LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

I'd say a good 95% of insurance companies will not cover the aftermarket parts value you put into your rigs. If anyone here is like me I'd got 1000's of dollars in aftermarket stuff on my rig. Not to mention the safety factor. What is something happened to someone else on the trail and they were unable to get out and the rig was on fire? I'd sure want an extinguisher on hand. Saying not to have one in your rig is ludicrous!

The only thing as far as the pump goes that runs it is the serp. belt. I'd check the fluid level first. Than I'd check the condition of the belt and how tight it is.

Nice score! :cheers:

I would of put a washer on each side of the bushing, but looks good non-the-less. Gonna tease us with shots of just the shackle or you gonna post pics of the newly lifted MJ? ;)

It's based on how many posts you have. Pete has it setup so there are parameters. For instance maybe 1-100 post says "aaaaa" and than 101-200 says "bbbb". At least thats how it's been several other forums I've been a part of...

Got my new rock rails from Motion today. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=67 These things are super beefy. They will be tied into the cage (more info on that to come soon ).

We ALL run drag links with adjusting sleeves. What's the difference? Last I checked a draglink was part of the steering and not put in major leverage situations like a trackbar is. The major leverage on the steering setup is the tie rod, not the draglink.

To get a DOT certificate takes a lot of money (yes a lot!). Many companies won't even bother with the DOT as it's so expensive and not worth their trouble. (same with TUV in Europe). It's easy to put "offroad only" on all there product material so they don't have any liability. Insurance is crazy anymore and anyone will sue anybody to make a buck. So by saying "offroad only" companies have no issues with any of this. I delt with this when I worked for Lingenfelter and we were trying to get our products 50 state legal; DOT and dealing with the stupid smog crap they have will leave a company broke. That does not mean however that all heim joints are not DOT safe. I know that some QA1 joints are DOT approved for instance. A quality heim will not wear out and become noisy. The static load ratings of a heim are crazy, your not going to find that out of a TRE. Honestly I'd feel safer on the street with a heim than a TRE anyday. If you call this "proven" than no thanks... TRE's only can bend so far, than they are put in a leverage situation and will break. You don't have this issue with heim joints. I've seen more issues with TRE's used on the end of trackbars than I've ever seen with heim joints. Actually I don't think I've ever seen a heim break like the above picture when used on a trackbar. How is a 1 piece unit that goes to either a heim or TRE not practical? The majority of the aftermarket trackbars out on the market today are build this way. TF is one of the only one's that I know that peices 2 parts together and uses the adjuster sleave. To each their own, but I don't agree. 8)

Why do we always pick the same weekend as GLJT? :nuts:

If you want your bumper fast don't go with the Ridgco one. I ordered a rear bumper for my XJ from Terry and after 9 months of waiting I finally got tired of the wait and canceled my order. Maybe he's gotten things done to less of a wait, but if he's still the way I think he is and willing to talk to ya on the phone for 2+ hours I know what it takes him so long to get bumpers done. 8) Great guy, even greater product, but don't expect to get your bumper in a timely fashion. If your willing to way I'd highly recommend his products. As far as the Detour's; Mark is a great guy to work with. For the $$ though I'd put it towards a full bumper and not a winch mount setup. The stock bumper won't' take much abuse and as difficult of a job as it is to cut the stock one's I think it would get old doing so to replace your bent up factory bumper. Just my penny and a half worth...

Show me a safe way to fit a 10 week old infant into the MJ with bucket seats and I may bring it.... :roll: I bet Bob will show up as well...

You'd think I'd remember as I just did the WP on the wife's XJ about a month ago... But I seem to remember that the pully itself can be put on "backwards" and it will sit very close as you have described. Any chance you put the pully on the wrong way, thus spacing it further in? Maybe I'm thinking of one of my cars though... but just a thought...

I've always drilled threw the plastic cover do-hicky thing-a-ma-bob. Run a few bolts threw that and attach them mount to them.

Between the door and the base of the seat. Easy access if you need it quickly and the space is useless anyways.

Their is a local guy who's into them BIG TIME. He's done several Northstar 24V conversions in them. They are quick. Their was an article on him in one of the big name mags about the conversions. I'll see if I can find it...

FYI, Motion's rear leafs are made by Alcan. Alcan is probably the best leaf manufacture known in the offroading community. Call up Alcan and ask them a price on their 4.5" MJ leafs and they'll quote you $500+. I had a set of 6.5" leafs made by Alcan and I paid over $600 for them (now on BlueXJ's rig).

Yes spring packs = leaf spring packs = new rear leaf spring = the suspension components for the rear. ;)

Shims won't do anything to lift, they simply correct your pinion angle. Do a search on Rusty's products on here before you drop the $$ on them. I've personally seen many of their products fail, including myself having 2 LCA's break at the welds. Here are some links with pics of failed Rusty's parts. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10337 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7345 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10335 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8813 http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... D=17199270 Here is some good reading on Rusty's vs. Motion. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10283

I really don't like the design of the TF unit. I'd be hesitant to run a trackbar that has that sleave on it. Personally I'd rather run a 1 peice unit. I'd also chose a heim joint end any day over a TRE. I'm not crazy about the way the TF unit you can't even replace the TRE.

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=495

What is it with you guys and your skinny tires on stock rims? I've never had an issue with running 12.5" tires on any of my rigs. We ran 10.5" wide tires on Rebecca's XJ for a while on stock rims and I have to say I felt the most uncomfortable I've ever felt in a Jeep during that time. It felt so dang tipsy; even on the road. Bumpstop correctly and 12.5" wide tires will be fine.

I've always been happy with the all metal 3-row CSF's. We've talked about them before on here and I've ran them on several of my rigs thus far with great results. Motion has them with free shipping. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=6_112

Here are some more pics with the "chrome" ones. She's really not a fan of either so I figured I'd get pics why they were on at least. Maybe I'll swap them out with the black ones and get some good pics with those as well. 8)

And how she sits today.

Several new items added to make it more "road friendly". We added a Qickor front swaybar from Motion. AWESOME results! Also added a set of Autopal front headlights from Motion. AWESOME results! We also added a set of Old Man Emu front socks (no pics sorry.) It's very nice to drive on the street now with the low COG and large tires. The swaybar works wonders as well.