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This help? http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/t32 ... /?r=830316

No; perches are at different widths.

PM sent on a Dana 30 ARB

Eurbini (sp?) out of New York used to have them available.

C4x4 in my opinion has the best kit on the market. Includes the side brackets that most other kits don't and much thicker material than others as well. Worth every penny!

Correct; you will simply need to weld on new spring perches (photo below). If your using a XJ 8.25" the perches from the factory will be on top; thus if you keep is SUA (spring under axle) you won't even need to remove them, simply just weld on new perches in the correct location for the MJ leafs. The shock mounts can be re-used with your factory mounting plates. Just remember to purchase new u-bolts as well as you should never re-use the old bolts.

FSM available free here - http://greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

A few Jeep related one's from years past;

TC in (N) Tranny is (P) if auto or 1st gear if manual Pulling d-shaft is not necessary but certainly can't hurt anything. Have done it many times...

Guess I'll never win this battle... :headpop: Sorry Marcel but this is not true. It's been proven time and time again...

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html

Here is an interesting video... I know it's not a MJ, but it's a XJ. http://jeeptv.com/video_detail.php?mId=13845

I have one. D35 out of an MJ setup for spring under. 3.55 gears. $100. Located in IN (46750) Call me at the shop if your interested - 260.224.6098 -Adam

Pics/Directions here; http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8325

http://www.hickstotalperformance.com/gallery/gallery2.php?ID=4 And a few wheeling pics of it here; http://www.hickstotalperformance.com/gallery/gallery2.php?ID=47

I like Bob's Pioneer decal;

So if this is true than; 1) If you jack up the rear of your Jeep, put your TC in (N) you will NOT be able to turn your tires since the front tires are on the ground. Same would be true about lifting the front tires, TC in (N) and back tires on the ground. 2) Jeep doesn't know what they are talking about by putting what they do in their owners manual. I'm sure that 1000's of people whom have towed their Jeeps before all experienced major failure to their TC due to wrong directions in the owner's manual. :roll: I'd like to know how you are "testing" your theory? If you put your TC in (N) and simply roll your Jeep back and forth that proves nothing. Your D-shaft will spin simply because your tires are spinning.

First off the proper procedure for flat towing or using a tow dolly is; Transfer Case in (N). Transmission in (P) or in 1st gear. Unlock steering column. You do NOT put the tranny in (N). Per the owner's manual; I've both flat towed as well as used a dolly on several occasions without issues using the above procedure. Uhm, sorry Pat but I'm going to disagree here with this one.... I've disproved this before but it seems like nobody understands. I even went as far to make a couple video's disproving this, but it still seems like people don't understand... Here is the video I made back in 2008 to prove that the front and rear DO NOT lock together in Neutral on the NP231. http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5531 And http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5492

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... =13_28_106

Not the one your looking for; but GLXJ has a lot of them. http://greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

X2. Poly will shake your brain out....

Tubing size is only part of the equation. You need to factor in what type of material as well as wall thickness. Here is what we build our DIY MJ cages with; Mild Steel - 1-5/8" x .134" wall DOM - 1-3/4" x .120" wall Molly - 1-5/8" x .083" wall

I run CSF 3-Core (all metal) in all our XJ's and MJ's. They are a great upgrade!

It could be several things. I'd recommend downloading the AW4 manual from GLXJ. In it is the procedure for testing the AW4. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/AW4_manual.pdf

You can use them off of an XJ (upto 1996). They are available new as well. http://tinyurl.com/27nrtcu