LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

I'm not sure off the top of my head what size they were, but I do know they were metric. I ended up getting a grade 8 hardened bolt the correct size (diameter) and cutting it down to length, than just tacking the head in place with the welder.

Here's the same MT springs a little bit cheaper. No mods required either. :D http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_springs/jeep/comancheclub.html Pretty sure he got lift springs, not MT springs...

If you want "wide tire look" you want to go with a lower number backspacing. I would go with a 4" or 3.75" backspacing with a 12.5" wide tire. I don't recall off the top of my head what BS the D-Window's are available in, but it should be either 4" or 3.75". For reference here is some pics (tried to find the best one's I had to show stance). My XJ with 35x12.5x15 with 3.75" BS (ignore wife's XJ, she was only running 31's in that pic) My Wife's XJ with 33x12.5x15 with 4.0" BS.

GLXJ is hosting it's 3rd Annual Fall Crawl on Satruday October 25th at Badlands Offroad Park in Attica Indiana. ALL JEEPS ARE WELCOME!!! Admission to the Badlands is $20 per Jeep, and $5 for each person riding in your Jeep. You can visit the Badlands website at http://www.badlandsoffroad.com To enter the park you also must sign the waiver form. Don't forget to bring your drivers license! Flags ARE required, they can be purchased at the Badlands clubhouse if you do not own one. Also PLEASE have some sort of recovery (either front tow hooks, or rear hitch). Also please bring a tow strap (no hooks, looped both ends). We are planning on meeting at the normal meeting area at 10:00 AM. This is located at the parking lot across from the pond at the BOTTOM of the hill. We are planning on doing things a little different this time as inevitably we always seem to be waiting on someone to show up. Some members drive several hours to be here and are on time; others run into delays getting here. We understand that so were going to give a window. We will meet at 10:00 AM SHARP the 1st time. We will leave to go play for a few hours hitting the rock quarry, sand dunes, etc. for the 1st few hours of the day. If you are late you can find us in the rock quarry. We will than meet up again at the normal spot (parking lot across the pond at the bottom of the hill) at 1:00 PM SHARP for a guided trail ride. If you want to do lunch please do this PRIOR to meeting up at 1:00; we will not be stopping on the trails to break for lunch. We will than finish out the day hitting several trails. For those of you who have not wheeled with us before this is the highlight of the day. So be on time so we don't leave you behind! If you plan on attending please let us know for sure so I can get a head count. Additionally, ANY JEEP's ARE ALLOWED TO WHEEL WITH US (even if not a XJ or MJ). This event is made possible by our sponsors. Be sure to check them out 1st if your looking for a new product or service. Hope to see you there! Adam Hanson GLXJ President

The ZJ, just like the XJ is unibody. You'll need a cage to keep the thing from folding like a taco if you chop the rear.

Wife's XJ since January and she drives it daily (at night) so they get used every day. My XJ I've had them for over a year now. It doesn't get driven as much, but they've held up in both rigs thus far. I'm sold on them....

I run the Autopals and love them. They are like 1/2 the price of the IPF's, or Cibies. Here is my review on them; http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/ind ... D=15250394 Their is info in my review as to where to get them.

Your shocks are upside down. On a hydro shock you want the body of the shock on the bottom. They may last longer if you flip them.

Sorry I have to disagree with you on this. 1997 was the first full year they used 29 spline shafts. 1996 was the change over year. The earlier 96 XJ got 27 splines and the ones built later that year got 29. The 29 spline 8.25 in my XJ came out of a 1996. Just because your 1996 XJ axle was 29 spline does not mean that every 1996 axle is 29 spline. So the "safe" bet is to not even mention a 1996 axle as if you tell someone a 1996 axle is 29 spline; they go buy a 8.25 out of a 96 and it ends up being only a 27 spline. Then they are pi$$ed cause you told them a '96 axle was 29 spline. Most likely the 1996 XJ your 29 spline came out of was one of the last '96 models to come out. They most likely ran out of the 27 spline one's and used the new 29 spline one's still in the older body style. Being that 1996 was the year the most XJ's were made even tell us that they were throwing whatever parts available to them on the available chassis' to move them out the door. I will even venture to say 9 times out of 10 a 1996 8.25" will be 27 spline. I understand that; however by saying to someone "1996 was the changeover year" to mean sounds like your saying all 1996 XJ's with the 8.25" axle were 29 spline. I do realize you added the 2nd part of it clarifying what you meant; which than is ok. However if I was to of said in my original post that "1996 was the changeover year", I would of gotten the same flack from someone saying, "no, not all 1996 XJ's with the 8.25" axle were 29 spline". Typically if someone says a changeover year that means that something is changed ENTIRELY that year on all models; not just applying to some. So what was the changeover year for the new HO 4.0L? Do you say 1990 or 1991? What about the XJ's that were built in 1990 but sold as a 1991 model? See where I am going with this...

Lead not Follow... BTW WTF is your actual name?? You, like me, didn't read the complete post. I also think its a good move, and I said so in my post. I said it would be better if he used a late model. (didn't read '01) I know all about the dimensions of the axle, that's why I said it will LOWER it SUA and RAISE it SOA, its written in my first post. I also pointed out you MUST REWELD perches, in my post.... :roll: Some times I wonder why I give all this information... :roll: ;) Sorry, I DIDNT read you where going SOA and that it was a '01 axle. :oops: :oops: CW No I read it all and noticed your reply was informative; however not the answer that the original poster was looking for based on the info he originally gave us. Well maybe the info was the same, just harder to understand since you were talking about SUA and later model 8.25's when he already stated the info. That's all; nothing more. 8) Please continue with the discussion.... :cheers:

Sorry I have to disagree with you on this. 1997 was the first full year they used 29 spline shafts. 1996 was the change over year. The earlier 96 XJ got 27 splines and the ones built later that year got 29. The 29 spline 8.25 in my XJ came out of a 1996. Just because your 1996 XJ axle was 29 spline does not mean that every 1996 axle is 29 spline. So the "safe" bet is to not even mention a 1996 axle as if you tell someone a 1996 axle is 29 spline; they go buy a 8.25 out of a 96 and it ends up being only a 27 spline. Then they are pi$$ed cause you told them a '96 axle was 29 spline. Most likely the 1996 XJ your 29 spline came out of was one of the last '96 models to come out. They most likely ran out of the 27 spline one's and used the new 29 spline one's still in the older body style. Being that 1996 was the year the most XJ's were made even tell us that they were throwing whatever parts available to them on the available chassis' to move them out the door. I will even venture to say 9 times out of 10 a 1996 8.25" will be 27 spline.

CW I don't mean to always disagree with ya, but I think your incorrect on a few things here... He's going SOA, a 8.25" has a 3" axle tube, wheras a D35 and D44 are aprox 2.75". So going SOA with the 8.25" will get him a 1/4" more lift. Not that it's going to be noticeable but it will lift more; not lower like you said. I think your' still thinking he's talking SUA... He mentioned going with a 8.25" out of a '01 XJ. It will be 29 spline. They made the change from 27 spline to 29 spline in 1997 in the XJ's. Any "facelifted" XJ with a 8.25" will have the larger spline count. The 8.25" is easily converted to disc rear brakes using parts off of a ZJ D35. It's essentially "bolt-on" with just the mounting plates needing to be enlarged. Honestly I think that the 29 spline 8.25" is a better option than the "popular" Ford 8.8". It can be built for less, easily converted to discs, and in my opinion just a strong. But I won't get into what I think about the 8.8" here. :D

I think that the bolt pattern on the mounting is different. So if you reversed one the holes for the studs won't line up with the holes on the body.

Heat it up by either a) laying it in the sun, B) using a hair dryer, or c) using a heat gun. Than put it on; it should stretch better that way and you won't' have a gap.

It's probably the stupid green bushing coming out of the linkage (see pic). You can get replacements in the "self help" section at AutoZone.

Dave, I have a D44 here that is missing parts on the one side. I plan on converting it to discs, so if you need/want the one side that has the parts let me know. Also you'll need 2.75" u-bolts for the D44.

GLXJ Fall Crawl is tentatively scheduled for the weekend of Oct. 25-26 @ the Badlands. (just a FYI) I think I'm gonna try to bring the MJ this time, and Wade says he's gonna try to make it as well...

Factory XJ shackles will lower the rear aprox .5 - .75".

Motion actually replied to your post in regards to it; http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11509 It states on their website they fit SWB MJ's only.

2" square.

Ok back on topic... New Winch... :D

A c-clip eliminator kit can be purchased. It's call the Super 88 kit. It's quite expensive at around $525 (cheapest I've found). It includes 2 new chromoly axle shafts, housings and adaptors, and all the needed hardware. The tube problem can be fixed by welding the tubes to the housing. A lot of people also truss the axle to help eliminate the problem. A 8.8" truss can be purchased from T&T for around $150. Even though that 8.8" has the disc brakes, expect to have to refurb them prior to installing it in your Jeep. The majority of the 8.8" axles found/purchased are from a salvage yard so it's always recommended to refurb them. Expect around $200 in doing this. Also we need to get the axle under the Jeep. MORE sells an 8.8" install kit for $180 (perches, shock mounts, yoke, etc). If you want to use your e-brakes expect to pay another $120 for that kit. The 8.8" diff cover is about as thick as aluminum foil. So a good (and in my opinion needed) upgrade is a new heavy duty diff cover. Expect to pay around $100 for a quality one. Wheel spacers? I'll let you decide if they are needed. I won't factory that into the cost of "upgrades". We haven't even address the fact that it's probably not the same gear ratio as your front D30. So factor in gears. If you've got it all a part you might as well throw a new carrier and locker in there as well. We'll say another $600 minimal for a set of gears and a lunchbox locker. Factor in the original cost of the axle and now you've got a REALLY expensive 8.8. I can build a pretty sick D44 WITH a locker, WITH chromo shafts, and WITH disc brakes for probably half of that money that I can promise you is stronger. Heck I could probably build a budget D60 for less.... OK now I realize I went overboard with cost to build a sick 8.8, and a good portion of guys won't dump that kind of money into one. However I think many things do need to be done to the 8.8 to make it as strong as the D44. I'm just saying I think that the 8.8 is kinda a lost cause and money is better spent dumped into a different axle (like a D44) that is a much better starting point. I think the end result for the same money you'll end up with more with the D44 than you would with the 8.8". Like I said prior, just my opinion....

C-Clip, carrier is known to fail with any amount of power applied in a stress situation, pressed in axle tubes, etc. Some argue that since the 8.8" is a semi-floating axle that the c-clips make a big difference. Some argue that they don't. A semi-floating rear axle is one in which the axle shaft does bear some of the vehicle's weight. So in addition to tortional loads, it is required to stand up to shear loads as well. My opinion is that C-clips do make a difference in axle strength. If the axle isn't a full floater, then the stress is spread out across the axle shaft. The axle shaft rides on the outter bearings at the axle tube end and the side gears. The axle shafts neck down at the c-clip and those can break. (I've seen it happen a lot) The other side of the argument is that the c-clips are located inboard of the splines the c-clip portion of the shaft is not exposed to much (if any) torsional or shear loads. Who's right? I think I've seen more broke c-clip axle's tham not...

Motion one's works with the RK longarms; at least it looks like they will with my current mock-up on my MJ. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=67

Yes it will work. However not the best reviews have been floating around about that kit. I'm not going to start a "bashing" thread here. If you want more info you can do a search. If your looking for "budget" longarms Rock Krawler has a good 3-link setup that many are running with good results. Motion's doing a group buy on them right now; http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/for ... D=20051109