cruiser54

How about 5?

This should help Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1991 to 1995 YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa). TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler 87-95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)

Describe "went over" grounds and connections.

This would be very helpful OP. This should be a requirement for all Renix owners, seriously. OP, if your truck is either an 1987,88,or 90 you should really REALLY take the time and do the procedures described in the link. Don't forget 89!!

Better late than never!!

Good. Do 1 and 3 next. Your TPS may be bad but you can check that later.

Same here. How's the visibility?

7.5 amp "trans" fuse powers the Power/Comfort switch.

You Jim, are the only other person I've ever heard using that term except myself for over 35 years!!!

I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5. First thing on my to-do list this weekend. At the dealership in the day, we were replacing parts left and right, with a crappy factory tester guiding us and had repeat failures. We came to find out that the bulk of the issues came from poor grounds to the sensors.

I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5.

Do the stuff in post 5. There's no silver bullet cure for this.

Click on the link in my signature and do #1, 3, and 5 for starters.

If it runs with the idle mixture screwed all the way in, you have a VACUUM LEAK. And how in the hell was the timing "dead on" with a loose distributor?

By golly, you've found it!!

Well, Reverend, since we're called to carry each other's burdens, here's what you're looking for. 31 PSI at idle and 39 PSI with the vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator.

Ain't the regulator. Fuel volume and pressure are probably the issue. Carter or Bosch pumps are the best. This can be tested.

Reset the TPS. GF's 92 is a different animal altogether.

Possibly. Is it consistently doing this or just sometimes upon start-up?

If it's not the fuel pump itself, it could be the hose internally between the pick-up and pump.........

So it's all still good? I'm rapidly approaching becoming an advocate for C101 elimination. Try shooting for .82 or .83 on your TPS setting.

Did you ever do the sensor ground test? Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate. Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too. You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well. Revised 06/12/2012

Carb cleaner works quite well. have you snugged up the intake manifold bolts? Has someone, sometime messed with the throttle butterfly stop screw? How did you adjust the TPS and which plug did you use, flat or square?

yes. Bypass it.