LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

Doesn't the header panel bolt to the fenders in the top corner? Thus wouldn't it make sense to put the new fenders on first? Or are the 2500 fenders/header panel different?

I use this. :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7704

Quoted for truth. Worth the extra money!

Guys just remember that the longer the shackle you run the greater the chance of axle wrap and the faster your leafs will start to sag (or break). Also running a shackle that long in direct relation to axle wrap will cause u-joints in the d-shaft to wear much faster. It may be cheaper now to go that route, but in the long run it may end up costing you more money due to the negative side effects of running a shackle that long.

Yes they should work fine.

Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear - used 86-92 (all axles are vacuum disconnect, and have 5-260x u-joints)

The NSS? http://jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

X2. Especially if you have the factory rad. with the plastic end tanks. They are known to fail at the petcock when someone tries to use it. Save yourself a headache of having a busted rad. and just pull the lower hose.

No it's not a direct swap. -Lead_"been threw my fair share of AW4's"_Follow

With spacers you just need to make sure that they are hub-centric and that your rims than match your spacers. If your spacer is not hub-centric they make centering rings out of plastic that you put between the spacer and the rim to center them. Not the best thing but a lot better than just bolting it up. Porsche has been using spacers from the factory for years. I've ran spacers on my BMW racecars for years without issues. Just make sure you get hub-centric ones though and you won't run into any issues. Another option is to run 2 different offset rims (front vs. back). With for instance the Crager Soft 8's they are available in the same size in 2 different offsets. Some guys do this and your able to get very close to the same track width.

That would be my guess if you've installed the axle seals correctly and they are that new; being that it's both sides.

Since we're on the topic I'll copy/paste info I posted about the 8.8" in a recent thread on GLXJ comparing the 8.8" to the D44. The Ford 8.8" has 1.31" 31 spline axle shafts. It however is a C-Clip shaft. which means that the axle shaft is held in place by c-clips at the differential, not by an outer axle flange. If your axle shaft breaks, your wheel will come off. It does have a larger 3.25" tube, however it does neck down to 2.75" just before they enter the brake housings. Rather than welding the tubes on the 8.8 into the diff housing, the tubes are just held in with pressed-in plugs. These plugs tend to stop doing their job under severe stress. The ring gear is larger in the 8.8", however the carrier is known to be a piece of crap and fail. The biggest advantage the 8.8" has is that it has disc brakes from the factory. The width of the 8.8" is 1" shorter, so to be the correct WMS you'll need to run 1/2" spacers on each side in the rear. Also, the 8.8" is NOT a bolt in application for the XJ/MJ, so you will need to purchase a 8.8" install kit that consist of new spring perches that need to be welded onto the tubes. Some argue that since the 8.8" is a semi-floating axle that the c-clips make a big difference. Some argue that they don't. A semi-floating rear axle is one in which the axle shaft does bear some of the vehicle's weight. So in addition to tortional loads, it is required to stand up to shear loads as well. My opinion is that C-clips do make a difference in axle strength. If the axle isn't a full floater, then the stress is spread out across the axle shaft. The axle shaft rides on the outter bearings at the axle tube end and the side gears. The axle shafts neck down at the c-clip and those can break. The other side of the argument is that the c-clips are located inboard of the splines the c-clip portion of the shaft is not exposed to much (if any) torsional or shear loads. Who's right? I don't know....

Here you go... http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=65

I run the 33 Bighorns on the wife's rig and the 35 Bighorns on both my XJ and my MJ and I LOVE them! :D

Just remember guys that if you have not replaced your speedo gear and are running larger tires and/or different gears your odom. is not calculating your mileage correctly.

I used to be a VW guy back in the day. Had a couple of bugs and a few squarebacks. I "Imported" a new old bug from Mexico even. Nobody would belive me that it was a 2000 when I was trying to sell it. Man do I miss my squareback though. That was a fun car.

Best bang for your buck is to bore out your TB. Next best bang for your buck in my opinion is to upgrade to a 00-01 XJ intake manifold. Next would be a better flowing exhaust system. Only cold air intake I would run (and we do on my wife's XJ) is the Rock-It parts intake as it moves the filter up and away from the exhaust manifold.

If building a very built motor for my XJ and dyno testing it with and without 4 different brands of TB spacers is experience... ... than yes I have 1st hand experience. ;)

Here is your pic. Interested to know what you think of the longarm setup. They don't have a very good reputation as being a quality product. Curious to what you think of the build quality? Not a huge fan of the design as the upper arm should be longer and mount further back to keep the axle correct during suspension cycles. The flex joint should be on the other side (poly/rubber should mount on body end). Do the mounts have any side support to them or do they just mount to the bottom of the frame rail? Non the less, interested to see another longarmed MJ!

Valves? There are additional valves that I didn't post in the photo's? Your photo's of your "valves" look no different than the photo of the valves I posted. It looks to me like I have the wrong AC pump on it (thanks stupid PO!).

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html Under the Transmission and Transfer Case section.

Throttle Body spacers are a waist of $$ and offer no gains; infact in most cases it decreases HP and mileage.

Not a whole lot of updates as I really haven't had the time to work on it much. I'm not sure how much trail use it will see this summer as we'll probably wheel one of the XJ's as we have a new baby (thus more room needed). I did get some new "bling" for it however. :D

The wife's been begging me to fix the AC in her XJ for several weeks now. I finally had some time to look at in and have some questions. For reference it is a 1993 XJ with the 4.0L HO motor. It seems that the PO had the hoses off the back of the AC pump. Upon further looking at it I have noticed why. The hoses won't go onto the back of the pump. The nuts on the hoses are way to big, and the inner part of the hose will not fit into the back of the pump. I looked at my '89 but the system is totally different. I unfortantly do not have another 91+ XJ/MJ to take a look at within the next few days. My question is this. Am I missing an "adapter" piece? Or is the pump itself wrong? The pump fits the bracket very well so I'm going to assume it's off of a 4.0L. Was there different pumps threwout the HO years? I know the Renix pumps have the hoses on the top, and the HO have the hoses on the rear. I'm stumped. Anyone have any insight? I'd like to get her AC working again as we have a newborn and not having AC in the hot/humid days makes even the short trims seem l_o_n_g. Here are some photo's showing the parts.

Rustoliem (sp?) Gave them 1 light coat and than a 2nd heavy coat and they've held up well even in the harsh winter's here.