LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

If that is true than I find this info (directly from Jeep) interesting... But I also find it interesting that they say the MJ was built in '84 and '85 as well... :wavey: I can however confirm that my SWB '88 is only the 13.5 gallon one. So I'd venture to say that a good conversion for the pre '88 SWB MJ's would be an '89+ SWB tank.

You do know you can slide the pucks in one by one without removing the coils. It takes a bit of time/patience but less work than yanking them out. You can drill the holes from the under-side. Oh well, you got it done...

Part 1 - http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5881 Part 2 - http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5890

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/TPS.html

OME does not make a 4" coil for the XJ's/MJ's. They make a 2" coil, and if your use a ZJ 2" coil you can get 3" of lift. But a 4" coil was NEVER made by OME for the XJ/MJ. RR stacks coil spacers on top of new springs to get that amount of lift; stupid if you ask me...

They were on Randy's XJ. And yes, RE did warranty it.

I dunno what you guys are talking about.... :popcorn: Unfortunately that was only the beginning of the damage that day. Though it's not the MJ so...

:hmm:

Mine (above) was painted outside. Just pick a warm day, do a panel at a time, and take your time.

It's Rust-Oleum Satin; http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp ... id=7732830

As far as the paint goes I pretty much did everything "WRONG" to get the best results. I've done my fair share of paint jobs on other vehicles, but this is the 1st time I did it via rattlecan. Here are some tips: 1) Cover any rust/bare metal with primer. 2) Do not paint w/primer over everything. The factory paint job holds just fine. 3) Sand it down smooth with a mid-grade sandpaper. Sand everything that you can to scuff it up as the paint will adhere better. 4) Try to do it in 1 coat. I got better results doing 1 thick coat than I did trying to do 2-3 coats. It takes some time to do it with 1 coat, but the end results look a TON better and it does not look like it's been rattle canned. 5) Do it in sections. It helps since your doing it in 1 coat to not try to do it all at once. Pic a panel and paint it. 6) Use a non-gloss and non-flat paint. I used a Satin and it turned out very well. Flat is hard to get a good finish with, and gloss shows to much error and makes it look like a rattle can job. Once again use a Satin for best results. 7) DO NOT WET-SAND AN ALREADY PAINTED PANEL. It looks like crap if you do. 8) DO NOT USE A CLEAR COAT. Like I said, if you know anything about painting you'll tell me I'm crazy. This is based on my experience and anyone who's seen the paint job in person can attest to how good it looks for $30 worth of spray paint. I'm going on the end of year 2 and it still looks great! Results...

Yes all the 20's in the MJ's were a 1 piece shaft. That is the specific reason that they are a desirable axle as compared to the CJ or FSJ 20's. A solid 1 piece shaft conversion kit is expensive, so it's a plus that the axle already has it. Plus many (including myself) say that it's a stronger axle than the D44 is. The non MJ AMC20's are an OK axle, they just take alot of work to resolve some of the issues with heavy wheeling. The MJ version is essentially the solution to those problems, thus not taking much work to make a killer axle...

Good find Wade! Looks like when I have some free time I'll put together a list for the D30/D35/D44 in the XJ and the MJ to make it easier to find the info. Dana put the tag on the covers, but we all know that most of the time they are missing or hard to read due to rust (the rust one is the common problem here in the Midwest). Being able to decode the stamps on the housing make it much easier (in my opinion).

Sounds good, the more info we can put together like this the better...

The gear ratio for the rear end is also stamped on the passengers side axle tube. I have yet to get my hands on a MJ/XJ D44 with 4.10's in it, so I do not have those numbers (nor do I know if they were even offered from the factory that way). MJ: 3.07 Gear Ratio = 605325-12 3.54 Gear Ratio = 605325-10 XJ: 3.07 Gear Ratio = 605342-1 3.54 Gear Ratio = 605342-3 Hope it helps for future reference.

You've got that backwards. The early one's were the lower splined one's.. Plus they were never offered in 27, it's 23 and 21. So I'm assuming the "7" was meant to be a "1".

Look for one out of an XJ or a TJ, as they will bolt right in. Mid-Late '90's are better as they have the larger u-joints and are a 1 peice shaft. Most 4cyl manual's will have the 4.10's. Edit: D60's won't "bolt-in". You can make anything fit though if they are the correct side drop with a little bit of time and $$$...

Here is a pic of said MJ. I'll take a better look at the rear leafs when I get a chance. It's hard to tell since it's a 2WD and the front fenders are off. Watchamakalit's less than a mile from it, maybe he can stop by and take a look at them since I know he wants the MJ anyways. :smart: He's now 9 months old, and has RSV. Looks like we're gonna be here for a bit... (YUCK!) At least they have wi-fi to help pass some time...

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=564

Hate to say this, but I do not believe this to be 100% true. I've recently picked up an '86 LWB 2WD that had the AMC20 (the reason I bought it), and I'm 95% sure it's not the Metric Ton package on it. I'm at the hospital with my son right now, so I'll try to get pics when we're back home.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. 2. Disconnect hoses from heater core. 3. If equipped with A/C, remove evaporator/blower housing as follows: a. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect hoses from expansion valve. b. Disconnect electrical connector and vent tube from blower motor. c. Remove console, if equipped. d. Remove lower instrument panel attaching screws, then the lower panel. e. Disconnect electrical connections from A/C relay, blower motor resistors and A/C thermostat. f. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum motor. g. Cut evaporator/blower housing to heater core housing retaining strap, then disconnect heater control cable. h. Pry retaining clip from rear of blower housing flange, then remove the three retaining screws. i. Working from engine compartment, remove evaporator/blower housing attaching nuts, then the evaporator drain tube, Figure 1. j. Remove right kick panel, then the instrument panel support bolt. k. Pull right side of dash outward, then rotate housing downward and towards rear of vehicle until studs clear dash panel. Remove housing from vehicle. 4. Remove heater core to housing retaining screws, then the heater core, Figure 2. 5. Reverse procedure to install. Figure 1 Figure 2

I run/ran them on my XJ and MJ. I've than converted them to true beadlocks though... Here are a few pics. On my XJ... On my MJ... Here's a pic of them on my wife's XJ converted to real beadlocks. I've had an issue with leaking so I'm gonna throw some anti-conti rings in with them to solve that issue. If you want more pics I've got tons, just let me know.

The factory spring plate I flipped and put it "inside" the shock mount plate for added strength, than yes used 4 bolts/washer/locking nuts on the top side with the new spring plate in the kit. This also helps keep the "lip" on the shock mount plate from really being a lip as the factory spring plate has a big "u-bend" for lack of better terms in it. So I guess it goes like this; Motion Spring Plate Motion SOA Spring Perch Axle Tube Factory Spring Perch (welded to axle) Factory Shock Mount Plate Factory Spring Plate It's snowy out, but if you want/need more pics Marcel shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to snap a few for ya. Edit: Found an old pic when I first set it up. Only thing you can't see if the factory spring plate under the factory shock mount plate.

I'm running Motion's bolt-on SOA kit. I just kept the shock mount plate on the bottom, ran 4 bolts up threw it, and used the new top plate provided in the kit. Works well and like you said, it's not much clearance loss and I'm able to run a longer travel shock that way. Everything was bolt-on and I didn't modify anything.

I know it's not a single round tube, but here is a pic of Bob's rear bumper with dual tubes.