cruiser54

...good tip...and if the oil is fuel fouled, what's up? Compression numbers are good at last check at or close to 135 across the board. Fuel is getting by the rings and into the crankcase. Leaky injectors are usually the cause. Have you done a fuel pressure test? See how long the rail holds pressure after shutting the Jeep off.

Old trick used on big rigs. Pull the dipstick. Let the oil drip on the "web" between your thumb and index finger. Does the oil spider out into every little wrinkle in your hand? If so, oil is fuel fouled.

http://www.brucereed.com/Humor/SiphonGas.htm

IPAs are my favorite.

Here's how to test it: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013 The problem with the ohms test (which is what the FSM calls for) is that you're supposed to check the resistance "at normal operating temperature." How are we supposed to get the engine (or the CPS) up to normal operating temperature if it won't start? And heat affects resistance, so it's not like we can pretend it doesn't matter. Aside from being an unreliable test, it's quite a catch-22.

If it turns out to be the ignition switch, you owe me a beer.

Here's how to test it: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

Not the aftermarket ones, right?

Don't let the starting thing scare you off. Use it as a tool to beat him down on price. You have plenty of support here to get her up to snuff in no time.

The big brown wire at your ignition switch is probably burned and the switch is bad.

Do the basic stuff first as suggested. Did you know that 4 critical sensors share the same poorly designed and constructed ground path? Have you checked the intake manifold bolts?

You obviously haven't ever clicked on the link in my signature.... Start with the ground refreshing, the 13th write-up. Then the 7th post, connector refreshing. CPS testing is the 9th post. Do these in the order presented above. The 15th post, Coil/ICM contacts.

Yo! Time to do that stuff, eh?

First off it's not OBD-1 but Renix. How are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Ever clean the throtte body and IAC? Are the intake manifold bolts loose? Have you ever done the ground refreshing that's in my signature?

Are the holes on the intake and exhaust manifold the same size? Yes

22MM by 1.5.

I think used only.

Have you run the engine yet? Was the compression test done on a warm engine or just when you unwrapped it? Either way, I'm with Jim. Run it.

It has a gasket. I re-used mine after cleaning it up and putting a thin coat of RTV on each side.

Thanks for that info. My mechanic will test the temp going to and out of the cat. He will use a infra-red temp gauge. He said the cat will heat up the exhaust fumes. The readings should be hotter on the back end. If it is not, then the cat is blocked. (Or is he just blowing smoke?) That's a quick and easy way to do it.

CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

That's a Fey universal rear bumper that just happens to look a lot like our stock bumpers. They're pretty much the #1 option for MJ owners replacing their bumpers that don't build their own (or build the JCR bumper) Stock rear bumpers also rust really badly from what I've seen regardless of the rest of the truck's condition. A lot of the MJs came in with NO rear bumper. Just brackets holding a 2 by 4. Dealers added the Fey bumpers and other brands.

Don't doubt it. Nice work!!!

Woohoo. That's some serious output voltage. Start a bit quicker?

Get another dizzy then. Index that one. Be sure it seats fully as some remans have a longer shaft not allowing the dizzy to seat perfectly.