ghetdjc320

If you’re needing a complete new headliner, go SMS. He’s a vendor on here and I bet he could get that shipped to you. Otherwise, if you have your existing backer board, you can order just the fabric from him.

Yep, in regards to the cooler lines, they should be the same

There are different approaches that should work here. Of course you can always replace the stock parts that have failed. Alternatively, you can upgrade the connections and lines using a method similar to this one: https://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

So 7 5/8 - 10 1/4 free arch spec. Does anyone have any stock springs lying around and could measure the free arch? I’m almost wondering if the 10.25 free arch springs in the chart above is for some sort of specialty MJ.

That’s correct. There are a huge variety or usb digital to analog converters available and they typically have a 3.5mm unbalanced stereo output that will then be wired to the board inside the radio. Once you have an aux input on your radio, you centrally connect all sorts of devices to that which in turn can interface with the music source via USB, Bluetooth etc.

USB audio is typically a digital signal. You would need to use a digital to analog converter as you’re looking for an unbalanced analog stereo signal to provide the radio’s pre-amp.

Here Isa link as well: https://teamcherokee.com/products/fuel-tank-vent-valve-grommet-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996.html

Those rotary vane pumps have always been problematic for me. Never got more than a year before they started to fail. That being said, it could also be the 12v+ side. Have you checked out the body harness connector near the parking brake?

HO's do have a return style fuel rail until the obd2 era. Try this, prime your fuel pump a few times before starting by turning the key to the "on" position and keeping it there for a few seconds. do this maybe 3-5 times before starting it, then try cranking it and starting. Let us know the results.

I went the Borgeson route on the last build. I wasn’t confident in the original steering shaft’s collapsibility in the event of an accident after decades of oxidation. I bet though, that Borgeson will also have repair and replacement parts that could work with the oem shaft.

Any chance you could get a few detailed shots of the bedside wheel opening cuts you made for the Notch flares?

My manual regulators went out on my last MJ and it was almost impossible to find replacements.

The smokers window setup can be swapped from an earlier model XJ MJ and is a pretty simple bolt in swap though you will have to remove your door glass. You have factory power windows in an MJ? Thats a rare option! You can swap to a manual regulator though they are admittedly hard to find in good working order. Another option is swapping in the single full size glass from a 97+ XJ. There is a youtube video on that process. Alternatively, get your power windows working right and enjoy an option that many of us wish we had

The rear shocks are a different part number as they have different mounts and extended/collapsed lengths than the fronts.

Glad you got it fixed! I know how frustrating those mechanisms can be. Had that happen to my TJ a few years back as I was getting in the Jeep to leave.

For a 231, hands down the JB conversions kit.

Yep that's the one

I believe those are straight cut o ring fittings. Coldhose has lengths of aluminum tubing and all the fittings.

Just to throw this out there, a few of us here are running a rolling hardtop cover from truck covers USA. It’s a pricey item but the functionality and quality is top tier.

Let’s add a coil spring compressors and high lift jack. Both are widow makers And I refer to my plasma cutter as the “lightsaber”

https://coldhose.com/products/universal-reduced-barrier-r-134a-hose-kit?variant=35532365365408 there are other kits as well that would work. Add a drier and a binary or trinary pressure switch from vintage air and you have all the necessary hoses and fittings. Amazon has some decent hydraulic reduced barrier crimpers or you can always take them into a shop to have them crimped once the length and clocking has been set.

You can alway grab a universal hose kit with reduced barrier hose and a hydraulic crimper and make whatever you need

Try flipping the lever where the electric door solenoid would go (it would sit below the door latch mechanism and used a short pushrod). You need to try to flip that existing latch mechanism either to the locked or the unlocked position a few times.

Normally I measure full compression and static ride height. That dimension should be approx 60% of your shock travel. Make sure your bump stops bottom out before you shock does and that will be your collapsed length.

I’ve used a couple of aftermarket sets so far. They are much thinner than oem and need to be trimmed in certain spots for fitment. Go with used oem ones if you can find them.