ghetdjc320

Hate to say it also but new rotors on old pads is not a good idea. New pads have a sacrificial later that embeds into the pad and help increase braking. If you threw on new pads and then added new rotors latter the sacrificial layer is no longer present on the pads and it will be difficult if not impossible to brake in your pads onto the new rotors

Here is my take after running almost every brake system on my Jeeps. Rear disk do not help improving braking power. Disks have many other advantages though such as better cooling and they are relatively self cleaning. Easy to service also. The key to good braking is a good amount of boost assist to the master cylinder and the correct ratio of master cylinder piston surface area to caliper piston surface area. Vacuum boosters: first off make sure your engine vacuum is good. 18in+ of vacuum at idle is needed for a vacuum booster to give full power. Vacuum leaks, cam changes and many other factors can contribute to low idle vacuum. This needs to be checked before you consider a booster swap. Also test your current booster by running your engine for a few seconds with your foot off the brake. Shutoff the engine and wait a minute or so, press on the brake pedal. You should have at least one full vacuum assisted pedal push before the pedal hardens up. If it fails that test then you have a leaky booster/check valve. You can also run an electric vacuum pump for your brakes which can significantly improve the vacuum assist. Master cylinders: 15/16 is normally the best size for stock front calipers and either drum or disk rears. MC size should only increase when more fluid volume is needed (eg big brake/caliper upgrades). Running a larger MC with stock brakes will result in less fluid pressure. Bleeding brakes: Always start by bench bleeding the MC and make sure you are absolutely positive it is air-free. Don’t let the MC Tun dry at all when bleeding the rest of the system or you’ll have to start over. Vacuum and gravity bleeding have been the most effective in my experience. Speed bleeders also really help if bleeding by yourself. Brake pads and rotors: Generally speaking, proper pad break in and selection is crucial. When you first get new pads they normally have a coating that embeds into the rotor upon first use. Softer pads wear quicker and create more dust but also generally stop better. Lifetime warranty pads are generally very poor performing since the compound is extremely hard. I recommend with black magic brake pads or centric posi-quiet. Regarding rotors, drilled and slotted rotors have less contact area for the pad and therefore require more pressure to have the same braking force. They do offer many other cooling and cleaning benefits though in certain applications. Coated rotors are great to keep the rotors from rusting onto the wheel unit bearings. Rear disks: Generally they actually offer less braking than drums. Think of tractor trailers, most use drum brakes. Drums also typically have better parking/ebrakes. That being said, disk brakes are so much more convenient and still offer very good braking performance especially when wet or in muddy conditions. They cool much quicker also. Stop and go traffic, windy roads and aggressive driving all greatly benefit from disks. Prop valves: typically in a rear drum/front disk setup you need to lower the braking fluid pressure to the rear brakes since drums will lock up sooner especially with empty truck beds. Disk front and rear are generally 60/40 or even 50/50 pressure split. In other words, up your rear brake fluid pressure if you switch from drums to disks. 84-89 Dana 30’s have knuckles that can easily accept various big brake upgrades/kits. 90 and later dana 35’s can use the ZJ disk with almost zero mods. pre 90 Dana 35s have an early style Dana 44 mounting flange. They can still be upgraded to disks but it’s a bit more work. Stock they have 10” drums and no c clips. I actually like those little axles

Also, with the wheel off, try turning the rotor by hand and see if the contact with the pad is consistent.

When you removed the old rotors did you get all the rust and debris off of the unit bearing so you get a nice clean seat for the new rotor? I’d take the rotor off and compare it with the old one also.

Is this your truck? Any pics? I can’t open the link

Have an odd little vacuum sound. I run a dual diaphragm 8” booster and an electric vacuum pump that runs fairly high vacuum (24in). Recently, when I let off the brake pedal their is a vacuum suction sound that lasts for just a second then sounds like a valve closes shut. Almost sounds like something is a bit sticky in the booster and needs some oil. The booster isn’t leaking at all while breaking and works fine otherwise. Any ideas what it could be?

i believe the “heavy duty” components they are talking about is just the standard upgrades found on new ax15’s. I went through two rebuilt units before I found a good used one that worked perfectly. A new tranny can be had cheap enough that I wouldn’t get a rebuilt one. I’d go with a good used or new

I tried that on mine and it worked somewhat. Definitely not as miraculous an effect as I was hoping. Not sure if the plastic is harder than a headlight but it was tough to polish

Depends on wether your a buyer or seller

Any chance they gave you the water pump for a wrangler? They spin in the opposite direction of XJ/MJs

Very odd. Will the snap ring stay in place and not spin at all in the housing? If not, use some green loctite to fix it in place and let it cure before reinstalling

This is where your mark should align:

That speedo gear is not clocked properly. Turn it until it fits correctly. The snap ring should never interfere with the speedo gear. That’s a strange tail housing that doesn’t have a fully machined groove for the snap ring all the way around! Do you know what kit that is?

FYI this problem was due to a burnt out fuse for the cooling fans.

Almost any auto parts store carries them in the hardware section. Auto glass shops also normally carry a huge selection of those clips since they deal with trim panels every day.

I’m running a Singer 230A. It’s a recent install though so it’s possible this was damaged before the alternator upgrade

Turns out it was the fuse for the cooling fans. I think the fan controller is not cutout for the current draw of the fans. Going to upgrade to a bigger controller.

As I write this, I’m sitting on the side of the road waiting for my MJ to cool down. It’s always 85 or so every day here on island. For those of you who know my MJ, the built engine is super clean and has no contaminants in the coolant. I run a flowkooler water pump with billet impeller, Hesco ported thermostat housing, aluminum dual core radiator and an oem 195 thermostat. The truck will run cool for a good long while after starting. Zero issues for probably 30 mins. After some stop and go traffic it starts. Long uphill pulls will also set it off. Once it climbs to 210 it will just keep on going. There are no coolant leaks that I can tell and I’ve done my absolute best to burp the air out of the system. Radiator cap is good and is a 13 or 16lb unit (can’t remember off the top of my head). Any ideas? I have no compression in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I know the oem design is very lacking but this is a bit ridiculous. By the way, running triple 10 fans with controller and optima yellow top battery with 230a Singer alternator so power is not an issue.

Just lookup an injector calculator. Remember that a 24lb Injector is rated at a higher fuel pressure that our systems are set for so you really aren’t getting 24lbs from it. I believe our actual fpr are set for 38lbs with no vacuum???

They’re not, I checked. Haven’t seen that MJ around for a while and it was rusting to death.

the long and short speed gears are actually both compatible with the tail housing. Only the sending units are different. Your sye tailshaft probably has a plastic gear held in with a couple of snap rings. Try removing that tail cone and inspecting that plastic gear up close. Also make sure the gear has both rings in place and can’t move around

No need to go that far into the system unless you want to replace the evaporator core. Just check for vacuum going through the firewall where the ac lines connect to the expansion valve. That vacuum line feeds the vacuum for the hvac switch panel.

It should be plenty smooth. Are you sure you have it aligned properly? It’s always a bit tricky since it does not align with the hold down bolt but rather with a ridge near the bottom of the tail cone. If you 100% sure there isn’t anything wrong with the alignment then take a picture of your tail shaft speedo splines and look for damage. Also check your speedo gear sending unit for runout when turning the speedo gear

Have you checked rock auto? They used to carry all the splash guards as recently as a year ago. They may still have them.

I would think tar paper would be pretty similar. It’s for roofing but it’s thick stuff about 1/8” - 3/16” or so