carnuck

Found a NOS stash of MJ AMC 20 rear ends that have been sitting in a pile outback of some guys shed in surrey. Not sure what customs is going to say when I come back with 3 rear ends squatting down the back of the XJ. Says he also has a passenger bedside(not sure if long or short, and a pair of bumpers(fingers crossed they are rear). Apparently these were in shop/building that caught fire(in about 88), everything was written off but these survived so one of the techs kept them and they have been sitting around since. My son was looking for those!

Every NP207 I've had/heard whined

My fuse was melted into the box, but it looked good still.

View from my driveway last week (click to see the vid)

Too wide and wrong side drop in front. Nice and beefy though. Could possibly use the rear with dually rims in single mount

heading down the path of great grandkids soon

I've had that problem when the coolant sensor acted up.

See if you have the switch on your power steering hose that pops RPM up when turning. 2 of mine did and 3 didn't. (same goes with the 12 or so XJs I/family've had)

I already looked into doing this, but missed out on the motor I was going to buy. An LD28 is good as long as you NEVER overheat it! The bell pattern is the same as Zcar so you have auto or stick option. I would run pretty tall gears as it's not a high RPM motor and makes it's best torque in the low band.

Just for future reference, the flexplate or flywheel needs to always match the type of EFI used as well as the trans.

hand grease each cap. Bet you're going to find wear marks on the shaft of the old ones.

Found a '99 in the junkyard with manual windows even. Thinking about an extended cab project this winter.

Lynnwood :cheers:

The YJ hoses are usually cheaper than MJ specific ones too as well as being longer. What's not to like? and the YJ hoses work fine with my 6" lift

That presupposes two things that don't work on the 2000 4.0L: (1) You need to remove a spark plug to feel if #1 is coming up on compression or exhaust; and (2) You have to be able to see the timing marks on the front of the engine. I'm old enough to have grown up with points and condensers and actually setting the timing every time we did a "tune-up." Which, back then, we did every 10,000 miles. I know what the timing marks look like -- and they aren't visible on the 2000 XJ. And I don't feel like fighting the idiot coil rail a second time just to pull ONE spark plug so I can feel for compression while I crank. I was hoping you would tell me that Jeep thought about this and made provision for it. I guess not. I'd say sorry, but I wasn't the engineer at Chrysler who did the design and layout of the 4.0L. I didn't day that this diagnosis would be effortless. This is a Chrysler-made product, afterall. If you remove the aux. fan, you can shine a flashlight at a certain angle and get a glimpse of the timing mark. With the help of a fold-able mirror, it becomes a trivial task. As for determining if the #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression or exhaust stroke...if your alignment hole in the cam sensor looks to be 180 degrees out, then you're most likely on the incorrect stroke - spin the crank around another turn and you'll be there. Chrysler "modified" the layout (I'd use an F word myself)

And the sex is the same as with my ex-wife........................ nun!

The Right Stuff works better than Ultra Black (took me a loooong time to believe that! It worked on the plastic cover of my 4.2L in my Eagle!)

One little caveat to that......YJ's with the 2.5 that have a 904/909 tranny behind them have 23 spline cases. Jeff XJs and MJs with 2.5L too! AND it's a shallow 23 spline, same as full size Jeeps.

http://headbolts.com Found them looking for ones for the AMC Eagle

You guys don't know what a dead spot is until you visit my cabin! nobody gets signal there! (I get Internet and text through a neighbor's signal)

Which route are you going? I almost bought two from the link Harley provided this evening, but didn't know which style I would like to have. Must be an old garage. Federal fire regulations require a fire exit. You can get one of those magnetic bug guards for the smaller doors

When I had air trapped in the return line from the rear valve (before I bypassed it) I had that problem. Loosening the line at the front valve let the air out and they worked again.

Not to mention tearing the hoses loose on such rough offroad areas as speed bumps!

Messed up linkage or low fluid/lack of use

Check the Cherokee listing. Napa did the same goof.