Bob89manche

Motherf***** . It’s 100% the lamp connector. No clue as to when it was plugged into the coil or by whom. I just took it as if it were supposed to be there. JC I feel like an idiot

This solid red wire is coming from suspect fuse link, running into the connector, and from the other side running straight into the ign coil. The plug in the middle of the pos and neg terminals that rest into the clips on the top side of the ICM.

Correct

Tested coil. It passes. After c102 is dc’d we still have continuity. Tore RH headlamp out, there is no relay back there. Seems Like all wires running behind the grill are all solid. No problems

Solid red wire from this connector goes into IGN coil. Red/white goes behind RH headlight through the loom. With this connector DC’d, no problem. With IGN coil unplugged, no problem. On the ICM, multi wire connector unplugged, no problem, singlular yellow wire connector unplugged, problem persists. Is it possible the short from yellow to red exista in the coil? I replaced this early on in the summer

I think my under hood light was ripped out at some point. Would be a blessing if it was still there. It seemed to have originated at the green fuse link that has been problematic. It is possible that this is incorrect as I had a helper with me at the time.

Solid red wire on the right side of this connector has continuity with fuse link bundle disconnected

Removed all fuse links from starter relay. Tested continuity between d2-4 and problem fuse link. With fuses removed, no change(car not running). Fog lights remain on when fuse is pulled(car running)

This is the only fuse link that is reading resistance. It was 2 green fuse links in one ring connector but I split them. This one splits to 3 solid red wires. Also, all other posts on the starter relay read resistance as well. It’s 18degrees our today. Fml

This is actually how I started this. With less direction and record keeping, obviously. Will get back with results. Thanks again everyone

I didn’t have the batter connected when I messed with the ign switch, but even if it’s completely unplugged the ign system still is energized when battery is connected

I went back through the ignition switch. And cylinder. Both have been replaced within the month. Have the lock cylinder all the way off and the switch all the way in the same direction. Popped the lever hook in the switch, made sure the lever arm is taught and tightened down the bolts and hibeam assembly on top. All tight and lined up. It just screams electrical to me. As soon as the pos terminal is connected I’ve got power to all relays and ignition. The only thing the lock cylinder changes is the radio and cigarette lighter power supply at this point

I’ve been wondering if my lock cylinder connection to the arm that interacts with the ign switch might be faulty. It just seems like more of an electro issue than mechanical at this point

Did the wiggle with ign switch unplugged and also plugged in. No change. Infinite resistance. Followed yellow down to Passenger side headlight. Might need to check the long run in front of radiator