cruiser54

Valve cover is super easy. Step up to the pump and get the Felpro blue.

Do the stuff suggested in post 3 before dinking around replacing expensive parts. Takes an hour if you're real slow. Costs nothing..............

Do the sensor ground test-16th post C101 refresh-14th post Connector refreshing-7th post Ground refreshing-13th post in my link below. Get that stuff behind you before monkeying around changing parts. How did you adjust the TPS? Has it done this for a while or is it new?

Yup, but the Chrysler MPI 2.5 doesn't have the heated manifold.The truck has been running fine for awhile now, even at -5. I did get the temp gauge working and it seems to sit around 190, though is a bit sluggish. Probably due to the parts store tstat. To be replaced when I replace the water pump that occasionally weeps. g Get a factory stat for faster warmup.

At this point, dealer only. Best stats I've found so far.

Yes. And it has a heated intake manifold, doesn't it?

Underhood light is either gone or it never had one. Diagram shows red and black wires to that light.

Underhood light?

How would you know? Have you ever let your trans get so low on lube? LOL. It absolutely amazes me how many times we see this crap. Buy it. Drive it. Never check anything. Post on the forum when we have noises/issues. OP, don't take this personal but this stuff needs to be said!! It's not directed at you in particular, but to all those who do the same. A good lube, oil and filter change includes checking critical fluid levels/conditions on the trans, transfer case and diffs.

Meaning? Don't tell us that you didn't upon buying, or haven't as a normal course of maintenance, checked you drivetrain lubrication fluid levels and condition......

Not my area of expertise.

Does Wet Okole translate into "swamp @$$"?

What kind of play? Up and down?

Use a mirror and flashlight to inspect the freeze plug in the back of the head.

The part number I gave you is the correct exhaust bracket you need. But if you are happy with the steel wool and it works, go for it mate.

Don't sweat it. Worse things have happened.......

I agree. We should be tossing stuff in here about Travelalls, Eagles, 33,000 pound trucks, and 914s. Forget talking about Comanches in any way, shape or form........

Excellent idea.

Any vacuum line will work.

I HATE rattles and squeaks!!

That's funny. And, innovative.

Held in with duct tape?

Doesn't carnuck have you all lined out to repair that?

MAP sensor tube There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor, behind the valve cover, higher up on the firewall. It has one vacuum line as already mentioned, with a 3-wire plug in the bottom. CRUCIAL!! The MAP sensor will tell the ECU to dump fuel with little to no vacuum to the MAP. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. ( black smoke, fouled black plugs, must hold your foot to the floor to keep the engine running). You can pull the line off the MAP sensor and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs! A visual inspection usually reveals any issues with the line from the throttle body to the MAP sensor.

I'll take an old Renix block that has been overheated before I take an HO with poorly machined bore and piston slap issues. There is no reason to believe that the Renix blocks have been subject to so much abuse. The cylinder head is what took the hit in an overheat condition anyway. Plenty of HOs got hot also. There's no cure for stupid, no matter what folks are driving.