LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

This is typical of the MJ for the simple fact that the fuel tank as well as the most use (aka if you use your Jeep, you'll always have a driver) is on that side.

I'm running the Hesco Hi-Flow pump and am happy with the upgrade. I see a lot of benefits with going with a hi-flow unit; a lot of it being simply a better built pump than a factory replacement. Here is a link to my write-up; viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7695

They are the correct one's, we sell a decent amount of them. Here is the best photo I have of them installed. 2 of the holes fit under the swaybar mount. The other 3 holes are further back. You can use the other "braces" on the opposite side of the frame rail.

First thing I'd do is make sure your speedo gear on your TC is set correctly. There are different settings on it based on how many teeth your speedo gear has. You can "index" it by turning it to the correct location based on the teeth you have. Their are numbers on the side of it.

The Grand Cherokee (ZJ) had the Dana 44a model (alumn. center section) in the towing package equipped ZJ's up to '95. Also all the V8 equipped ZJ's also had the D44a. Maybe they are mistaking the ZJ for the XJ? As it seems nobody anymore knows the difference between a "normal" Cherokee and a "grand" Cherokee... :roll: If it's the D44a, they are junk and are only worth their weight in scrap alum.

I don't see adjustable's as a waste of money at 3" of lift. The majority of time people do not stay at 3" of lift and end up going higher down the road. So with a set of adjustable's your fine, you just adjust them to a longer length. With a fixed length arm you would than be required to purchase a new set of arms if you ever went higher. The price difference between a set of fix and a set of adjustable's is not much; spend the extra few bucks now to save you more $$$ later.

They are the same as an XJ Cherokee. Airflow and ARB both make one that will work on the MJ/XJ.

Don't know if it will help or not, but here are a few pics from my build showing a set of RE 4.5" (new) with SOA in the rear with 4wd leafs. I ended up swapping out the front coils to a 6.5" coil to make it sit leval and fit the 35's. Like I said, don't know if it will help as they are on sloped ground and I've trimmed the rear and put on TJ flares. The tires are a set of 31" rollers to just move it around. It was during the build so not close to being done but figured it may give you an idea at least... EDIT: Here is a better pic sitting on more level ground.

Here is the wiring diagram of the power/comfort switch setup on the AW4

Just do the cut and fold method. They are put together just like the XJ rear is. Just cut some relief cuts in them, and fold them over. You don't loose anything with the spot welds this way. Sorry I can't find a decent pic of how I did it on my MJ, but here are some pics of what I'm referring to shown on an XJ.

I run the RE HD trackbar/bracket as well as the brace on both my MJ and the wife's XJ. I've been happy with it and it's given me no problems to date yet. The only other one I'd consider is the Rock Krawler one. I run it on my XJ and it's super beefy (made from solid stock) and is quiet a bit cheaper than the RE unit. Only downfall is you can't run a brace like you can with the RE setup. RE setup shown on my MJ.

This may be of help with the serp. belt. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/serpbelt.html

Sorry not an MJ, and I don't have many next to the planes but I did manage to find this older pic of the wife's XJ. Just going along with the airport theme...

You will also need the Spicer flange to mount on the pinion of the 8.8" so your driveshaft u-joint will mount up.

Based on your build thread it looks like your using RE 4.5" coils in the front. You don't need to remove your flares to make 33's fit if you don't want to. Just trying to save you a bit of work, but they will fit if you just trim in the correct spots. We're running 33's on my wife's XJ with the RE 3.5" lift (so 1" lower than you are" and have not touched the flares besides cutting them even with the body lines. We cut the fronts even with the bumper line, than the rear we cut even with the body fold line. We than cut metal out (about 1.5") from that body line down to the rocker mount. We've retained the inner fender liner as well. Here are a few pics to show you with 33" Maxxis Bighorn's with the RE 3.5" Superflex lift.

MORE actually makes 2 different motor mounts for the XJ/MJ. One with rubber bushings and one with poly bushings. I'd HIGHLY recommend if you go with MORE to get the one's with the rubber bushings or you'll shake your brains out with the poly. We've installed a set of the Brown Dog mounts and I was very happy with the quality of them. Spend the extra on the BD one's to go with the rubber bushings as well; your brain will thank you. I think the cost on the rubber version is right at $100. Really the only benefit I can see with going with the MORE one's is that they are zinc coated whereas the BD one's are just painted. Is it worth the extra coin, probably not...

I wish you the best of luck at Haspin. I hate that place... Every time we go someone breaks something bad (and not cause of hard wheeling) and the mud is just way out of hand. Last time we were there we cought a 4dr JK Rubi on fire... Not to mention the inbreeding of quads running around everywhere... This was in January with "frozen" ground. This was probably the driest patch of mud as well.

Yes it will work with that exact setup. Here is a pic of our 3" MJ leafs with the shackle relocation kit on Mark's XJ.

The SYE does not matter if it's a 21 spline or 23 spline TC. The only thing a SYE effects is the OUTPUT shaft, not the input shaft. Yank it off and put it on your other TC and be done with it. The only thing that 99% of the SYE kits on the market do not have the connection for the vac system for the CAD axle. But you said that your original one is the electric one so it will not effect you at all.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/bumper_mount.pdf

The arm goes to the rear brake proportioning valve. It should be vertical and the arm on the valve should be horizontal. Chrysler jacked up the price on the speedo gears about 9-10 months ago. If you can find someone who's got them on the shelf and does not know about the price increase you may be able to get one for cheap, otherwise your going to pay the higher rate. They all come from Chrysler, so unless you can find someone who makes them (I don't know of any such company) your stuck paying the higher rate. Also their is a "short" shaft and a "long" shaft, make sure you get the correct one for your TC.

I've flat towed my MJ quite a bit. There is no need to disconnect the driveshafts if you setup your Jeep correctly. I guess it wouldn't hurt but I just do not see any need for it. You can't just take the back off unless you have SYE as it will loose fluid out of the TC housing. I won't debate this fact about disconnecting the d-shafts as it seems like everytime it gets brought up it ends up being a huge debate. I'll just leave it as I've NEVER disconnected the d-shafts and have probably lose to 2000 miles flat towing my MJ. DO NOT, and I repeat DO NOT connect a tow bar to the factory bumper. It will not hold up. I used a set of C4x4 tow hooks and made my bracketry mount off of them. It works well and has held up great. The C4x4 mounts tie back into the frame rails as well as have a side support brace. If it has a set of factory mounts you could probably do something similar. Here is a pic of my setup. Let me know if I can be of any further help. EDIT: Here is a better picture of how I have the mount setup. 2 bolts per side at the tow hooks, than 2 bolts in the center tied into the cross support with spacers to make it tight. We were just hooking it up, best advice I can give you is have the tow bar point down towards the tow vehicle so it won't push you around as much. An adjustable height hitch is a great investment with a towbar setup.

5" LCA - 16 5/8" UCA - 15 1/4" More info on other heights as well as w/control arm drop brackets can be found here; http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=43793&p=3&topicID=14987672