ghetdjc320

I harvested all the connectors from my 90’ engine, dash and chasis harness. I have them all bagged as pigtails back stateside. Next year I’ll take detailed pictures of each one so they can all be ID’d and hopefully post reference links for the manufacturers

Dug up these pictures of the gasket on my MJ. Perhaps they may be useful for reference

Looking good! What about using two pieces of foam and bonding them?

I couldn’t bring myself to run those horrible looking airbag steering wheels when I’d considered the swap previously but now I see they can be swapped with a nicer wheel. I may end up just going doors and center console perhaps?? Not sure yet. I’m thinking though that if I do go this route, I’ll keep my painless wiring setup and integrate the necessary connection with the newer dash. Probably swap the cluster to the Dakota digital setup so I can delete the ecu for the gauges. Would be neat if a template could be made that one could just overlay on the firewall for this swap. I think the pictures referenced above is going to be super helpful for sure. If I keep my painless wiring setup, I’m assuming I may be able to do fewer firewall mods as I wouldn’t be using the XJ wiring aside from some of the connectors.

This was another neat option o had looked at for my build: https://www.chasebays.com/collections/universal-chase-bays/products/chase-bays-windshield-washer-reservoir-intercooler-sprayer

Do you think it’s easier to patch in the necessary sections or just transplant a big chunk of the firewall? I always wanted to go that route on mine and swap the 97+ dash, doors and center console (maybe I still should???). I do dislike the look of the later style door mirrors though

I’ve ran all 3 sets of available valving on the 5125’s for the rear. I never found one that was decent for the MJ. As for rear shock selection, measure the compressed and full droop lengths along with the static ride height. Typically 60% up travel from static height is ideal though it can vary depending on the application. If I wasn’t running a custom valved shock specific to the truck, then I’d probably go for with some rancho 5000 series or some oem spec shocks from Monroe or similar. The 5125’s can be had in decent valving for the front (255/70) but they can’t react correctly to the light weight rear imo, so traveling down hill on a windy, rough road feels like the tail end will not stay planted unless the bed has some substantial weight.

6=8

How is that radiator/fan setup doing for operating temps?

I’d second the Klipsch if you don’t have an iPhone. Sound quality is relatively poor on every set of wireless earbuds I’ve ever heard. Far too much compression and digital equalization for my tastes. However, earbuds aren’t really about true sound quality, they are a convenience piece. So find what best fits your ears nice and snug without any pain. Something with long battery life and music controls built into the them would be great.

All the links above are for the same product. The tj boot works well. My trans cover isn’t standard but here is how it looks on mine. I used some black rtv for additional sealing along with stainless metal roofing screws that come with the captured sealing washers.

Notice the oscilloscope readings below. Blue line is “cam”, orange pulses are crank. This is on an HO though. I’ve always referred to “sync generators” as cam sensors since the cam directly drives this sensor. This allows for sequential vs un-timed batch firing.

WOW, those look horrible. Yeah, just grab them from TW. You may also need a longer center pin.

Just as a quick note: I harvested all the connectors from my stock 90 dash, chasis and engine harness. I have them all bagged and will take pictures of them all in detail at some point and add information regarding each one along with the source hopefully.

Did this all start when you swapped injectors or were you experiencing these issues before the swap? Cam and/or crank sensors come to mind. Instead of grouping all issues together and trying to find a single source, try isolating one of them and tracking it down. For instance, with a bad idle, you could try disconnecting injectors one at a time and see if you notice a difference.

I also have a 5.5mm socket but what size are the actual threads?

Out of curiosity, do you know what your PS fluid temps are now? Keep in mind that the radiator tranny “cooler” is more of a temp “regulator” bringing up the temps during cold days by transferring engine coolant heat. Most oem towing package rigs use an additional external “cooler” plumbed in series. So are you wanting to warm up your fluid for cold weather or actually cool down a system that is currently overheating? The fuel rail fitting you used may not stand up to those higher temps. Switching to AN or JIC fittings would be a much better alternative. This guy has a nice write up on the sizes and part numbers needed for the swap: https://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

The issues I see is with that thick black gasket on the lock cylinder. The stock unit has a super thin plastic gasket (only ever seen these on YJ’s) or no gasket (none of my MJ’s ir XJ’s had a gasket for the lock cylinder)

With the time money and skills, almost anything will fit. Do you have a source for one? If you’re looking at diesel, a cummins 2.8 is another viable swap candidate.

Out of curiosity, do you not have an MJ you can test them on?

I’m a bit partial to TJ’s also. I prefer the way they drive over the 2dr JK’s. We had a gladiator for about a month as a rental also and that was a very nice ride. This is just comparing all rigs stock.

The TJ is like a cross between a YJ and an XJ. This is our second TJ. Nice aftermarket support and just the right combinations of creature comforts and ruggedness. Like XJ’s though, it’s tough to find good ones that haven’t been beat on.

I’m about to get back to this TJ and have a few minor projects planned. Contemplating a repaint this year. Possibly going with a monstaliner for it but still undecided. Also contemplating gearing down to 4.10’s. This has the old TF999 tranny which is utterly bulletproof but is only a 3 speed. Deeper gears are a must especially for towing. This 4.0 runs like a top but feels anemic with the current 3.07’s. Bringing back with me some gear changing tools. Will update soon. Project “Tomahawk” is back under cover for now and still awaiting its grand reveal

Looking good. That’s exactly what you want. Let that por15 find its way down there just like the water does

Yep that’s the one. For the most part, the luk rep-set is a good option. Not too grabby either