Ωhm

Try another pump nozzle.

Kinked or plugged.

Don't filler neck have two (2) tubes going to the tank. One being a vent, the other for fuel fill.

Welcome to the Forum. You'd have paid more if that grille was right. Got lucky.

Or did the ECU come to life.

Looking back at the three pressure measurements at idle, manifold vacuum is 15.8"hg. Seems low (normal being 18"hg). Low reading can indicate tight engine/friction. If vacuum gauge is reading same value as REM (engine vacuum), as it should, then engine has low vacuum (call for more fuel). If they don't match maybe MAP sensor is incorrect, causing extra fuel (INJ PW=5.8mS). I think engine vacuum value is calculated (BARO-MAP). What I'm try to say is maybe suspect MAP.

All REM values look good for OPEN LOOP condition. If O2S is telling the truth, then raw fuel/oil fumes are coming from somewhere, otherwise I'd suspect the ECU.

Do a search for "Radiator hose bung".

Go easy on yourself. When it comes to being an idiot, I often find myself over-qualified.

I wonder if that's the Engine Compartment Lamp connector. Regardless of what it is, get it out of there. Does problem still exist?

Photo of this (ICM) and RED wire, please. We need all eyes to see this.

Don't understand this statement.^^^^

Do these color codes line up? C213_A=YEL C213_B=BLK C213_C=GRN W/TR -------------------------------- C214_B=YEL

Nice REM you got there. O2S HEATER must work properly. Measure it for B+, ground and OPEN element on the O2S. Back to the vacuum hose going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Fuel Rail pressure at idle can read good both with and without the vacuum hose. But raw fuel can still leak by the FPR diaphram. Check the vacuum hose for raw fuel. Couple of REM questions. OPEN LOOP should set Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT)=128. Do you have the same value for Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT)? What is the INJ PW time (mS)? Hopefully the new O2S will solve all of these problems.

I don't understand this delay. Seems to me, engine is SHUT OFF when both of those lamps lit. That's what they do with KEY ON, ENGINE OFF, ENGINE STUMBLE maybe.

Good call on NOT listening to me. I learned something today.

1.2k

No Engineering TB have extra things for instrumentation stuff. Used for development and design. Just a guess.

My bet, its a engineering TB. Good time for a cruiser tip. RENIX THROTTLE BODY BUTTERFLY ADJUSTMENT

What we got, IGN SW (I1) YEL shorted to B+ Hot at all times Fuse Links. Separated Fuse Links and found one with continuity between the two (2) circuits. But this Fuse Link (GRN) has three (3) RED's coming off it and we believe it to be Fuse_Link_H (FL_H). FL_H feeds Engine Compartment Lamp (Engine Harness), Fog Lamp Relay (Engine Harness and Front Lighting Harness)and a busbar on the Fuse Box (Engine Harness and IP Harness). See if you can inspect RED wire for Engine Compartment Lamp for short to YEL. If you can trace the whole thing and prove it good, no need to cut it. Disconnect Front Light Harness (C102). Check if you still have continuity between D2_4 and suspect FL_H. If continuity still exist, can you trace and inspect RED/YEL from suspect FL_H to C102 for RED/YEL short, otherwise, we can eliminate the IP Harness to help determine next steps.

Manuals have been known to get clutch stuff stuck to the tip of the CPS. There's a magnet there. Test for voltage (AC) first.

Thanks for the follow-up. RED/WHT???????

Trying to figure out way to determine which of the three (3) RED wires are the problem without cutting them. Remember I told you to stop cutting the wires, I might be eating (crow) my words now.

Here's the only information I can find on the Fog Lamp Relay location. Schematic shows Front Lighting Harness.

Here's another view of Fusible Link H. Engine Lamp=Engine Compartment Lamp.