cruiser54

Look at the 7th post in my link below for the connector mentioned by Strokermjcomanche.

I want to do a complete HO swap because the PO thrashed the renix harness.. Understood then.

From the factory the dizzys were indexed wrong for the most part. About the 10th post in my link. They run better when they're indexed properly. The tang is on the end of the dizzy shaft and is part of it. Goes into the oil pump drive. Not unusual on reman dizzys to get one that the shaft is too long, not allowing the dizzy to seat all the way down.

The single, biggest reason for changing out the OEM injectors is the fact that they can leak where the housing is crimped together, causing gas to spray on your hot exhaust manifold. The MPG gain is minimal, better idle quality is nice, as is the SLIGHTLY better throttle response.

There are easier ways to do the engine swap. You really wanna go hogwild and swap harnesses?

Well, be aware that alot of the replacements have a longer "tang" on the bottom of them and don't seat fully. Good time to index your dizzy also. The 10th write-up in my link.

Napa Premium cap and rotor with brass terminals, NGK 7252 plugs, Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm plug wires. I wouldn't replace the dizzy. Too many crappy ones out there.

Even though the TPS was bad, I just had it happen again yesterday, with the new TPS. So evidently the cause was NOT the TPS. How's YOUR C101? Sensor ground test results?

You can eliminate the C101 by soldering the wires together. I have a link somewhere. That said, I've found that most times cleaning the c101 thoroughly as you have done, fixes it forever.

Got a pic of your current seats?

My thoughts exactly. With everything marginal in the headlamp wiring system, and the switch itself, it's hit and miss. some folks have issues and some don't. That doesn't mean there's no issue as can be seen by observing the evidence. A supplemental harness is NEVER a bad idea on these Jeeps. Worse case is your factory lamps end up 35% brighter and your headlight switch won't fail on you. And, you know when it's gonna faillllat night!!!!

What about the dipstick tube stud area though? Clean and shiny?

The CTS and IAT, along with the MAP share the same ground circuit. If you haven't already, refresh the firewall to head ground and the dipstick tube stud grounds.

But it goes into 4L......

Yep. When it comes time to install it, be sure the ground contact points are shiny clean with no paint, and mount the relays with the plug side facing down.

What 64 Cheyenne said. I've done JUST the harness, harness and bulbs etc. Harness is absolutely the single biggest difference.

Now there's one heck of a thought!!

Why are you so fixated on removing an EFI system, that ALWAYS operates at the optimum air-fuel ratio, and replacing it with a carburetor that struggles to deliver an optimum air-fuel mixture and can really be optimized for doing so only under one or two load/RPM conditions? WAAAAAY back in time, when Jack Clifford was alive and running Clifford Performance & Research, my friend and fellow Hudson collector ran a Hudson Hornet-powered stock car that was set up with a Clifford triple Weber setup. The track where we ran was located immediately next to the Connecticut River. Typically, we had to run one set of jets for practice, then re-jet for the qualifying heats, and then re-jet again for the main event ... all due to falling temperature and rising humidity. That's how sensitive those things are. EFI would have taken care of that automatically, and far more accurately. Quite simply, IMHO you are heading in the wrong direction. Carburetors cannot do a better job of fuel management than modern EFI. Period. Exactly. Typical Weber behavior. I've had Webers, Mikunis, SUs etc and know how to jet and tune all of them properly. I'll stick with EFI.

Perhaps for the seasoned tuner, but not for the guy who is wading into uncharted waters as this original poster is.

Well stated and very true.

Unless you, or someone you know who works for free, knows how to jet and synchronize triple Weber DCOEs, you'll be in for even more added expense.

Haven't got a clue, huh? Put the shifter into 1-2. Pull the knob off. Remove the bezel that shows the gear indicator. See if the lock at the bottom is not working .

Mechanic is gonna do that as a matter of course in his alignment procedure. We don't want another 100 plus post thread!!!!!!!

Beats the cost of a headlight switch and associated melted plug/wiring and losing your headlights at night.. Cruiser, I'll let you say "I told you so" now. Sure enough, I never got around to doing anything about this, and not only did it melt the plug/wiring, it set the switch and wires on fire last week. If that's not encouragement for anyone else reading this thread, I don't know what else could be. $50 sure beats burning down the truck. I was fortunate enough to notice the fire and was able to put it out before it could do too much damage, and to have it happen in the daylight, but you might not be so lucky. As it is, no headlights when there's only eight hours of daylight, and having to pull the dash off to replace the wires and connectors for the switch as well as the switch itself sucks bad enough, in addition to having my Sunday Best smelling like burnt plastic. I can't quite imagine how much it would suck to lose the whole truck. Again, to everyone else, don't be an idiot like me. Not only does it beat the cost of the wiring, it could cost you your truck. This upgrade is definitely worth it, no two ways about it. You got alot of guts, bud,and a ton of respect from me for posting this!! Hopefully folks pay attention. AND, I'm glad your truck survived.