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Ωhm

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Everything posted by Ωhm

  1. A few months ago, maybe longer, someone asked about that connector. I looked up and down in the schematic and couldn't find it anywhere. Maybe someone knows, if so, can you put a connector number or explanation on it.
  2. When tail lamps are ON, one wire (DR BLUE) feeds B+ to all bulbs. Check for B+ everywhere along this wire.
  3. Larger gauge is always better (over kill). Do both lamps have the same gauge ground wire?
  4. Good call on splitting the Links. Remove the fuses shown in the photo. I doubt you have power door locks. Do you still have continuity? Do you have foglamps?
  5. Are both license plate lamps ON? Welcome to Forum.
  6. Cruiser has a tip out there for drilling out the mounting holes and moving the CPS closer to the trigger wheel (increasing signal strength). RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING
  7. Emission wise it shorten the "when it cold outside cold start" until the engine manifold heats up. Manifold vacuum should go to a bi-metal temperature sensitive switch, which then goes to the actuator on the front of the air box. Choice is preheated air or front air scoop. Major problem is when the shield on the exhaust manifold is rusted away.
  8. Ωhm

    1J7FT26L0LL204120

    Snatch that Relay Cover. Someone will want it.
  9. Can't tell. Relay blocks look like there locked together front to rear. Relay blocks goes to relay block cover bracket, cover bracket goes to fender well.
  10. Do your relay blocks have that pointee thing on the bottom of photo. Also are your relay block locked together with one another. Relay blocks slide together. Pointee thing goes in little hole on the relay cover bracket.
  11. If your looking for more pepper from your pepper shaker check this out: Salt and Pepper Trick
  12. Radio fuse goes straight to the cigar lighter and from the cigar lighter to the radio. Something not right at the cigar lighter connector or the wire between Radio fuse and the cigar lighter.
  13. Radio fuse is on a busbar with Turn Signals (TS) and Blower Motor (BM). Do TS and BM still function when Radio drops out?
  14. Check the terminals (poor connection/looseness) in the fuse block for the Radio fuse.
  15. Remove both battery cables. Remove all Fuse Links from the starter relay and separate each one. Take continuity between each Link and D2_4. Let's see if we can determine which Link is shorted to Ign Sw feed (I1).
  16. The real test now is to reconnect all disconnected connectors and try it again. See if engine shuts off using the key. There is some science to Ignition Switch replacement. I looked for DIY but couldn't find anything.
  17. Seen that in the first post. Still can buy new junk. When tracing wires all components (internal shorts) should be removed. A lot of wire wiggling going on near C103. Keep DVOM connected between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL) and wiggle wires, look for continuity. Inspect wires. Follow YEL.
  18. Need to take the Ignition Switch out of the picture. As of now, we should have continuity on the Engine Harness side between C103_B (RED) and C103_E (YEL). Disconnect the IGN SW connectors. Does continuity still exist between C103_B and C103_E?
  19. Its your YELLOW wire (C103_E) touching that Fuse Link circuit.
  20. Engine Control Harness shows good. Engine Harness now carries the problem. One good things is the RED wire should be short and only run to the Starter Relay (Fusible Link G (ORN)).
  21. Major blunder on my part, not paying attention to wire colors, wasted both time and energy. That's C103.
  22. Vacuum leaks would also cause idle speed to climb, yet you say 500rpms@idle. Possible faulty vacuum gauge????. Quick check the vacuum hose to the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR).Looking for leaks or fuel in the line. Does the FPR hold pressure when vacuum is applied or are you sucking fuel? Next test I would think should be a Compression Test (CT) for each cylinder.
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