omega_rugal

you have a pressure leak, before you start throwing your wallet at it at it make sure you don´t have bad hose or fitting... when the engine is hot ans spitting coolant everywhere do the hoses feel pressurized?

the custom wooden tailgate i made that turns into a bed extension to hold stuff, its crude and ugly but works very well, if i only had time to sand it and paint it...

how much torque and HP?

4 cilinders usually idle at 900-1000, inline 6 700-800 and v8s can go as low as 500 rpm

the 4 cylinder idles higher by design...

the dana 44 should have been the default differential for the MJ, why Jeep decided to use the dana 35 in a truck that is likely to be abused? is idiotic now, i wish i had the time and resources to beef up my rear suspension...

if nothing is loose, check the steering box play, mine had Death wobble until i tightened the steering box...

if you have the equipment to make your own gears, i think not...

unless you find a good, complete ax15, you next option will be a AW4, you will need the driveshaft or mix and match parts due the 21 vs 23 spline difference...

3.07 is bad for towing and/or heavy loads... why Jeep? why?

get the entire truck, get all usable parts and, pains me to say it, dischard the rest...

an aftermarket temp gauge will have its own sender

this kinda dischards the CPS being hot and points to the fuel system... clogged filter?

mine has no vacuum stuff, all electric, i rewired it as a crude electronic throttle control, the OEM speed controls are long gone and i have a manual tranny so cruise control it´s useless for me... with this setup i accelerate, shift to top gear and lock the throttle in place, with 2 buttons for adjust + and - , pressing the brake resets the system... the only thing left to do is find a way to tune the + and - buttons: + is rather slow to increase the rpms but i have to quickly tap the - or else the throttle goes all the way down...

i thought Renix era cruise were electronic, mine had a square box with an electric motor inside...

add a leaf is the quickest way to add a couple off inches and some cargo capacity

i wanted to make this thread to condensate all the fixes and upgrades every new MJ user must perform remember there aren´t much Comanches left and must be preserved and improved - check for floor rust - do Cruiser´s tips - fix en reinforce door hinges (many fatsos like to hang off the door when exiting the truck) - double diaphragram brake booster upgrade - closed to open cooling (unless the closed system works ok, this can wait...) - replace the BA10/5 with AX15... or AW4

yesx3

check them first, continuity and see if they are not stuck...

from what i have seen, upgrading to disks with ZJ hardware is very easy, just need longer studs and to drill some new holes in a plate for on road use, the dana 35 seems fine

ok i´m impressed blow by almost non existent and engine temps are lower (before a round trip to the supermaket was enough to overflow the coolant to the bottle, now it doesn´t)

at this point, making custom tailights from whatever you can is a good idea...

thought i should share

145 psi? that´s good for a 4.0, carbon build up could explain the difference between cylinders i bet the best cylinder in my 4.0 gets less than 145... now i´m compelled to buy a compression test kit...

i think i´ll use it from now on, even if there´s not much improvement in compresion due very worn cylinder walls, at least the rings have some soft metal to ride on..