ghetdjc320

Sounds like the pump may have gone out. So zero power steering now at idle?

Many track bar options out there but for a lifted stock configuration Currie or JKS. Track bar and steering geometry have to match so if you aren’t changing steering geometry stick with a stock style track bar system. There are very few if any options for a stock style linkage with an upgraded frame-side mount

The General Spring/SD truck springs 4 leaf pack lifted my rig 2.5” with no settling. The 5 leaf pack lifts a tiny bit more. Unfortunately, they don’t make a 2wd leaf spring equivalent with a stock or stockish arch. The springs fit fine but they are definitely not oem replicas.

I used a universal hose kit from jeepair.com also used the newer style (plate and fin vs tube and fin) evaporator with good success.

And just to add my $.02 regarding mounts: get oem mounts. All the solid aftermarket mounts (including brown dog rubber mounts) transmit far too much to the truck. The oem ones seem like a weak setup but work the best. 100% Mopar ones though not the aftermarket oem style ones.

You got a bit of an issue here that I’m sure someone who has done a proper obd2 swap can help with. I can tell you what you need to go aftermarket and fix what you have but it’s quite a bit of mod work involved. The problem you have is that you have what is known as a “return less” fuel system. In 96 when obd2 was introduced Jeep started to phase in a new fuel plumbing system in which the fuel pressure regulator was built into the sending unit as opposed to being on the fuel rail as before. It used to be that there was a feed line from the pump and a return line. The pressure regulator was located on the fuel rail and regulated the pressure by returning all fuel over a set psi to the fuel tank. The newer design uses a regulator in the tank so the supply line from the fuel pump is regulated and doesn’t require a return line since there is never excess fuel pressure. The problem you have is that the old style fuel system was used which requires a pressure regulator and return line. Without that pressure regulator and return line, the fuel pump is just pushing it to the max and only the internal relief valve (if it still works) is giving the pump any relief. Here is your second issue: the newer fuel system electronics you have require a consistent, preset fuel pressure since the fuel mapping is set based on that pressure. I couldn’t say for sure what pressure you are actually getting but my guess is that the internal relief valve of the pump (if it still works) is around 70-100 psi. Now here is what you need: it’s going to be a huge ton of work to swap over to the earlier fuel injection electronics at this point. So I would focus on the fuel system. There is no drop-in fuel sending unit with the newer style return-less setup that drops into the MJ tank. XJ parts for the most part don’t fit the tank. Now there may be an oem solution to this that I am unaware of. If there is hopefully someone will chime in. The aftermarket route would involve installing a stand alone fuel pressure regulator. I use fuelab regulators but there are many options here. I don’t remember exactly the fuel pressure you need to maintain for that obd2 fuel injection system but I believe it is high 50’s psi. Most regulators are adjustable so you will need to set the psi with the engine running to the correct psi. The regulator typically will have a gauge port that you’ll need to tap into or, better yet, get a nice Russell gauge and install it on the regulator. Now the tricky part to explain without me pulling a ton of small connectors and part numbers is the plumbing of an external regulator. You have a single steel line that will have to transition to a rubber line to install the regulator. You will need all the proper adapters and fittings to get this accomplished. I unfortunately don’t have the time to look up all the number you will need. And keep in mind that this is an aftermarket solution so your not going to find a kit that has everything you need. I would suggest using 3/8 and 5/16 hardline quick connect to -6 an fittings. But you’ll also need -6 male o-ring fittings to fuel hose adapters, clamps etc. Napa, oreillys, auto zone center etc won’t have these parts on the shelves and won’t have a clue what your talking about. Summit, Jegs and other will have what you need. Also, lookup diagrams for installing an adjustable regulator with return line. That will give you a good overview of how this works I’ll all work. The regulator will probably need to be mounted in your engine bay on the drivers side. Once you have the plumbing sorted out, replace that existing fuel pump with just a good quality replacement pump for a 91-92 mj or 91-95 XJ. Again, NOT the sending unit and pump since they won’t fit. You just need the pump since the one you have now has likely had enough. Hopefully this will fix your fueling issues for you

Picked up all mine new at oreillys. They are just regular sockets in the electrical section

SOA. I had soa with stock 4 leafers and it was right at 5.5” over stock. The GS 4 leaf pack raised it to 8” over stock after settling. Ended up trashing them and installing some used springs from JW jeep

New springs from GS will lift a lot more. Just stock replacement 4 leafs we’re about 2-2.5” taller AFTER settling.

My 91 has the “double sided” key style. It’s the original column and switch I believe.

Interestingly enough, my 92 police package cluster has the exact same style gauges. I swapped in all but my rpm gauge from that police xj to my 91mj but my tach doesn’t match since it’s the newer (91) style.

Holly cow! Lol, please read the rest of the thread and my subsequent comments

Go Mopar for all available sensors if you want decently accurate gauges lol. Does the rpm read accurately when running or is it always off by a bit?

I know I was able to use a wilwood clutch MC and it worked fine with the stock slave cylinder. Hopefully that helps somewhat

Yeah they fit ok and work fine. I’d go long arm though if I was doing it again

I have them

I’d go Cummins. The LS has been done time and time again. A diesel MJ is one of my dream builds. I’ve seen that 2.8 in action and it’s quite impressive. There are other diesel options out there though that could be considered and are more readily swapped and economical (om617 for instance)

Just make sure to get oem ones

Looks like a Dana 30. The bottom picture looks like it is from a grand Cherokee since it has CV joints instead of U joints.

Only grab the oem sets from rock auto. Nothing comes close to fitting like oem. Ie tried many others

Correct, but being that the OP is in Poland and things tend to get more complex on international models, I suggest simply getting an ax15 from an XJ with “matching” np231. There’s long, short and medium input gears along with various spline options. But no need to complicate things

The np231j is your typical jeep transfer case. The only major differences is the input gear. Early model np231s and ones found behind 2.5l engines had 21 splines. Most ax15 transmissions had 23 splines

Your ideal transmission would be a 94+ ax15 from an XJ. The bellhousing has an external clutch slave cylinder and the transmission will have a 3/4” input shaft and 23 spline output shaft. Then add a matching np231. You will need the appropriate speedometer gear for your tire size and gears

AX15 is the much stronger option. The speedometer (vss) will be relocated to the transfer case once converted. This site has some good information about transmission compatibility and power ratings for our Jeeps: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/