Ωhm

You're looking for 0.828vdc. Isn't 0.718vdc pass that point.

Yeah that looks like it.

In the fuse panel, under the dash, drivers side.

Check the TRANS fuse (7.5A).

Your persistence has paid off. Enjoy the ride.

Page 86. Engine block ground G104.

Isn't it for checking centrifugal weights or the vacuum advance canister on the distributor at higher RPM's? Just dial timing light back to zero and read advance off the dial.

Hold on, your correct, I got my mind right now. Thanks

When timing is advanced that means more degrees BTDC.

Taken from the 88 Electrical Manual.

Myself, I'm not a big fan of cutting off one or both of those tabs. A long, long time ago, faulty distributors (rotor tip to distributor gear error) existed and that actually made it to production. Once that was discovered, all of them units were purged from the parts shelf and distributors were replaced on the dealership lot or on sold vehicles as they came in with certain complaints. Complaint being poor idle (weak spark) or crossfire at higher RPM's (max advance). You were either one tooth off one way or the other since rotor tip would never line up with #1 tower correctly.

That's the trailing edge. Did you cut one of the lock down tabs on the distributor?

Now I'm really mixed up. Can someone help me?

Maybe I'm all mixed up with all the photos, but could that be ATDC? Put a directional arrow on the pulley face.

When things change, its called the new normal. I'm sure you've done it before.

If your clamp on amp tester is on the battery cable (RED 4 gauge) to the starter you will read starter motor current during CRANK. If clamp on amp tester is at the starter relay (RED 8 gauge) you will read current through the fusible links, including starter hold in windings during KEY ON, CRANK, ENGINE RUNNING.

Yes. To the Charcoal canister. I'd fix it. Fuel tank vents through the canister.

If I understand this right, wouldn't that just show battery voltage during CRANK since all voltage is being drop across the starter circuit.

Next would be a starter draw test (Amps), but that may show good even with a bad starter. IDK the spec.

I left an untested gap (starter motor case to engine block ground). Connect DVOM between battery negative post and starter motor case. Looking for 0vdc.

Check battery terminals. Clean terminals, contact at starter solenoid and contact at engine block. Take voltage drop test across each battery cable. Use the battery post for each test. Connect DVOM between battery positive post and contact at the starter solenoid. Looking for 0vdc. Connect DVOM between battery negative post and contact at the engine block ground. Looking for 0vdc.

Yeah, that's better then what I could dream up.

I've only found the following so far: C109_A: EGR control C109_D: B+ Latch Relay

_mj1988electricalmanual_1.pdf Fog lights on page 66.

Downloads worked fine by me. Thanks