LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Can't say it's noticeable if it has. It's sat outside for the last 8+ months with no shade and still looks about as good as the day after I finished painting it. Still holding up great, even after several trail runs and rubbing the body against rocks etc.

I'm not going to defend the 2.8L at all, but logic to me would say that it's easier/cheaper to probably fix the root of the problem with the cooling system than it would be to do a engine swap. Any motor swap you do will require more than just putting the motor in. You'll need to tackle the wiring harness as well as probably the tranny/tc. Than you'll most likely need a different rear d-shaft based on what motor/tranny combo you have.

You can go this route without having to tear anything apart... Here is my write-up on it. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8559

Dangit CW! I wish I would of seen this prior to you trying the clear it. Everyone asks me about my paint and what I thought about trying to clear it. I've NEVER had luck with the clear-in-a-can stuff. I always either get the cracking or the fogging as a result. Everyone who talks to me about the paint job on the MJ I always tell them to NOT even try to clear it unless your shooting it with real gun and are using a real clear with the retrarder. I didn't even attempt to do it on my MJ as I knew the results would be poor. Anyways, glad you are happy with the end results. :D

Sounds to me it's the tank leaking at the bottom where the tank hits the pump (the seal). They are prone to leaking due to a combo of poor design and plastic tanks. I've replaced the seal in them before, as the parts to change everything out is only around $20. However I will say it was the biggest pain the the butt job I've ever done and it lasted about 8 months and than I was in the same boat again. My recommendation is to buy a new one, or grab one for cheap from the junkyard. It's much easier to just swap one out that you know is good than to try to deal with replacing the seal.

You really expected to get good directions and support from Rusty's? Call him up and try to get him to tell you what everything is. Why do you have coil spacers? Can't they even send the correct length coils for the lift? Ok well since I know he won't help, here you go... Steering Stabilizer Brake Line Drop Brackets (stupid to even use them, get real longer lines) Swaybar Drop Brackets (stupid to even use them, get longer end links and/or disco's) Rear Axle Shock Mounts -Lead_"I've never had a good experience with Rusty's"_Follow

I will agree that it helps a lot on the closed-loop system to have a bleed hole in the t-stat itself. I remember after I installed the new motor in my XJ and still had the closed loop system how I had a MAJOR overheating issue. I was down right pi$$ed and after several phone calls with the guys at Golen we determined I still had air in the system. They recommended I get a factory OEM t-stat (yeah they are like 5x more expensive, they don't call them the "stealer" for nothing!). They told me that the factory t-stat for a Renix era XJ/MJ had a little hole in it with a ball pinched around some metal. So I went to several local auto stores asking about t-stats and opening up several dozen boxes trying to find an alternative (cheaper) option than the $50 dealer t-stat. After arguing with one local auto parts store about the need to have a hole in the t-stat I broke down and went to the dealer. Almost instantly my overheating issue was gone with the new t-stat that had the hole in it. So I called up Golen, apologized and thanked them for the tip. I never had a temp issue since. So I agree, if you can't find a t-stat with the fancy do-hicky with the hole/ball, drill a small hole in it to let air escape and it'll help bleed the system 10 fold. I will also plug the open-loop conversion at this time, as I see it only fit to do so. :D One of my major gripes with the older closed loop system was bleeding the air out of it so it will effectively cool. I can't count (even with my shoes/socks off) how many times I've been on the trails wheeling and someone has an overheating issue. They blow the pressure bottle (thus letting air into the system); we sit and jimmy-rig something up to get them back to camp, and no matter what we do, we can't get air out of the system and they are left riding with someone else the rest of the day. It seems like EVERY trip I'm on someone with the closed loop system has issues. Bleeding the system on the trail sucks, heck bleeding the system back at camp sucks. Sitting waiting on someone try to bleed the air out of the system on the trail sucks even more when my rig's running fine but I've gotta wait... I've converted ALL my Jeeps to the open system now and never looked back. I've never had an issue since, and quite frankly I think it cools better. I'll leave that argument for another time/place. But I'll tell you that the first time you have an issue not at home (either on the trail, or along the side of the road), you'll wish you would of spent the time/money converting it. OK I'll step off my soap-box now. :roll: 8)

I HIGHLY recommend these: CLICK ME Here is my write-up on them. http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... D=15250394

Maxxis Bighorn's. :D Wife runs them on her daily driven XJ, I run them on my sometimes driven XJ as well as my trail-only MJ. Best all around tire I've ever ran (and I've ran just about them all). Good deal on them here.

As for converting to LED's... When I did mine on my XJ this is what I had to do. You need to buy a trailer wiring harness. I used THIS ONE since it was plug and play in my XJ. But whatever you do, you need to wire in a trailer wiring harness (with the box) into your factory wiring. You'll than wire your lights off of that box. This will convert the factory stop & turn lights into one stop/turn combo. If you used LED's you will also need to convert your flasher to an electric one. The LED's don't draw enough amps to make the mechanical one work. I got mine at AutoZone in the self help section. I used part number EL12 (2 prong). Pull yours first as some years did use a 3 prong instead of the 2 prong one's. It's located under the dash by your feet on the drivers side.

This is true.

No offense to you if you run them but they are probably the worst designed longarm kit on the market for the XJ/MJ. If your going to run a y-link setup the upper control arms need to be able to move so during the suspension cycle you maintain a good pinion angle. The mounts look questionable as well. And lastly, the bend in the arms on those is the wrong way. You want high clearance, not low clearance. I've seen photo's of the kit mounted up and the clearance issues is something to be desired.

I've got a set of Recaro's out of my BMW I'll sell ya for cheap... I've actually got a couple sets, one of them is even heated... 8)

Ask Wade (89eliminator) how long it takes Rusty's to ship stuff... :popcorn:

I don't think I've used the Satin Black before. I think I always use Semi-Flat for the hood vents/trim pieces. Maybe I'm wrong, I'd have to double check. But my memory says I use the Semi-Flat instead as it matches closer to the factory black. I just use it for trim pieces so I don't' know what it would look like covering a larger area. EDIT: Yes I used Semi-Flat, this is the largest area I've painted with that color. Can't give much feedback as to what it would look like on the entire Jeep...

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/serpbelt.html

Yeah figured I'd have to fight you AND Rebecca off. Knowing her though she'll somehow convince me it makes good on her busted rockers and end up getting it. :roll:

How? Both are 2.62" tubes and both have 1.18" diameter shafts inside those tubes.

Great thing about GM is that just about anything will bolt up to anything. Our Jeeps don't quite seem to work that way. An AX4/5 may interchange with a 700R4 because they were not only used behind the 2.5, but also the GM 2.8V6. The 4.0 is completely different and will probably need some sort of adapter, assuming someone actually makes one. Also, are you going to keep the NP231 (assuming you have a 231), or move to a 241 that was ment to be bolted to a 700r4? The 241 is quite a bit larger (I compared the one in my Suburban side by side with the 231 in my MJ) and may not fit the tunnel. But you may need an adapter to bolt a 231 to a 700r4. I've got the 700r4 to the 4.0L block covered, it's the tunnel I'm concerned about. I just really do NOT want to cut to get the clearance needed. I will be running a clocked 231 with a Box-4-Rocks setup. If I end up not going that route It'll be an Atlas. TC doesn't matter as I can just clock it to get it to fit if needed. A 242 will never be in any of my rigs, they are weak and don't offer any aftermarket support. Not to mention the only SYE available for them is a hack-n-tap.

Taken from a previous post, PM me if you have any more questions.

Why does your Dad have any say in what you drive? If you pay for it, you pay for insurance, and all cost associated with it what does it matter what your Dad says? Your 20, not 16...

Is that so? I used less than 10 cans to do the entire thing and ask anyone's who's seen my MJ how professional it looks.

I'm in the same boat (somewhat). I'm now on my 4th blown AW4 and have a built 700r4 sitting here. However I haven't talked with anyone who's actually used one behind the 4.0L before in the XJ/MJ platform. If you do go that route, please let me know as I'm curious if it will fit the tunnel. I do NOT want to cut any metal to get it to fit.

New D30 Locker from Motion. Oh and I also bought a new welder yesterday as well.

Why do you need offroad gear if you never offroad? Sorry had to give ya a hard time... being you've missed 3 trips now when every time you said you'd "no way I'm going to miss them" ;)