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I’ll take some pics of mine. I’m 50/50 on trying it but since I was doing some work on fit anyways it’s probably not a bad idea

These were NOS black trim taillights that I had purchased and decided to have a body ship shoot them with clear right out of the box. Suffice it to say, they are morons a shot way to thick of a coat on it. I’ve been very apprehensive about how to going about fixing this abomination. These lights are 100% new under this stupid clear coat job. Last pic is striper laid out over the leftover black paint the PO used. This was originally on the entire truck before I blasted it all off. The bed was never prepped so this was never removed. Beware: the following contains graphic content which some users may find disturbing:

I’ve been looking seriously at opening up my tailgate so I can straighten it. In the past I e seen people try to stud weld and pull out and defects but that’s a no go for my tailgate. There are a few spot welds that would need to come out but other than that it doesn’t look too bad to separate the panels at the seams. Any thoughts.

Any reason you went with RCV’s over the revolution 1350 shaft kit? I’ve been tossing that idea around as well

Also been eyeing some arb lockers for the front and rear. Right now I’ve been running an open front and truetrac rear with 27 spline chromo shafts. If I switch I’ll go with the Revolution super 35 kit with 30 spline shafts and locker.

Good info! Since I run the cowl intake, I have plenty of room where the old air box was. Been thinking possibly going with either a psc external reservoir pump or put my air compressor in that area. I’m going to check also on the TJ air compressor mount from MORE. It mounts over the intake manifold. If there is enough room between there and the hood, it’s not a bad spot. I’m running the arb twin setup and planning to mount a tank also for air tools and tires.

You have to have a direction with any build. Throwing money at something doesn’t work. It has to be invested properly. This truck is a good example of throwing money at something imho

In measuring the stock speaker grill sizes for the doors and b pillars I noticed they were pretty much the same size. I also have the lower dash piece from a later model Cherokee with the lower dash tweeter grills. Although they are not directed toward the listener well, they are in a relatively close position to the woofer to provide good imaging. So my latest thought is upgrading the b pillars to 5.25” coaxial (or possibly components with the right tweeter installation) speakers and components up front in the stock locations. Sound isolation and dampening will be the key along with a good amp.

Clean truck and a good price. I wouldn’t haggle with him unless there were some glaring defects. Honestly makes me want to buy it and just leave it with some fam in Portland. Mine was advertised as a 92 but was a 91 eliminator that had very little left to tell it was an eliminator package. One giveaway is the firewall insulation. Mine also had matching flares that had been painted over with rattle can bedliner . Other than a short bed HO the only other MJ I’d consider is an 88 chief. The long bed MJ’s would be cool as a towing/hauler setup but I’d never want to wheel with one.

Your word count has got to be close to the highest out there lol. I enjoy your essays though. Very methodical and informative

And into the audio side. @Minuit, I know you’ve been curious what I am planning on doing. Honestly I’ve been pretty curious myself. So many challenges in car audio vs integrated home or commercial audio. A few goals I’m trying to stick with: 1. Keep as much cargo space as possible behind the seat (if I get a good bed cover I may nix this idea but for now I need covered space). 2. Keep it clean and away from the eyes of thieves. With these goals in mind, the stock speaker layout does keep cargo space and a clean look but the location of the B pillar 4x6 speakers is marginal at best. High frequencies will be muffled by the seats and cargo behind them. Ideally I would match front and rear speaker sizes and keep them timbre matched. My Sony head unit does a decent job of powering some high sensitivity speakers and I’m not looking to win a DB contest. Also, quieting down the truck is a top goal but this isn’t a Mercedes and there is only so far I can go. So getting some high end of Focals or Morrels in there will be a bit of a waste since any road noise will make it difficult to discern the sound quality difference. I’m a bit picky about symmetry and keeping all components branded the same but really, the only things that matters is the quality of each individual component and that the midrange and tweeters be timbre matched. That being said, I’m considering two courses: 1. Simply adding a decent low profile powered sub and keeping all stock speaker locations. This would give me the most cargo room and be cost effective. 2. Custom building the back panel and adding in the speaker config I am looking for (4) 5.25-6.5 components and (2) 8-10” subs

On another note, just ordered up new ball joints, artec gussets for the inner C’s, Gibson ceramic coated header and a whole wire braiding kit to get the under hood detailed and organized. Also ordered an arb OBA kit I’m looking forward to installing.

The only option I have here is Rhino liner or Hippo Liner from dominion sure seal. Since the rhino liner is done by a shop I’m going with the dominion sure seal and will roll it on (after some good prep lol). The dominion sure seal is some very good stuff. Never saw it much stateside but it’s a Canadian company and is very similar to Monstaliner. No rubber crumb in it either. I was able to remove all the liner except for the bed caps. Still debating what to do with those but will probably remove them and do it right.

It’s called web wheeling lol and it happens when we spend more time thinking about projects than actually working on them. You’re in almost every thread with a 2 bit comment like “that’s cool”, “good idea” or ““. Nothing wrong with that but it makes for a bunch of posts with little content.

“Pete has organized the site well, so knowledge and experience here are relatively easy to find before you toss out a basic or very common inquiry.”

Oooh, that would be mine if I was there.

They never prepped the surface at all. Just a mess. No cleanup no prep just mask and spray. I don’t think I’m letting any shop touch my truck ever lol

Well before I go that route I have to take care of this:

“Jeeppeed”

So the build direction is going towards a “sleeper” setup lol. Debating whether to up the power while staying NA or going FI. I’m running an estimated 240-250hp right now. Also been eyeing a custom paddle shifter setup. I’d like to give any new truck a run for their money I suppose. It’s always tricky to integrate new tech while paying homage to the original. Fuel management becomes quite an ordeal also. If I stay NA I’ll keep it on the stock sbec fuel system. If I go FI I’m not to keen on the piggy back controllers so I’d much prefer to go stand alone.

Simple right? And no one actually suggested that lol

Here are the other ones I’m considering: https://ironman4x4fab.com/products/xj-track-bar-system https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-adjustable-front-trackbar-w-bracket-1984-2001-xj-zj whichever one I get I want to definitely tie in the passenger side frame rail.

Awesome, that was one I was looking at also. Did your have the cross brace with it?

I tried shrinking the video as much as possible but I just can’t get it under the 39mb upload limit.

Maybe it’s just me but I hat the look of the dirtbound off-road flares. If they just extended all the way down they would look better. But they stop short and make it look odd