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The ZJ was offered with a V8 from 1993–1998

Yes the shaft can be swapped over. However you can often find a used NP231 in the 23 spline flavor for around $75 (at least in my area). I've yet to been able to find just a 23 spline shaft for less than that. Not to mention the work associated with swapping it in. See if you can find a 23 spline NP231 used and than just sell your 21 spline (or make a doubler out of it).

I've been very happy with no issues at all with my Hesco pump. This is the first I've heard of someone saying they have not had good luck with them...

I just moved the bracket for the hard to soft line down to mount on the prop. valve bracket. it got me the extra length I needed with the stock line. When I did away with the rear prop. valve during the axle swap I used a '95 Dakota line. Only reason was that I destroyed the factory line trying to get it apart and the Dakota line was cheaper (and longer) than getting a factory replacement.

If my memory serves me correctly it's the BLUE line that controls the switch/indicator.

You were told wrong.

As far as an "aftermarket" coil I'd probably recommend the OME. Here are some spring rates to consider. OEM XJ/MJ Coil - 145 Old Man Emu 930 XJ Coil (aprox 2") - 160 I don't think I have an official number on the XJ UpCountry coils, but I belive they are right at the 160lb mark as well. I'm pretty sure I have a set of the 930 coils laying around new in box if your interested. Personally I'd go with an OME shock over the 5100's. Others may disagree but I feel the OME shock gives a much better ride than the 5100's do.

A D35 actually has a larger diameter shaft than a 27 spline 8.25" shaft. Both are 27 spline. 8.25" all had c-clip axles. I'd prefer a non c-clip axle myself... 8.25" also does not use shims (threaded collar) that you have to have a special tool (or make one yourself) to adjust. Thus making the job of gear changes and/or locker installs more difficult. Personally I'd take a early D35 (non c-clip) axle over a 27 spline 8.25" anyday. Now the 29 spline 8.25" on the other hand is a good upgrade.

And he's probably less than 30 miles from me. :D I have a few more pics in my build thread HERE if you want to see any further angles.

31 x 10.5 on those rims.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

I got a Dewalt on Tooliday.com for $50 new in box minus battery. Bought a battery from them (Tool King) for another $50 and I had less than $100 in it. They run a daily deal, and often have battery powered impacts on there for cheap (almost weekly you'll find one). They have a Milwaukee one today for $50 that retails for $265. You need to buy a battery and charger but those can often be found on eBay for cheap. http://auto.tooliday.com

Just cause the information is available I'll post it; 4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm - used 87-90 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO" (High Output) - 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm - used in 91-92 The TQ numbers are the same but I feel like the Renix puts the TQ down in a better curve than the HO does....

Make sure you count the output splines on the AW4 as they came in a 21 and a 23 spline version. The change was made around mid 1990. You can bolt up the 23 spline but you'll than need a 23 spline TC as well if you have 4wd.

Being that you have an '86 fitting a 4.0L is not going to be "bolt-in". There are issues with firewall clearance...

Rear disc brake setup can fairly easily be adapted to other axles (D44 and Chrysler 8.25").

Spot welds typically leave an "indentation" due to the nature of how a spot weld is done (clamping pressure). Typically the best way to find them is to run course sandpaper over welded flange areas a few times. This will remove rust and/or paint along the flanged areas but will leave traces of paint and/or rust within the low areas. These low areas are the spot welds. If your lazy or that is taking to long you can run a wire brush over the welded area a few times. This will yield similar results as using sandpaper. The rust and/or paint along the flanged areas will remain and traces of rust and/or paint will remain within the low areas, or spot weld areas.

Best bang for the buck on the market today is the Hobart Handler 140 (in my opinion).

I went way overboard with the conversion buying the best (aka most expensive) parts on the market at the time. You can do the conversion for a lot cheaper. Really the only "needed" parts would be the new radiator, the new heater valve (included part number in original post), and a few misc hoses to go to the heater valve and heater core. I honestly do not see why someone would convert to an open system and still use the pressure bottle. It seems like that totally defeats the purpose of doing the conversion. Just buy the $30 heater valve and get a few hoses...

1) I have done the conversion on several XJ's and MJ's and have never had an issue with the header panel. I use the CSF radiators and have never had a clearance issue to date yet. 2) I picked up a universal metal catch can from Summit. I just have it sitting off to the side (pass side) mounted with the hose running into it.

89-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints, all 95+ have 5-297x u-joints, all others have 5-260x u-joints. Also the D30 LP used in 00-01 XJ's have the 5-297x u-joints.

Nitro-Gear also makes 4.88 for the 8.25" http://www.nitro-gear.com/news/2008/8/2 ... r-825.html

They are not a direct bolt on for a D44. You need to make a spacer (axle retainer) as the ZJ one is not thick enough. You'll also need to enlarge the center hole of the backing plate a bit as well for the D44. As far as bolt-on kits available on the market; Crown as well as TeraFlex both make kits now that include everything needed and that will simply just bolt-on.

The upper factory snubber hits the top of the hockey puck. It may hit the bolt head but it really doesn't matter. I find it easier to get a wrench in between the coils than I do a socket/rachet. If you recessed the bolt into the puck your going to have to use a socket to tighten things down as a wrench won't be able to hold the bolt head.

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