cruiser54

I'd do the valve cover mod while I had it off. Post 25 in my link below

I've got one from a 90 manual for $35 plus shipping. I've driven the Jeep. But, since you have a manual trans, you can use either/or. Auto or manual.

That was my first thought.

Nah. Better throttle response though.

Supposedly that's an issue but I've never experienced it. we resurfaced flywheels at the dealership all the time.

I've used 3 or 4 of theirs. Work great.

Corn happens to be one of the most heavily subsidized crops in the country. So, we're paying for that, too........

You may be pleased with the results. I know you'll post them up.

Big PITA to go through to get a 58mm throttle body when you can get a 60mm Renix throttle body from www.strokedjeep.com for about $100.

They appear to use the same connector in the wiring diagram.

Progress. Hunting idle can be caused by a bad O2 sensor. That said, I've seen the O2 sensor readings before and after a C101 elimination, and a sensor we condemned before , was just fine after.....

Ditch the C101. Post 27 in my link below.

Guess where all the solenoids ground? Engine dipstick tube stud. Along with the shift logic ground and the TCU ground.

Only 87s came without them, and if a customer complained about fuel pump noise, there was a retrofit kit the dealer installed.

This^^. There is one offset mounting hole so it will only go on one way. It's slight, but it's there.

Always get high altitude when given the choice. More timing advance!!!

Whenever the butterfly is adjusted, the TPS needs to be re-adjusted on the engine side connector.

Couldn't hurt as they are a weak point in the system. get a quality one though, and do the drilling mod to it. Also take extra care to route the harness on it properly.

Yup. Normal stuff.

.3 is kinda low. Read this below, and since you have an 87 I would do posts 1 through 5, and really 27, in the link in my signature, before proceeding further. Known issues. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

Kinda sorta. It's a diagram of the CPS and it's location. The overbored upper hole is outlined in post 7 of my Renix tips in my signature below.

Sends a stronger signal to the eCU sooner so the eCU gives the command "Fire!" a bit earlier. Added benefit is that if there's resistance in the wiring from the CPS to the Ecu, you've got the extra voltage.

You referring to the 258?

The indicator is the transfer case lever position. The light is vacuum activated by a vacuum switch on the transmission. You shouldn't need it at all. We drove for decades with only lever position to tell us which range we were in.

Yellow wire in the 2 wire plug. Are you done yet?