ghetdjc320

That would be awesome, thanks!

I’m needing that little armrest clip that goes on the upper portion of the door for the hockey stick style armrests. It’s part number 8 & 9 in the diagram below. Can’t seem to find the one that came out of the door Diagram: https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=4325531&ukey_assembly=683444 Here is where the clip goes in the door:

You replace the whole shaft. Rock auto has a few that are pretty reasonable. Borgesson has one as well if you want the best. Search for a first gen XJ Cherokee (84-96)

That gap makes it easier to clean . It's going to get dirty one way or another, better to keep it accessible.

ZJ Steering works well on mild lifts with 31-33's. The general spring replacement leaf springs will net enough lift to accommodate a 3" front lift coil. Add a leaf is another good option with 3" front coils.

Agreed. It’s probably similar to the method used on the tailgate panels. On all the hoods I’ve seen, there is a decent gap between the inner frame and the skin in some areas. Panel bond adhesives could not take up such large gaps.

Oreillys carries all the 3m panel bond adhesives around here. What they don’t have in stock they can get in a day or two. I don’t think panel bonding to the frame structure in the center is called for here though. I’m guessing there is some reason why they used a pillar foam in place of an adhesive. It would have been easier just to tack weld it in a few spots. Wonder if maybe heat transfer or crash crumpling zones are part of the equation

You could spot weld & panel bond the perimeter but the actual internal bracing had a foam layer between it and the hood skin. You can use a flexible 3m 2 part foam if you want to recreate the original.

This is what you need: https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/categories/johnny-joint-washers MJs used a cam slot in the frame side bracket. As others mentioned, later model jeeps moved the cam slot to the axle bracket which is what you picked up. I’m assuming you still have the cam slot on the frame side brackets?? The washers listed above delete the cam slot when running adjustable control arms.

Here is a handy guide for a DIY upgrade: https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Cv83Y7F7hu4QK3Grd72LKF1uSeHcZERGiwWGbjfxG3I/mobilebasic

Don’t mean to hijack this thread but this is an interesting tidbit of tech here. So you are running a Dana 30 but with WJ knuckles and WJ unit bearings?

The 84-89 XJ 86-89 MJ and 87-89 YJ with the Dana 30 front axle all had the same knuckles that use a bolt on caliper that holds the pads. 90+ used “wings” cast into the knuckle that hold the pads and use a floating caliper design. The ability to bolt on the calipers is what lets you run bigger brakes. The Wilwood kit is very competitively priced as big brake kits go. You can build a kit yourself as well for less but with some trade offs.

Agreed on the REM. Problem is many mechanics rely on their scanners and not their skill sets. Kinda like going to the auto parts store and then asking what vehicle you’re working on when you ask them for a relay socket. You need the guy that knows where their reference books are. An OBD2 swap in an MJ is not a straight forward swap if done correctly. Cruisers tips and an REM are the way to go. But as mentioned, the wiring from headlight to taillight is now getting old and all the connectors are getting corroded. I’d note that MJ’s weren’t really built to a high standard . I still love these trucks but it is what it is

Look at metric sizes. As @boxyjeep posted, 285/70/17 is a great size and is widely available. Looking for 33x10.5’s will produce limited results.

Huge amounts of progress. Engine is running excellent. Was able to move under its own power finally. Need to plumb the brakes still but that should be quite straightforward. Interior electrical is about 90% finished now. All my gauges are working perfectly. Once I finish this project I’ll post up details of how things are setup.

You can test your switch for continuity to rule that out. Then test the power coming to the switch from the headlight switch as outlined above.

I Partly. Also a good thermal barrier and dampener. The inside of the doors and around the speaker have been completely dynamated. The dynaliner is a 1/8” closed cell barrier just used behind the door panel. The door panels themselves are 3/16” birch with a foam layer followed by the vinyl. They are quiet as a Mercedes

Some update pics:

Explorer and KJ cables are longer

The disk brake parking brake levers are similar between ZJ, TJ/LJ and Explorers. You can use pretty much any of those cables, just get the right length and be mindful of different length for right/left (nothing wrong with getting a pair of left or rights if the length is what you need). The length description is typically posted on rock auto. LJ disk parking brake cables may be a good option?? KJ are around 70" IIRC but that extra length allows some rerouting if you prefer.

I ordered my hitch and DIY bumper around thanksgiving and received it mid January. From what I gather, he's outsourcing operations.

Mostly running out of time . Aluminized works well if you keep it clean. I was going to tig up a 304 system but just don't have the time. this should last me several years and is honestly going to be a nice layout to model after when I eventually tig up a stainless setup . I've been down into the column that far before, but it's been some time back. Probably a couple of hours to carefully disassemble and get it repaired correctly. Going to use red Loctite and torque to spec. I also replaced the turn and wiper switches and installed a NOS cruise control turn signal/wiper lever. I removed the OE style cruise control connector and replaced it with a 4 pin Deatsch connector to connect to the LS PCM.

build time is about 8 days so i'l post up when i get them

Ive heard that DeLorean has replacements available. @Limeyjeeper used them iirc