spec spring rates were some sort of optional factory spring for some sort specialty builds?? I could see those being spec’d in 1985 for 86 builds back when the amc 20 axle was still in the build parts bin.
  12. ghetdjc320
    I also locked up a 4.0 from overheating once. Still ran fine once it cooled back down and I was able to repair the cooling system. The 4.0 is a stout little engine. I wouldn’t be concerned. Mechanics often like to scare people into purchases. As for the price, it may be a fair price for the swap, however, you’re not going to add 5k of value to your MJ. If you plan on keeping it for a long time and driving it, then maybe it’s worth it. Personally I’d just clean out the cooling system (by someone who has the proper equipment to chemically backflush the whole system under pressure/vacuum not just a drain and fill), do an oil change and run it. Your head gasket may also be just fine. Overheating is bad for any engine, but it’s not like the 4.0 is some sort of super tight tolerance racing engine. It’s more like an old tractor engine.
  13. ghetdjc320
    The one from boosted technologies seems nice and there are also a couple of diy write ups involving spacers.
  14. ghetdjc320
    Checkout the project “Comanche Dawn” in epic tech. Push button start can be relatively simple or quite complex depending on what you’re wanting to do. Keep in mind that our steering columns are just standard GM columns and there is quite an aftermarket. Digital guard dog and flaming river both make full kits.
  15. ghetdjc320
    1” spacers are about a perfect fit to fill out the rear wheel well. Maybe throw on some new u bolts also. Don’t get too obsessive about centering your rear axle, less you find the entire jeep is out of alignment from the factory . Seriously though, the build standards were by no means exact. Little by little you can replace any damaged or worn items but those tires are always going to rub unless you add spacers or change wheels to something with less backspacing.
  16. ghetdjc320
    As a former vendor, thanks for supporting our builds with the parts you and others continue to make! Many vendors come and go (including myself) and unfortunately, some get their products copied by other individuals and/or companies. I’m glad for any parts we have from any individual/company but definitely recognize that it’s hard to continue to offer products as a small company in a niche market. So in a nutshell, thank you for your hard work
  17. ghetdjc320
    Higher comp ratio and an updated head design such as the Edelbrock in combination with cam, intake exhaust and TB’s are good places to start. Of course a stroker kit can also add some displacement. There is a decent amount to be gained on a 4000cc engine though. It’s just been my observation that certain TB and cam choices on a stock 4.0 can improve your overall HP numbers but do little to improve torque and/or move it too high in the RPM range. But ultimately, a good running stockish 4.0 benefits greatly from proper gearing. It’s by far the best bang for the buck as the gears are you’re torque multiplier.
  18. ghetdjc320
    The taper in the throttle body helps improve velocity and contributes to that low end torque. Jeff does a great job boring TB’s and I’ve ran several from him but the torque band always shifted higher. Painless performance made a “perfect” throttle body that maintained a nice taper but opened up the bore further. With supporting mods, it’s a nice setup.
  19. ghetdjc320
    BORA makes some of the best quality spacers in almost any size you need
  20. ghetdjc320
    True. The Holley mid-mount to me is the best overall solution *if* it fits. Jeff at Novak thought it would fit but may need to swap the larger novak fan to the other side. This tc pump setup from PSC also struck me as interesting. Supposed to be for an LS3 which is a very similar configuration: https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-pk1871-ls3-m.html It seems that, even though there are a lot of aftermarket accessory drives, they have yet to crack this configuration to get a remote or even integral PS reservoir setup. Id love to just move the alternator to the passenger side head, but again, no one seems to make that setup in the -1 corvette spacing.
  21. ghetdjc320
    Curious what your thoughts are in regards to flipping the pump over so the inlet would run to the outside. I keep trying to come up with a way to eliminate the vette reservoir to reduce intake interference... It appears that your PS pump is held in with 2 bolts. I was speaking with Blaine (Savvy, BMB and Vanco) about this, and he suggested trying to find a way to fit this reservoir near the alternator: https://www.chasebays.com/products/chase-bays-new-dual-baffled-power-steering-reservoir?_pos=2&_sid=92fea590c&_ss=r
  22. ghetdjc320
    Gotcha. Been looking for an alternative ps reservoir to the vette unit as it interferes with the intake tubing in my setup. Let me know if it works for you or if you come up with an alternative
  23. ghetdjc320
    @Limeyjeeper Does that blue one look like the Holley mid-mount setup?
  24. ghetdjc320
    My thoughts were in connection with the PS reservoir. Do you happen to know what you’re going to be using yet?
  25. ghetdjc320
    Awesome, thanks! Do you know what offset you’re using? Looks like stock -1 corvette offset but hard to tell. What bracket setup is that?
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