cruiser54

Just try unplugging the compressor first. AC relay is the furthest one back, closest to the firewall.

I tend to install aftermarket gauges in EVERYTHING, so the stock clusters are mostly ancillary for me. I thoughgt the AMC logo on the bottom left of my stock cluster was an idiot light of sone sort. If it isn't, what is its purpose? Low fuel light?

By the way, welcome to Comanche Club. When you get a chance, click on the link in my signature below for some headache saving tips for your Renix MJ.

Yes. Here's how: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. O Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY. How did you do it? http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-zj-disc-brakes-cherokee-xj-chrysler-8-25-a-57807/

This is a good way to eliminate that troublesome vacuum crap on the front axle. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

Thanks Pete. I had it bass ackwards.

Sounds like the way to go. I THINK the perches are further apart on an MJ than an XJ but that's easy to address. Putting Grand Cherokee discs on an 8.25 is EASY.

Have one welded into the new header.

Yes. It will fit. There is no EGR bung in the replacement. You need a newer style headpipe with a bung for the O2 sensor.

Fuel pump dying on you? How's the ground for the fuel pump? Behind the driver's side taillight.

Heavy duty 552 flasher.

Back then they were using British master cylinders IIRC. Girling. Since the Brits can never seem to get hydraulics to work and use good soft components, the seals in the master deteriorated. Some say because of the wrong fluid used. There was actually another issue. Whatever fluid the factory used reacted with the inside of the soft tube between the cylinders. This created a grit in the system which took out the cylinders' seals. So, the solution was to always replace both cylinders and the hose. Use modern fluid. That said, how come you're adding fluid now? Is it quite low? Perhaps a leak?

could a 96 XJ also have this switch? mine drops out of gear sometimes when I come to a stop but no other time. Yes, I think so. The torque converter needs to get unlocked the instant the brake pedal is depressed.

What if there was a short in the reverse lamp bulbs themselves?

They're all that way. Mumblemeters and SAE mixed together.

If it were me, I would also do tips 2 through 5 in my signature link. Good lesson learned so far, eh? LOL.

I'd be interested in seeing the brake bleeding procedure. I COULD go get my manual from the garage I guess. Dadinator, have someone pump the pedal and you look for bubbles in the master cylinder. After the Jeep has run a bit, pull the plastic valve out of the booster. Is vacuum present?

I wonder if your "new" EGR is leaking internally....... Try starting it with the TPS disconnected on the "engine" side. Also, at this high idle, cover the idle bleed hole in the throttle body with your finger. It's right above the IAC.

Possibly bad TPS. Anyone ever screw with the throttle body adjustment screw? Of my tips shown in my signature, which have you competed?

Those ECUs are dumber than a rock. No adaptivity there.

Could be your O2 sensor dying. Unplug the sensor and use an ohmmeter between the red and black wires of the sensor plug. Should have 6 to 8 ohms.

Trans switch in Power or comfort mode? Does it light up in Power mode? Also, there is a switch up near the top of the brake pedal. White with a pin sticking out the middle and resting on the pedal. You should not be able to see the pin unless the brake pedal is depressed. The switch is easily adjusted. The switch unlocks the torque converter whenever the brake pedal is depressed. Could a maladjusted switch, along with a wiggly pedal be an issue? Takes 2 minutes to check and adjust.

What's the fuel pressure mod?

Click on the link in my signature and read post 1. Numerous critical sensors share the same crappy ground circuit. Take care to do all that's recommended there first. I have seen just doing that, an oxygen sensor start working when it didn't before.