cruiser54

I do that on all My Renix Jeeps. The part number for the nipple is 53007563AB. If you wanna snag one at the JY, be sure you have a 15/15" socket with ya.

090 is SAE and it's comparable Wix is 1085 or 51085. 51626 is metric.

Not always. The metric filter will thread on to an SAE filter nipple. It will also UNthread itself down the road............. Couple of years ago when I first got mine MJ I got one of the SAE filters and it did not thread on........later year 2.5 I think it was. The issue was that the M20 filter WOULD thread on to the 3/4" nipple. The SAE filters would NOT thread on to the M20 nipple.

I woulda skipped the Lucas.. Shine a light into the oil filler hole and assess the sludge buildup.

Not always. The metric filter will thread on to an SAE filter nipple. It will also UNthread itself down the road.............

What brand of oil filter is on there? You might read this also. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/4-0-low-oil-pressure-idle-fixed-1304679/

From the front diff. Just top that off and you're good to go.

Keep us posted and if you have any questions, post them up.

Click on the link in my signature and do the ground refreshing, coil/ICM refreshing, connector refreshing and the C101 refreshing.

The dealer stat #52028186 is NOT a fail-safe.

Check to see that the engine to trans bolts aren't loose.

Try this" Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

Done it all my life. People are getting weirder and feeling more entitled. It's the "Mommy,come wipe me" society.

Too many variables here. And, room for error as far as parts used in the swap. Seems it's the dizzy being installed wrong in 99% of these swaps. Carnuck, you need to go to the kid's place and exercise your expert assistance. Pretend he's a guy posting on here asking for advice. Give him some.

Dizzy is in wrong.

Click on the link in my signature and check out CPS testing, ground REfreshing, C101 refreshing. Do those first.

Refresh the C101 per my instructions in my link and do the sensor ground test.

Thanks for clarifying all this carnuck.

Easiest to deal with real world info and facts than bouncing around like a bunch of paupers in a pay toilet. We look forward to your findings tomorrow.

One step at a time. IS THERE a tag on either diff? Go look.

This stuff we need to know. Otherwise we're just guessing.

Master cylinder or a leaking hose/tubing/fitting. Time for some noggin pokin'.

Blaine, regroup here for us. What axles and which ratios are under your truck currently?

Welcome. I can take a photo of my jack/handle etc for ya if ya want.

from what I've read on alldata it lists the circuit timer as one of the input signals so it will purge the egr. I'll mess with it tomorrow when i get a chance and make sure it's working. if not, Arizona registration, here I come lol That's a crock. It's a TIMER to remind you to replace your O2 sensor at 67,500 miles or 82,500 miles. I don't remember.