ghetdjc320

I should have another nos set soon!

was planning on plastic with the anti-splash grooves. Thanks for the pics. Will edit the files accordingly. Working in the second trim cover now

What would be relatively simple to produce is a universal tail light bucket that would allow you to install your own leds. I could 3D print those and they would mount at all factory points but would use led panels. I can work on some renderings of what that would look like. It would be much nicer than those rustys tail light setups

So I’ve been working on several reproduction pieces for the MJ (hope to bring them into production soon). I was wanting to see what it would take to get the taillights remade. Most of the manufacturers I reach out to will not return my request. I finally found a Chinese company that said they would do it. $5700 for the molds and about $3 per light with a minimum order of 1000 units. I’ve also looked into silicone molds, 3D printing etc. I’ve been thinking that the easiest thing to do would be to just reproduce the actual lens. I’ve seen several threads where people say they are either working on them or have a lead on some way to get them made but nothing comes from it. What is the most viable solution you’ve come across?

9.25 is the dimension I received off of an amc splash guard for the rear. Fronts were the same width from the dimensions I received. Let me know what you have. I plan on putting all these files together in the diy section but also plan on producing repop switch covers and mud flaps. Will start another thread regarding where I have made it with tail lights

Will get to work on that one next. I’ll reference one with the amc logo

Just grab an angle grinder

Can do if you can get me dimensions. Working on second switch trim cover also with sports bar lights and transmission switch. The plan is to produce the trim covers, mud flaps, cargo lights and possibly... tail lights. I will start with the switch covers though. Have to reinvest to keep moving on to larger projects.

Thanks! Please check my post in the tech section about replacement switch trim covers

Plastic films are on there way. Graphics are being cut now too. Should be able to have this together in a couple of weeks. Here is a teaser of what else I’ve been working on:

Took some time but I finally matched a set for my truck. Took them to the body shop for some clear before I installed them

It’s just my opinion...

Agreed. Don’t like the idea of a 4 door mj. Wish the new gladiator had a 2dr model.

I don’t see any valving info listed. Do they not post the valving specs? I’d get a set of bilsteins or fox and get them re-valved at accutune for your application.

Moog parts have worked great for me. Rock auto will often carry oem Mopar parts as well

I’m assuming the parts store may be thinking that you have a vacuum disconnect axle?? You are referring to the seals that sit right beside the ring and pinion in the axle tubes correct? Or do you have a disconnect housing and are trying to swap to one piece shafts?

I like running the outer seals as well however, the axle shaft is not machined for a seal at that location and thus you need to keep it greased very well so it doesn’t tear up the seal. For the inner axle seal I went with seals-it seals. They make an inner axle seal that is astronomically better than the oem ones. https://sealsit.com/product/economy-axle-seal/

X2 I went with 5125’s and just browsed the Bilstein catalog until I found the ones I needed with the right valving and lengths. I’d recommend you actually measure your shock length needs vs just going off of something for a 3.5” lift. Actual lift heights just vary too much imo

I’ve only ever seen one here in island apart from mine. Haven’t seen it in at least 6 months but it was an off white rust bucket. I think the owner works at the airport since I’ve seen it parked in the employee lot. Will try to get some info on it if I find the owner one of these days. I don’t believe there was a Jeep dealership on island while the Comanche was in production.

Sweet, thanks! Can I get some detailed dimensions of the cutout? I can vector trace it to get it exact that way. Thanks!

The Napier’s (which I have and love) don’t give you any more vertical clearance. Most of the trimming is done on the leading and trailing edges of the flares to give a “wider” opening. If you want flares that really open up the wheel wells then I would recommend notch customs flares. I can’t speak as to their quality or fitment but they will open up your wheel wells. IMHO they look sweet if they are molded into the fender and painted body color. The picture attached is not mine but I did get some inspirational que’s from that truck (and a few others). Those are the notch flares

The “rubber tensioner” is just a chain guide and does not tension the timing chain. Aside from a few one-off parts from Hesco (e.g. thermostat housing spacer, locked dampener) I try to stay away from them. Most of their parts are simply repackaged oem parts that are sold as “specialty” with significant markup (like their “custom” vss for adding mpfi to vehicles with a cable driven speedo (it’s just an oem 91 YJ vss for twice the cost and there are many other examples). Dealing with Hesco reminds me of dealing with Clifford Performance. It’s their way or the highway and the customer is always wrong. That has been my experience at least. Personally I would just piece together a stroker “kit” myself. However, we still want to know what kit your friend is offering you. Please let us know what it includes

My oem 91 mj visors are plastic

if your talking obd1 HO models then you are working with a 39psi system. Calculate injector need accordingly based on HP, engine size, VE, and max rpm. Typically something in the 24-30 range works for most strokers. Adjustable fpr helps to get your afr’s where you need them (afr gauge is a bit of a must for tuning). Most of the strokers I see built don’t do anything to tune them other than new injectors. That being said, I think they are leaving a lot of power on the table by not getting it tuned. Personally, I’d say stand alone efi systems are the way to go if you want to get the most power from any setup. However, to the OP: at a minimum you will need different injectors but to get the fueling just right, add an adjustable fpr from hesco and an afr gauge to tune it.