LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

I run CSF 3-cores in all our jeeps and have been very happy with them.

I disagree with Marcel... I know it's an XJ (but hey the rear wheel openings are smaller on the XJ's); but I run 35's on 5" of lift on my XJ and 33's on 3.5" of lift on the wife's XJ. A lot goes into factor other than just lift height. Wheel width and backspacing play a major role as well. MY XJ on 35's w/5" lift Wife's XJ on 33's w/3.5" lift It's all in how you setup your suspension. Both of XJ's have a score of over 800 on a 30deg RTI ramp.

In the XJ's if it had a NP242 TC than it will have a non-CAD Dana 30 front axle. So it's very possible for that '89 to have what you state. The Dana 44 was offered in the XJ's from 1987-1989; so once again very possible that it was in that XJ. The u-joints will be the same on your d-shift and will bolt directly up to the D44 yoke. The D44 has a slightly larger "snout" (aka it's longer); so depending on what TC/Tranny you have you may have to worry about how far the yoke is in your TC output shaft (though I doubt that you'll have any issues from just going from the D35 to the D44). Buy new perches; they are cheap and will be longer to help prevent axle wrap. Many aftermarket companies offer them as well as the dealer with the factory Mopar option. You will want a 33 tooth gear with a 30" tire, or a 32 tooth gear with a 31" tire.

Why did you get a drop pitman arm? You should never have to use a drop pitman arm. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar (like your MJ), you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences. If you've ever talked to anyone who's running larger tires and had a frame failure to the steering box mounting area, they'll be the first to tell you that you don't want to do anything to put more stress on the steering box...

There is no need to cut anything. Simply un-hook the connector and jump the pins that I posted above. If he did away with the AW4 he won't have the NSS on the tranny anyways, but he will still have the harness/connector that I posted a picture of...

Just know that you'll loose your reverse lights and your AW4 (if equipped) "may" act a little weird.

Yes no problem. I fit (5) 37" tires in my SWB about 3 weeks ago.

Front or Rear flares? Any 97+ XJ flares will "bolt" upto your front fenders. On the rear you have less options as the MJ rear fender well opening is larger than the XJ is.

What type of Grand Cherokee? ZJ Coils from a V8 equipped model will give 1-1.5" lift. ZJ Coils from a non-V8 equipped model will give you no lift. WJ Coils will not fit into the XJ/MJ as the coil diameter is wrong. WK Coils will not fit into the XJ/MJ as the coil diameter is also wrong. SOA in the rear will net anywhere from 5-7" of lift based on the condition and type (2wd/4wd) of factory leafs it came with. Your going to want a 6.5" coil in the front to make it look correct. WJ control arms are no longer than your factory arms currently are.

Short Bed 2wd - 113.1" 4wd - 112.9" Long Bed 2wd - 119.6" 4wd - 119.4"

TNT (Treks Offroad) Truss @ $160;

I personally wouldn't run anything over 1.75" coil spacers. Anything more than that the coil does not fit into the upper coil bucket enough for my liking and can easily fall (pop) out with any suspension articulation. Just my penny and a half worth....

I cut mine at the body line. Than used a piece of that door edge guard on each side to keep the sharp edge at bay.

"Digital Camo" on a TJ

I just did them this past weekend on the wife's D44 in her XJ. Local auto supply store had the best price on them after I figured in shipping from getting them online. Part number for the Timken's are; Seal - 9912S Bearing - SET10

I'm running Quickor swaybars. A bit of the history behind Quickor. Quickor Eng. was founded by Glenn Risburger back in the early 80's in Canada (company registered in 1972). They started off making performance swaybar kits for track cars. Glen than sold Quickor to Warn Ind. and went to work for their truck division in 1986. Glenn and Quickor parted company in mid 1990. Warn kept the ground effects and swaybar portion of the company and the bushing side was sold to Marcore of Canada. Warn than basically ran Quickor into the dump and Quickor filled bankruptcy in the late 1990's and the company today no longer exist. Why the history lesson? Well Quickor worked with the factory Mopar Jeep team in the mid 80's and early 90's on the MJ racing teams. The Quickor bar for the Jeep XJ/MJ's was designed directly for the MJ race team, tested by them and than put on the market for the general consumer. Front swaybar; Rear swaybar; On a side note; best mod I've ever made to a street driven Jeep! We purchased all the remaining stock of Quickor Jeep swaybars about a year and a half ago and they sold rather quickly. To my knowledge their is no Quickor XJ/MJ swaybars available anywhere anymore; you'd have to pickup a used one (good luck finding one). EDIT: Quickor is back in business! They are now located in Portland, OR. I've been in contact with them and they currently have no interest in producing swaybars for the Jeep again. Addco does make a front and rear swaybar for the Jeep MJ. Front bar is 516, rear bar is 468.

Plus lift blocks will lower the rear of a MJ; not raise it...

I run 35" tires on my MJ with 6.5" of lift and have trimmed VERY little on the front and have no issues. Uptravel is not everything... bumpstop it correctly and it will force the other side down. Anyone who tells you that 6.5" of lift is not enough for 35's does not have their suspension setup correctly. Here is a pic of the area's I've trimmed on the front. I have not touched the area's that the flare is still attached. The rear I did trim a bit and I'm running TJ flares. I did this more for getting rid of the rust issues than I did for tire clearance. It stuffs the 35's without issues in the front. I also run 35's on my XJ with only 5" of lift and very minimal trimming (have not trimmed higher than the body line on the flare area). I have no issues stuffing them either while offroad. I score over an 800 on the RTI ramp (30deg).

Yes you can. You can get straps for this and just drill out the holes.

Surco does; 50" x 30" basket. Part number SJ5030. You will also need a set of XJ gutter mounts to make it fit. Part number GM100. It's actually made for a Wrangler, but will fit.

Don, Thats the one! Thank you so very much. Local AutoZone was $10 more than RockAuto, but I should have it by 10AM in the morning so it ended up being cheaper in the long run. Just for future reference of anyone looking for one. AutoZone calls it a Duralast Part and the # is 583.

That is probably what I will end up doing so I can get her XJ back on the road quickly. Only negative I have with doing that is that if/when I ever had to go back and do any work I'll have no clue what terminal goes where. I guess if the new switch has any markings on each terminal I can try to label them... Oh the combination's possible with 9 terminals. I could see myself shooting myself for doing that...

Here is a photo of the melted connector.