ghetdjc320

@HellCreek is still producing the rear leaf springs for I believe a 4” lift. Custom manufacturers like Alcan are also options. For the front, almost any lift that works for an XJ will work for an MJ. Most on here will say to steer clear of Rustys Offroad. Same goes for Rough Country.

Ahh ok, that kit will only work for the front of your MJ but the rear leaf springs are not compatible. The Comanche has rear leaf springs that go under the axle but the Cherokee uses them over the axle. You can add about 5+/-“ when you move the mounts from beneath the axle to over the axle on an MJ. This is known as a soa or spring over axle swap. Apologies if you already know this, just trying to be thorough. Most of us try to determine what size tire we would like to run before deciding how much lift to install. It helps you plan your supporting modifications that way like: proper gearing, driveshaft angles, steering modifications, wheel well openings/flares etc. A nice 3-4” lift with the appropriate flares could accommodate a 33” tire without too many supporting modifications. Normally going 35+” tires will require quite a bit more fab work and some skills with the metal glue gun. perhaps consider something in the 2.5-4” lift range. We can help you put together the components you will need so you will have your bases covered.

Time for the saga to continue. Was able to find all nos front mud flaps thanks to @fiatslug87. Will be trimming a set of fronts to be a set of rear and will use the scarfab brackets he just sent me. Also picked up a 240A Singer alternator. I’m sick of not having enough amps at idle to drive everything.

Just incase anyone sees this in the future, I rebuilt my ring and pionion and installed new bearings and set the proper preload, backlash etc. Everything turned out great, but the noise was still there... Turns out it was actually the front transfer case output shaft rear needle bearing. The noise was very hard to pinpoint and it’s that ridiculously hard to get out bearing. Part number J2416 from Timken.

Just picked up a second set from him for the rears. I’ll trim them with the templates I posted for the rears. Ordered the brackets already so they will look completely stock. Thanks for the tips!

Completely agree width all the comments above. Just also steer clear of the ax5 tranny that was used on 4cyls for a while. Made by Aisin also but not nearly as stout as the ax15. The aw4 in mine has been a great tranny with pretty much zero issues when properly maintained and cooled. I will say though, it is a power hungry trans as many auto’s are. I’d love to swap to an ax15 at some point in time

Do you have a link? Is it made for an MJ or an XJ? Any 6” lift requires a lot of supporting mods

No kidding, so much easier to use than drill bits and they are self centering

For future reference, you can use a reamer to drill out the taper in the knuckles and pitman arm

Nice! I was wanting to just get the speedometer and put it in my HO cluster but ended up getting a set of the azzy gauge overlays and didn’t want to go through the hassle of having them customize the number layout

You planning to swap over the obd2 system from the 97? I’d swap the dash, doors, console and seats from that 97. Maybe even the front clip if you like the look.

Came across this and wanted do get it for my mj but decided against it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1995-Jeep-Cherokee-RHD-Instrument-Cluster-Gauges-w-115-MPH-Speedometer/274358235210 haven’t seen to many of those for sale though

Thanks, just saw that. Will reply shortly

Kick panel? I’d take the tan drivers side kick panel. Send me a pm for payment info

@75sv1 are you running stock size wj brakes and Akebono 2-piston calipers or something else? Never seen a big brake kit for the wj but that would be a neat upgrade if doing the knuckle swap

Dual diaphragm is great but check your engine vacuum at idle first. My engine has a custom cam that doesn’t produce much vacuum so I’m running a dual diaphragm pump with a leed electric booster

There are many different boosters that will work. 95 and later XJ with dual diaphragm boosters as well as WJ. None are a direct swap but if you own a grinder and drill you can make them work. A 95 xj booster is a perfect fit on the 91-92 mjs but requires modification for the brake light switch and pedal fitting for earlier mjs. Almost all boosters will require the same mods for the pre 91 mjs

Need more details. Please tell us the info on the donor and recipient vehicles.

What year mj do you have?

I agree with the regional pricing differences. It’s going to be a factor for sure. The rust belt has almost depleted the MJs available and the global supply is dwindling. The newest mj is still 28 years old and is appreciating in value. Anymore, if someone is really looking for an MJ it seems that they aren’t confining their search to just a small area (at least, they shouldn’t be doing that if they want to find the right truck). I think one of the biggest factors in pricing fluctuations is that there is really no guidance for what to sell or buy an mj for. I think we all have varying views on what constitutes a parts truck vs something that can be restored also. Perhaps if we can put together a pricing overview it will help keep things a bit more consistent. If someone runs across an 88 chief for example, (always wanted one) that’s been in storage and has low mileage, we should all be able to give an idea what a good price would be for that vehicle. Or if someone find a 92 eliminator 4x4 with every option but has some rust and is a bit run down, I think we can still get a good price range consensus. Obviously there is no way to cover every possibility.

Just added 6 categories that are used for insuring classic vehicles. Let me know if you think those categories are sufficiently descriptive or if they need to be adjusted

Thanks all! Not planning to get too detailed. Just propose getting a general value guide put together.

I’ll keep updating the original post for the latest info. Ok, let’s start with all the different trim levels

Quadratec now makes a copy of those wheels called the “41”: https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/41-wheel-wrangler-jk-jl/gray

Those are JT rims on mine. I really didn’t like my wheels to stick out and between the necessary adapter and the oem backspacing, the wheels are right at neutral. I was thinking along the lines of method or raceline wheels though. May change that out down the road. Here is a closeup of the wheel